My Effort at Putting a Sling on a Marlin 60

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Swifty Morgan

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Seems like I always get bitten in the butt when I buy guns. I got a Nylon 66 when I was 12, and years later, I found out it was not possible to scope it and get a reliable zero. I bought a Marlin 60 recently, and then I found out it had a heinous trigger, a problem with high-power .22 cartridges, and a design that made it hard to install a sling!

I just put an MCarbo trigger and recoil spring in it, so I assume my problems with the trigger and ammunition selection are over. Today I had to figure out what to do about a sling.

I read a bunch of threads on various forums, and I thought the solutions were pretty bad. You can buy a sling that attaches to the tube magazine. I thought that was a recipe for a bent magazine. Some people stuck some kind of T-nut in the stock. That looked somewhat better.

I decided to try something else, and it worked, so I will share it. No photos until tomorrow.

I bought a typical stud set. The buttstock screw is a wood screw. No problem there. The forward stud is a machine screw. It's about 0.190" in diameter, and it has a round knurled nut about 3/8" in diameter that goes inside the stock. It won't fit in a Marlin 60 stock, because the nut and the end of the screw would be in the magazine's space.

I took a belt grinder and ground the nut down until it was around 3/16" high. Most of the nut was superfluous. A nut only has to be about 1 screw-width wide in order to work. I kept the knurling and ground both ends of the nut.

I got a 3/8" Forstner bit and stuck it inside the stock, to make a cavity to hold the nut. It wouldn't fit well enough to permit the use of a drill at first, because the groove in the stock is U-shaped at the bottom. I stuck the point of the bit into the wood to anchor it, and I turned it by hand until it cut the sides of the inside of the stock to the point where the bit rested flat on the wood. This put the point into the wood, which would hold the bit in place during drilling.

After that, I put the bit in a drill and drilled a cavity just deep enough to sink the nut completely. I went slowly and stopped often to measure.

When I was done, the nut fit into the hole and did not protrude into the magazine space. I took a drill bit about 0.195" in diameter (I forget the exact size) and drilled down through the Forstner hole, through the stock (for the machine screw). I put the stock against a piece of waste wood with paper towels underneath to keep the wood from scratching the stock. This kept the wood on the underside of the stock from tearing out when the bit emerged.

This gave me a perfectly centered hole on the outside of the stock for the machine screw.

I put the screw in the hole, put the nut in the cavity I had made, and tightened the screw in the nut. It tightens fine without epoxy or Titebond or anything. I didn't need pliers or any other aid. It fits great. I have about 1/4" of wood between the nut and the outside of the stock, so there should be plenty of wood to hold the stud, even if I wrap the sling around my arm to shoot.

Tomorrow I have to grind the screw down and make it shorter, because it protrudes past the nut. This will take only a few minutes.

I have high hopes that this fix will last, and it will not bother my magazine at all. It came out well. No significant bubbation of the stock, even when viewed from inside.

Comments welcome. I'm hoping this will be helpful to other people. It was very easy and requires few tools. The Forstner bit is probably available on Amazon for 5 bucks. If you don't have a belt grinder or belt sander, you can use files and/or stones. A bench grinder would work. Even a Dremel would work to grind the metal.

I have some very nice machine tools, but I moved last year, and they haven't caught up with me. This is why I did it the caveman way.

I'm pretty excited about the gun. It shoots great, the trigger is a pleasure to use, and now I can use a sling. With the cheesy Bushnell rimfire scope and the UTG mount, it's about a $300 .22, but I think it's worth it.
 
I have some photos. The thing that surprises me is that installing the rear stud is also a pain. It's straightforward, but I have to counterbore it, and I don't have a 7/16" Forstner or brad bit to do that.

The instructions say to counterbore it 1/4", but it seems like the stud would be nearly buried in the stock.
 

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Seems like I always get bitten in the butt when I buy guns. I got a Nylon 66 when I was 12, and years later, I found out it was not possible to scope it and get a reliable zero. I bought a Marlin 60 recently, and then I found out it had a heinous trigger, a problem with high-power .22 cartridges, and a design that made it hard to install a sling!

I just put an MCarbo trigger and recoil spring in it, so I assume my problems with the trigger and ammunition selection are over. Today I had to figure out what to do about a sling.

I read a bunch of threads on various forums, and I thought the solutions were pretty bad. You can buy a sling that attaches to the tube magazine. I thought that was a recipe for a bent magazine. Some people stuck some kind of T-nut in the stock. That looked somewhat better.

I decided to try something else, and it worked, so I will share it. No photos until tomorrow.

I bought a typical stud set. The buttstock screw is a wood screw. No problem there. The forward stud is a machine screw. It's about 0.190" in diameter, and it has a round knurled nut about 3/8" in diameter that goes inside the stock. It won't fit in a Marlin 60 stock, because the nut and the end of the screw would be in the magazine's space.

I took a belt grinder and ground the nut down until it was around 3/16" high. Most of the nut was superfluous. A nut only has to be about 1 screw-width wide in order to work. I kept the knurling and ground both ends of the nut.

I got a 3/8" Forstner bit and stuck it inside the stock, to make a cavity to hold the nut. It wouldn't fit well enough to permit the use of a drill at first, because the groove in the stock is U-shaped at the bottom. I stuck the point of the bit into the wood to anchor it, and I turned it by hand until it cut the sides of the inside of the stock to the point where the bit rested flat on the wood. This put the point into the wood, which would hold the bit in place during drilling.

After that, I put the bit in a drill and drilled a cavity just deep enough to sink the nut completely. I went slowly and stopped often to measure.

