tipoc
Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,563
Awhile back I picked up a J frame S&W M640. The gun had been built by the S&W Performance Center not long after it began producing guns for sale with it's own logo on them in the early 90s. California based gunsmith John French had been working with the Centennial type guns for awhile and came up with some concepts which the Performance Center borrowed and implemented in a gun it called the Carry Comp. This gun which shipped from S&W 6-8-91 is one of them, sn PCA02xx.
The Carry Comp was set up to handle the hottest 38 Spl.+P and +P+ loads. It comes with a 2 5/8" barrel of which 3/8" is a compensator. The compensator is designed to reduce muzzle flip. You can see it in the pic below.
The trigger on this gun is quite smooth. The gun very well tuned. The tolerances close. I'll return to this point later.
One advantage of the additional barrel length is that a longer ejector rod is possible than it's shorter barreled brethren have. This is a plus for positive ejection of the spent cases.
As I expected I found that the smooth rosewood stocks that came on the gun were useless to me in actual shooting so I tried them with a set of Tyler T grips which usually help on my Smiths. They usually help if the stocks are checkered though. With this little J frame they did not help enough as the gun slipped in my hand under recoil so I dug out a set of Hogue Bantam grips, which I keep on hand for just such times, and they work well enough till I get something better.
When I pick up a new handgun I try to evaluate it over several trips to the range and using a variety of drills as well as some shooting for accuracy.
For me J frames are more difficult to shoot well than their larger kin. I'm only OK with them. The distance between the back strap and the trigger is shorter and the firing system prevents as smooth or as light a da pull as can be had on a K, L or N frame. I'd choose the larger K,L or N frames if I knew I was likely to need a gun and anticipating a fight. I consider the J frames as back up guns or the choice for when a more useful sidearm cannot be carried.
One of the drills I do is to set a target about 7-8 yards downrange. I'll sometimes tape a piece of colored paper to it that is about 5x4". In this case I use this type target(though I think the center area here is a bit lower than it should be). The center light blue area is 5 1/2x4". Any round outside of that area is a miss. From the low ready, using a two hand hold, I aim, take one shot and return it to low ready. One shot per second from low ready to pulling the trigger.
The results of this drill are below. Just past 7 yards with Rem. 158 gr. LRN. An old police load. 25 rounds fired.
Another variation of the same drill adds a double tap, rather than one shot. Given the 5 rounds in a J frame I take two double taps and one solitary shot. I'll take about half two handed and mix in strong hand only and weak hand only, about evenly into the mix. Again anything outside the 5 1/2x4" area I consider a miss.
Below was shot with Rem 158 gr. LRN ammo and some Federal Nyclad 125 gr. +P loads. 50 rounds, double taps, from low ready 2 rounds in 1-2 seconds. I took a couple shots at the head here which I usually don't do.
Another speed drill is a variation of the Higgenbottom drill. In this case I aim to place 5 rounds in two seconds from the low ready in that center area. Weaver stance, some 125 gr. +P SJHP reloads were used.
The intention of the speed drills is not to empty a gun quickly. I try to concentrate on each cylinder full. On obtaining a fast "flash sight" picture. I concentrate on quick fumble free reloads. If I fumble it, I stop and begin again. I take a break for a minute or so after a couple of cylinders. Again the intent her is to place as many round as I can in the 4x5 center space out side that is a miss.
At 4 yards and under I'd point shoot. At 7-8 yards and beyond the sights are used.
The Centennial has an internal hammer and obviously no single action capability. While there are some shooters who can shoot a j frame accurately at distance da I don't consider myself one of them. About the best I can do so far is about 4-5" groups at 10-15 yards in aimed fire while standing on my own feet. I'm a bit better in sa.
I was out to the range today. I was there mostly to work with a couple of 1911s at the 25 yards line and when I was done with those I stopped by the 15 yard line with the M640. I'd been shooting for an hour already so was a bit worn. I also had only two types of 38 with me.
First off was some 125 gr. SJHP +P from Mi-Wall the 640 at 15 yards from a rest. 20 rounds were fired.
The fixed sights are regulated for a 158 gr. load as most all .38s are. My point of aim was a 6 o'clock one useing the thicker bottom bar of my hand drawn 3x3 box. My first 5 rounds went low and I tossed one just off the bottom of the pic. I adjusted my aiming point to the top bar and my group raised a bit. This was a first time effort at shooting this gun from a rest and I played with my grip some. The gun and the bullets are more accurate than I am.
The 158 gr. Speer Lawman 38 Spl. +P TMJ round shot exactly to point of aim a 15 yards. I expected it would. The first 5 rounds were just above 2". It would have impressed more folks if I'da stopped there.
Either the gun or I preferred this round or it may have been I settled down in my grip some. My own tendency to flinch, or to pull the shots on this small gun some, is also a factor in the above groups. But with the right ammo the gun can provide adequate accuracy for the task.
As I said I shoot a larger handgun some better but in the hands of a better shooter than I am the gun can produce the accuracy you can expect for it's task. The strength of the J frame snubby is in it's small size and light weight which also limit it's usefulness.
