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Infernal .22!!!! I condemn you to hell!!!!

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A $1500 Anschultz with your same skill level will get you the same results. You can't buy knowledge and the ability to apply it. Learn to shoot with what you have. Just set that Rem ammo aside (no matter how much is left) and get a few more brands. Back away from your targets. You are shooting a rifle not a handgun. 10 yards is rediculous rifle range.
Are you a rifle shooter? Is your cheek weld the same shot to shot? Are you resting the rifle and how? How big are your groups? have you shot for groups yet? There are so many factors to consider before you go trying to fix the problem with a scope. Then you got to consider that the scope could compound the problem if it isn't right and then you would have no idea where to start to fix the problem.
 
Why should I back away from my targets? I completely miss paper at 25yds no matter the sight setting, and I have even bench rested the darned thing, and I still miss paper.

No, I think getting a rifle that I know will shoot is the proper course of action. You dont keep :banghead: after you discover that it hurts and doesn't get you any where.
 
Have you shot any groups with it? If it groups, all you need to do is adjust the sights.

If you're in Mountain View, call me and we'll see what we can do with it.
 
WhiteKnight has a decent suggestion. I have one of the Romanian .22s and it shoots pretty well. I had to 'tweak' the magazine lips a bit to get them to feed properly but now it hits pretty much whatever I aim at. It ain't a target model... the barrel is so light I think I've had heavier soda straws, but with a scope on it and using sandbags (I'm old and shaky) I manage to keep all my shots within a 2" circle at 100 yards. I think it cost about $60 at a gunshow.
 
And when you shoot for groups on that BIG sheet of pasteboard, take you one of those free AOHell CDs and trace the oustide circle and the hole in the middle. That way, you'll have a .5" dot for your aiming point. (I do this at 25-50yds too.) Get it on the bench with sandbags. Shoot five rounds. Hold your same sight picture for those five rounds and DO NOT adjust your sights until after you've seen where it grouped. Do this with several brands of ammo and see what hit the best- different rifles eat some loads better than others.
 
What everyone is trying to tell you is that you may have a good shooting rifle, but it's just not sighted in yet. Since none of us are there with you as you shoot we offer suggestions to help out.
First find out what the rifle is capable of doing. Like said above get a large target and shoot for groups. Forget about setting sights right now. Try as many different boxes of .22lr ammp available. Shoot 5 rounds of each box for a group. Solidly bench the rifle when you shoot the groups. Take your time and make precise shots.
To find out the capability of the rifle you have to take as much of YOU out the equation as possible. If you find that there are one or more good groups then it's a matter of sight adjustment to center the group to POA.
If nothing groups then there is a possiblility you have a problem rifle, but you will never know untill YOU are taken out of the equation. Rifles have the ability to be tack drivers, but they can shoot no better than the skill level of the shooter.
 
Some of the old "Gallery guns" were made so that the post (front site) was ment to be above the rear site. I don't know how else to explain this without a drawing, but the site picture would be like the top of the rear and the bracket that holds the post are level and the post sticks up above, then put the post at the center of the bull's eye.
 
Some of the old "Gallery guns"...

I hadn't heard that, but I had heard about some of the old gallery guns having the forward 6" of rifling reamed out so it wouldn't hit worth a flip. :cuss:

Oh, and while you're testing loads for groups, shoot several 5rd groups of each load. Like Majic said, bench it solid and take as much of yourself out of the equation as you can. And take your time and forget about having been flustered. You'll need to breath and relax and gently squeeze the trigger. Jerk it and you won't know whether it was you or the gun having the problem.
 
something nobody has mentioned

Not one person has mentioned inspecting the firearm.

Especially, check the crown of your rifle and see if you have pitted rusted and or nicked rifling. Damaged rifling could make it so that no amount of "silly putty" :rolleyes: on the front site could help.

Also is your bore warped? This happens to guns every day. Poor storage is usually to blame.

Make sure all your screws are tight and that the barrel is firmly attached to the reciever(hey I have seen some bizzare stuff before).

have the gun checked by a competent gunsmith, then break out the "play-doh"


Personally I like the big sheet of cardboard and the cd target template ideas.

-bevr
 
It has been stored for about 20 years in a gun rack. The barrel was resting on one side, the other, the stock. The crown is pitted, but I dont see it being a problem as it doesnt look like it has affected the rifling. The bluing has been warn off where the felt-lining of the horizontal-storage gunrack touched the barrel.


It has basically been a hatrack for 20yrs.
 
20 years in a horizontal rack

could be your problem right there. Gravity will warp a barrel in that much time easy. Especially if it was hangin the way you said it was.

Vern is right though. If you can get a tight group you can fix the sights.

My opinion on that though is when a warped barrel heats up it will change the point of impact much more than when a straight barrel heats up. But hey maybe not.

I have much more to learn than I know.

-bevr
 
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