When I was done, the nut fit into the hole and did not protrude into the magazine space. I took a drill bit about 0.195" in diameter (I forget the exact size) and drilled down through the Forstner hole, through the stock (for the machine screw). I put the stock against a piece of waste wood with paper towels underneath to keep the wood from scratching the stock. This kept the wood on the underside of the stock from tearing out when the bit emerged.

This gave me a perfectly centered hole on the outside of the stock for the machine screw.

I put the screw in the hole, put the nut in the cavity I had made, and tightened the screw in the nut. It tightens fine without epoxy or Titebond or anything. I didn't need pliers or any other aid. It fits great. I have about 1/4" of wood between the nut and the outside of the stock, so there should be plenty of wood to hold the stud, even if I wrap the sling around my arm to shoot.

Tomorrow I have to grind the screw down and make it shorter, because it protrudes past the nut. This will take only a few minutes.

I have high hopes that this fix will last, and it will not bother my magazine at all. It came out well. No significant bubbation of the stock, even when viewed from inside.

Comments welcome. I'm hoping this will be helpful to other people. It was very easy and requires few tools. The Forstner bit is probably available on Amazon for 5 bucks. If you don't have a belt grinder or belt sander, you can use files and/or stones. A bench grinder would work. Even a Dremel would work to grind the metal.

I have some very nice machine tools, but I moved last year, and they haven't caught up with me. This is why I did it the caveman way.

I'm pretty excited about the gun. It shoots great, the trigger is a pleasure to use, and now I can use a sling. With the cheesy Bushnell rimfire scope and the UTG mount, it's about a $300 .22, but I think it's worth it.

LOL, I paracorded the sling on my DDM4 ... I'm sure yours will be better ...

unnamed1_zpsee736fb4.jpg
 
I have some photos. The thing that surprises me is that installing the rear stud is also a pain. It's straightforward, but I have to counterbore it, and I don't have a 7/16" Forstner or brad bit to do that.

The instructions say to counterbore it 1/4", but it seems like the stud would be nearly buried in the stock.

looks great!
 
I misunderstood the directions on the stud package. I thought I had to sink the rear stud into the buttstock, but the directions only called for me to make the hole bigger at the top. I did it, and it worked.

This wood is very chippy. I took a round Proxxon (like a Dremel) stone and chamfered the initial 5/32" hole because I knew it was likely to tear when the 7/32" bit went in after it, and it tore a little anyway. Frustrating, because I took extraordinary measures to prevent it. I knew the wood was chippy because I tried a sharp, expensive countersink on it earlier, and I got tearing. I should have done the entire counterbore with the Proxxon stone.

If you look at the installed stud very closely, you can see a miniscule area where there is an issue. I may go full-tilt anal retentive on it and put a couple of milligrams of wood filler on it and stain it with a filler pencil, but other than that, it came out very well.

I wonder if they use some kind of Chinese wood which is hard to work these days.

I can make it perfect later, and I probably will.

I should add that I drilled the through-hole for the front stud with a small drill before going to full-size. That will help anyone else who does this job, and I should have added it earlier. This wood will do its best to tear if you're not careful.
 

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After doing 20 or 30 of them, you get better......

I would have got the tube clamp kit; you have an infinite number of places to set the front mount.....just sayin'
 
I have done the recessed nut deal inside of a stock, and I like that option. Yes a forstner bit is the way to go, specifically a pair of them in the same size. They come in 2 distinct varieties, with 1 point in the center, or with 3 points, one center and one on the wing tips. Use the wing variety to start your hole because it takes off very little at a time and is easier to keep centered. Once you are down to bare wood with your area between the points swap to the other variety. Using a drill press makes this much much much easier and usually yields better results.

Been there, done that, but the hole started by hand is a nice touch albeit a very aggravatingly slow process I would imagine. Never miss a good chance to justify another tool, and never procrastinate on buying tools. Once you learn it and use it your capabilities explode until you get limited by hardware which means you need more tools. Tools can build guns ya know...
 
My mill and lathe are 300 miles away!

I don't like the tube-clamp studs. I don't want to apply force to a flimsy magazine.
 
After considering how to sling the model 60s I own, I went a different route. I found the internals for an old model 70 series magizine feed rifle installed them and eliminated the tube feed thing and the hard to affix a sling mount. It now has an 1 1/4 front sling that uses a number 8 machine screw nutted up in the old tube channel
 
You did a great job but nothing new. The swivel set you used is suppose to be inleted into the barrel channel just as you did. It's for forends that don't have enough wood thickness to safely screw a screw thread stud into and have it hold. I used the same one back in the 70's on my Rem 581. Slim, thin forend. I did epoxy the nut in for extra strength. Last thing I wanted is a pull out and splinter the wood around the hole after all the nice work. I suggest you do to just in case.:thumbup:
 
I’ve done a lot of customer stuff installs very similar to what you did here - that’s a bread and butter job.

But I also remind myself, one of my personal Marlins has a wood screw shanked swivel stud (same as what you used for the rear stud) ran through the forend and ground flush in the channel, just as you did here, which has covered thousands upon thousands of miles of creeks over my shoulder for the last 25+ years...
 
I’ve done a lot of customer stuff installs very similar to what you did here - that’s a bread and butter job.

But I also remind myself, one of my personal Marlins has a wood screw shanked swivel stud (same as what you used for the rear stud) ran through the forend and ground flush in the channel, just as you did here, which has covered thousands upon thousands of miles of creeks over my shoulder for the last 25+ years...
Yeah but what if you have to use it to swing over one of those creeks?;)
 
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