I put a gun through these drills and others so that I can learn both the guns limits and my own. They also allow me to improve some.
tipoc
The Carry Comp was set up to handle the hottest 38 Spl.+P and +P+ loads. It comes with a 2 5/8" barrel of which 3/8" is a compensator. The compensator is designed to reduce muzzle flip. You can see it in the pic below.
The trigger on this gun is quite smooth. The gun very well tuned. The tolerances close. I'll return to this point later.
One advantage of the additional barrel length is that a longer ejector rod is possible than it's shorter barreled brethren have. This is a plus for positive ejection of the spent cases.
As I expected I found that the smooth rosewood stocks that came on the gun were useless to me in actual shooting so I tried them with a set of Tyler T grips which usually help on my Smiths. They usually help if the stocks are checkered though. With this little J frame they did not help enough as the gun slipped in my hand under recoil so I dug out a set of Hogue Bantam grips, which I keep on hand for just such times, and they work well enough till I get something better.
When I pick up a new handgun I try to evaluate it over several trips to the range and using a variety of drills as well as some shooting for accuracy.
For me J frames are more difficult to shoot well than their larger kin. I'm only OK with them. The distance between the back strap and the trigger is shorter and the firing system prevents as smooth or as light a da pull as can be had on a K, L or N frame. I'd choose the larger K,L or N frames if I knew I was likely to need a gun and anticipating a fight. I consider the J frames as back up guns or the choice for when a more useful sidearm cannot be carried.
One of the drills I do is to set a target about 7-8 yards downrange. I'll sometimes tape a piece of colored paper to it that is about 5x4". In this case I use this type target(though I think the center area here is a bit lower than it should be). The center light blue area is 5 1/2x4". Any round outside of that area is a miss. From the low ready, using a two hand hold, I aim, take one shot and return it to low ready. One shot per second from low ready to pulling the trigger.
The results of this drill are below. Just past 7 yards with Rem. 158 gr. LRN. An old police load. 25 rounds fired.
Another variation of the same drill adds a double tap, rather than one shot. Given the 5 rounds in a J frame I take two double taps and one solitary shot. I'll take about half two handed and mix in strong hand only and weak hand only, about evenly into the mix. Again anything outside the 5 1/2x4" area I consider a miss.
Below was shot with Rem 158 gr. LRN ammo and some Federal Nyclad 125 gr. +P loads. 50 rounds, double taps, from low ready 2 rounds in 1-2 seconds. I took a couple shots at the head here which I usually don't do.
Another speed drill is a variation of the Higgenbottom drill. In this case I aim to place 5 rounds in two seconds from the low ready in that center area. Weaver stance, some 125 gr. +P SJHP reloads were used.
The intention of the speed drills is not to empty a gun quickly. I try to concentrate on each cylinder full. On obtaining a fast "flash sight" picture. I concentrate on quick fumble free reloads. If I fumble it, I stop and begin again. I take a break for a minute or so after a couple of cylinders. Again the intent her is to place as many round as I can in the 4x5 center space out side that is a miss.
At 4 yards and under I'd point shoot. At 7-8 yards and beyond the sights are used.
The Centennial has an internal hammer and obviously no single action capability. While there are some shooters who can shoot a j frame accurately at distance da I don't consider myself one of them. About the best I can do so far is about 4-5" groups at 10-15 yards in aimed fire while standing on my own feet. I'm a bit better in sa.
I was out to the range today. I was there mostly to work with a couple of 1911s at the 25 yards line and when I was done with those I stopped by the 15 yard line with the M640. I'd been shooting for an hour already so was a bit worn. I also had only two types of 38 with me.
First off was some 125 gr. SJHP +P from Mi-Wall the 640 at 15 yards from a rest. 20 rounds were fired.
The fixed sights are regulated for a 158 gr. load as most all .38s are. My point of aim was a 6 o'clock one useing the thicker bottom bar of my hand drawn 3x3 box. My first 5 rounds went low and I tossed one just off the bottom of the pic. I adjusted my aiming point to the top bar and my group raised a bit. This was a first time effort at shooting this gun from a rest and I played with my grip some. The gun and the bullets are more accurate than I am.
The 158 gr. Speer Lawman 38 Spl. +P TMJ round shot exactly to point of aim a 15 yards. I expected it would. The first 5 rounds were just above 2". It would have impressed more folks if I'da stopped there.
Either the gun or I preferred this round or it may have been I settled down in my grip some. My own tendency to flinch, or to pull the shots on this small gun some, is also a factor in the above groups. But with the right ammo the gun can provide adequate accuracy for the task.
As I said I shoot a larger handgun some better but in the hands of a better shooter than I am the gun can produce the accuracy you can expect for it's task. The strength of the J frame snubby is in it's small size and light weight which also limit it's usefulness.
I put a gun through these drills and others so that I can learn both the guns limits and my own. They also allow me to improve some.
tipoc
Last edited:
