Linotype ?

[savagelover]

What is the advantage of using linotype for 357 when other alloy is just as good. I see it mentioned in the Lyman reloading manual for several of their 357 bullets. My alloy is a bhn of approximately 10/12 with no leading problems. Thanks..

 

[Targa]

Good question. I have used linotype to harden my wheel weights or range lead but can’t see a reason to use it straight other than loading for high power rifle applications which at that point I am just buying jacketed bullets to reload.

 

[Walkalong]

Don’t waste good linotype, save it for hardening alloys when you truly need something harder.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

What is the advantage of using linotype for 357 when other alloy is just as good. I see it mentioned in the Lyman reloading manual for several of their 357 bullets. My alloy is a bhn of approximately 10/12 with no leading problems. Thanks..

It punches through bone and gristle without mushrooming or fracturing. Linotype will shatter on some kinds of really hard object, including bone, but it's less likely to be stopped or deflected IF you keep the speed up and have a right kind of ogive/nose profile.

 

[AJC1]

If your shooting traditional lubed bullets you may need it to harden your mix at max loads. I'd use it in rifle bullets....

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Don’t waste good linotype, save it for hardening alloys when you truly need something harder.

I agree... If it ain't broken don't fix it. You already have an alloy which doesn't lead the barrel, stick with it.

BTW, bullet fit is much more important than alloy hardness. Many times when a bullet leads the barrel it is either a bad fit or it's too hard. Of course softer bullets can lead a barrel but too hard is much too often overlooked.

Like I said, if it ain't broken don't fix it...

 

[.38 Special]

Linotype almost belongs in the handloading museum. It used to be easy and cheap, but - like wheel weights - has become a lot more effort these days. For a fellow who has access to lino, it still can be useful for alloying with pure lead, to make a somewhat hardened metal that works in a variety of applications. It also is very helpful to the fellow looking for increased strength/hardness through water quenching and/or heat treating (linotype contains antimony, which is critical for those esoteric pursuits).

Most of us, these days, have to go out of our way to get linotype. Unless a fellow is trying for something unusual - dangerous game bullets, rifle bullets, etc. - it's hard to see why we would. I buy pure lead whenever I can find a deal on it (and foundry lead when I have no other options) and keep a few bars of tin around. That is all I need for bullets from muzzleloader to full-throttle .500 Magnum, and I see no reason to complicate matters.

 

[243winxb]

Linotype is used mostly as an enrichment alloy. I have tested Rotometals Linotype in 45 acp to 44 mag. Makes great bullets, but harder then needed.

The 11% antimony in linotype increases as cast bullet diameters. When as cast bullets are undersize, add a little linotype.

Lee molds are regulated with 10-1 lead tin mix.
Lyman used #2 when I started casting.
One custom mold maker uses WW.

 

[mdi]

For some reason, newer casters believe, or are lead to believe, harder is better. Most commercial cast bullets run 18 plus BHN. My Mystery Metal runs about 11-12 BHN and works well for all my cast handgun boolits. Any linotype I use is for mixing with soft or pure lead...