New Gun Safe..will not open..???

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onionring

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just got a new gun safe….I know it not the best around but it was what I could afford and I got a great deal on it…anyways it is a Winchester gun safe..24 guns capacity…ha..ha..I bought it at Tractor Supply…it was on sale with $150.00 off…I brought it home and took it out of the box…added the battery and followed the directions….used combo 123456..beeped twice..rotated the knob…no luck..check the battery..it seemed weak so I bought a new one….connected it same thing..door stayed locked..not sure what to do…

IT'S A BRAND NEW SAFE..IT HAS NEVER BEEN OPENED..!!!

Must tell you...when I picked it up the TSC the guy was trying laying the safe down on it's back so I could slide it off my truck when I got it home..anyways the strap slipped off the fork lift and the safe dropped to the floor..it was about 12" off the floor, but one edge was on the floor..it was angled…wondering if this did something inside….it was still wrapped..

I also have in and out play in the locked door…I think I read somewhere you can adjust this once the safe is open…..

Any advise would be helpful…oh I do work part time at TSC so this might help me…wondering if I should call Winchester or Granite Safe….just asked for a new safe..
 
call the safes maker and see if they have a idea that could help followed by testing the company's return policy !!
 
I have a right handed safe and you pull the handle up instead of down. Might try that.
 
i'd call tractor supply and see what they can do,otherwise i'd tell them to come swap it out as it is defective.
of course just another reason electronic locks suck
pete
 
One possibility is the fireproof material in the door has come loose and jammed the door operating mechanism.

Call the manufacturer.

One option they will do is drill the box at the locking pins and drive them back.

Another option is you demand a new safe.

A third option, it is something else but still call the manufacturer.

I had a similar issue with another brand of safe from a different store, but it was loaded on my trailer to sit on its back and I guess the fire proof material vibrated loose on the way home, at least the folks that manufactured my safe.

Note, when you call the manufacturer, they have a hard time believing the safe was never opened.
 
Been trying several things that I have read on other websites..nothing seems to work…I am going to call Winchester to see what happens..OR I will see my TSC boss and get a new one…seems like they should come good for it….like I mention I do work at TSC…dam I haven't even got the directions or handle parts out of the safe…ha…ha..forgot to mention it is the Winchester 24 gun safe…sold for $699.00..got it for $549.00...weighs 505 lbs…it was a pain to get in the house…One thing that I keep on thinking...wondering when it was dropped it on it's back that it messed something up inside…since the electronic lock does beep twice so the combo is identified…just does not open..:confused:
 
CFULLGRAF...If that is true.. then this must be my issue…when it was dropped on it's back the fireproof material has shifted..thus jamming the internal locking devices...seems like a good issue for TSC..as far as the lock it is working..thanks for all the input…will let you know how I make out...
 
I have a sticker on my front door that states..DO NOT INSTALL BATTERY SAFE WILL NOT LOCK SAFE HAS A TEMPORARY DISPLAY LOCK OVERRIDE INSTALLED AND IS USED FOR DISPLAY ONLY..

So if I'm reading this correctly the door should of been opened or unlocked…this would further explain that something is up inside the door area jamming something..?? …..

or did I screw up installing the battery
 
A dropped safe usually equals a fired relock, which equals a drill job to open. The Winchester safes do indeed have a screw in the door that prevents the safe from locking until it has been removed. If you're turning the handle back and forth and hearing a metal to metal clunk, it's the relocker. The boltwork will not travel far enough to allow the lock to lock until the screw is removed.
 
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Ok called Winchester yesterday..it was Tues…Monday they were closed due to the ice storm…Talked to a pleasant woman..she explained to me several steps to open the safe…one was to turn the handle with pressure counterclockwise and then insert the 123456 combo…no luck…anyways after several different methods she told me to take the safe back to Tractor Supply and get a new one…I guess when the safe was dropped it's backside it fired the relocker and the safe is LOCKED OUT…Will see what happens…I'm sure TSC will take care of it…just a pain for me to take it back and bring another one home…I should get TSC to do it...
 
Make sure your replacement opens before they load it on the truck. After you have verified that it does, don't take your eyes off of it between then and the time it's loaded. That way you know it will work once you get it home.
 
Finally went to TSC..talked to the manager…told him what I was told by Winchester and he got on the computer and ordered me a new one right off..…told him I would bring the one home back..he told me to keep it home until the other one is in and he would send 2 team members over and help me load it…the they would help me with the new one…overall things worked out…will keep you posted….
 
BTW, if anyone is looking for a safe in the future check out www.raise.com you can buy gift cards to stores for 5%-15% off, you can even print the certificate at home and take it to the store (no waiting for it to get mailed).

I did this and got that $700 Winchester safe that was on sale for $550 for $484 that way.

:)
 
CFULLGRAF...If that is true.. then this must be my issue…when it was dropped on it's back the fireproof material has shifted..thus jamming the internal locking devices...seems like a good issue for TSC..as far as the lock it is working..thanks for all the input…will let you know how I make out...

Except for the time spent, it looks like you have gotten a good solution. Make sure the new safe opens before the Tractor Supply folks leave.

Since you are getting a new safe, it is moot as to what the problem actually was.

In my case, the manufacturer sent out a technician to try and open the safe. A hole was drilled in the side of the body which enabled the technician to drive the locking lugs back. The technician could tell that the re-lock had not been tripped. We disassembled the interior of the door which is how we found the problem with the fireproofing material.

I taped the material back into place with 100mph tape, the technician welded up the hole and I was back in business.

The safe company did offer a new safe but after the technician got mine open, i elected to keep it.

Hearing the technician's stories on opening safes, not just gun safes but real safes as well, was enlightening.
 
I have seen a safe drilled out. You REALLY want to avoid this if you can. The one I watched took two days of drilling to get through the inner layers of metal.
 
I have seen a safe drilled out. You REALLY want to avoid this if you can. The one I watched took two days of drilling to get through the inner layers of metal.

Most gun safes can be drilled in less than 10 minutes. Not the end of the world, but still something you would want to avoid if possible.
 
"New Gun Safe..will not open..."

Nasty thought: That is why you got it cheap.

Jim
 
Got the new safe..received it Jan 2nd…TSC had to order a new one for me..this one worked great…I guess you cannot drop a safe or it will lock you out. TSC took care of me…overall it was them who dropped it. I just added a power box in it so I can hook up my Feelux lamps inside..the added light will look good inside. Overall it is a nice safe..not the best but it was what I could afford at the time.
 
Glad to hear it!

This makes me wonder: if there was a major earthquake, would a bolted down safe be shaken up enough that it could not be opened by the owner? Considering that after such an event is the very time the owner may need to access the contents, this is an important question. Safe experts?
 
The relocker on both my safes ,a cannon and a Ft. Knox, is designed to fire if the locking solenoid is disturbed as in an attempted punch out. I don't think it will go off from shaking. I have also discovered it easy to remove if want to transport your safe on its back locked. Better to leave safe unlocked while on back. I learned all this by replacing the original dial lock with an electronic one. Wife was pitching a fit she couldn't get in half the time.
 
The relocker on both my safes ,a cannon and a Ft. Knox, is designed to fire if the locking solenoid is disturbed as in an attempted punch out. I don't think it will go off from shaking.

From shaking? Likely not. From the sudden shock that comes from being dropped or flipped over? Very possible.

A safe has no way of knowing if that hard hit is coming from a sledge hammer, or it just hit the floor.
 
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