loadedround
Member
Why hasn't anyone questioned case length? Are these previously fired cases that need to be trimmed to original OAL? Just on more thing to check out since the same thing happened to me in a 30-06 bolt action rifle a few years ago.
New problem I've never seen before.
- Thread starter slowr1der
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I think that's what it's going to be. As for case length, the cases have been properly full length resized and trimmed to the recommended length, so that's not an issue. The cases chamber fine, it was just an issue with using that bullet I guess.
Innovative
Member
There really is a better way ...
It's best to not "guess" when reloading. If you can take accurate measurements, you'll always be able to see what the problem is.
Felt tip markers, paper clips, soot from candles, and scotch tape are not generally considered to be the best way to go. Sometimes rickety methoods of measuring things doesn't provide the accurate information that you might think.
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It's best to not "guess" when reloading. If you can take accurate measurements, you'll always be able to see what the problem is.
Felt tip markers, paper clips, soot from candles, and scotch tape are not generally considered to be the best way to go. Sometimes rickety methoods of measuring things doesn't provide the accurate information that you might think.
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While I would like to get one of the tools to measure it, when I'm blackening the bullet and can clearly see marks from the lands on it, it tells me that the bullet is touching the lands and needs to be seated deeper. How deep is safe to seat it is what was curious about, and measuring the gun, or the round better isn't going to tell me this. It got to the point where I was having to seat them a lot deeper than I was comfortable with to keep the bullet from touching the lands. I just wasn't at all comfortable with this, where as the Noslers that have a different profile could be seated at SAAMI specs and still not touch the lands. That made me feel a lot better about it That seating something quite a bit deeper than their minimum recommended length. So maybe I should have said, it's an issue with that particular bullet profile, and not put an "I guess" at the end.
Innovative
Member
slowrider .......
I have a good article on my website that explains "finding the best OAL" for your rifle. As you say, the OAL is different when you use a bullet with a different profile. You're right, chamber pressure is affected by seating depth, and that's why the OAL is always listed whenever you see published loads.
The specific OAL is also listed to ensure reliable feeding in most actions. Seating rifle bullets deeper is very different (almost the opposite) from seating pistol bullets deeper. Your chamber pressure is usually reduced considerably with rifle calibers. Keep an eye on your primers, and you'll always see when your chamber pressure starts going up.
A good rule of thumb is to make sure your bullet surface is grasped (by the case) at least as much as the diameter of the caliber you're reloading. The nice thing about finding the "exact" seating depth, is that each bullet type often provides its best accuracy improvement at a particular depth, and there's no extra cost for that.
I have a good article on my website that explains "finding the best OAL" for your rifle. As you say, the OAL is different when you use a bullet with a different profile. You're right, chamber pressure is affected by seating depth, and that's why the OAL is always listed whenever you see published loads.
The specific OAL is also listed to ensure reliable feeding in most actions. Seating rifle bullets deeper is very different (almost the opposite) from seating pistol bullets deeper. Your chamber pressure is usually reduced considerably with rifle calibers. Keep an eye on your primers, and you'll always see when your chamber pressure starts going up.
A good rule of thumb is to make sure your bullet surface is grasped (by the case) at least as much as the diameter of the caliber you're reloading. The nice thing about finding the "exact" seating depth, is that each bullet type often provides its best accuracy improvement at a particular depth, and there's no extra cost for that.
If you didn't see engaving marks (and I didn't see any in your pictures), you never hit the rifling.
Rifling marks are unmistakable.
That said, Hornadys have an awfully short ogive radius that might hide classic rifling marks.
Lets look at other issues:
First: Have you tried to chamber multiple empty/resized cases to make sure the cases chamber easily, and the only variable is the bullet being introduced into the equation?
Second: Forget the OAL in the manual.
Third: Forget the "bullet in the case/close the bolt" method to determine OAL.
Fourth: At a minimum, use the cleaning rod method to determine true distance-to-lands for your rifle.
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Cleaning Rod Method:
Gently push a bare bullet into the chamber and up against the rifling using a wooden dowel. Use a cleaning rod from the muzzle to slightly push the bullet back & forth on-again/off-gain from the rifling against the dowel. when satisfied that the bullet is just barely contacting the rifling, mark the cleaning rod w/ a razor blade right at the muzzle.
A good starting point for OAL is then an assembled cartridge 20-30 thousandths shorter than that -- i.e, the cleaning rod will sink deeper into the barrel by the diameter of a small paperclip before the bullet stops it.
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Out of curiosity, what rifle is causing this problem?
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Captaingyro
Member
A chamber that's within specs and bullets from a reputable manufacturer just shouldn't cause chambering problems of this magnitude. Minor, easily diagnosed seating issues, yes. But not a major issue like this.
Please, please check your chamber for debris. A chunk of gilding metal or part of a dectached case neck stuck in your chamber would explain all your problems. I know you checked the bore, but please go back and check the side walls and shoulder of the chamber. The tolerances are so tight in there that even a tiny speck can cause exactly the problems you're encountering.
Give the chamber an aggressive scrubbing before you do anything else. It's doesn't cost anything, it doesn't hurt anything, and you might just solve all your problems. Always eliminate the "simple" before tackling the "complex".
Please, please check your chamber for debris. A chunk of gilding metal or part of a dectached case neck stuck in your chamber would explain all your problems. I know you checked the bore, but please go back and check the side walls and shoulder of the chamber. The tolerances are so tight in there that even a tiny speck can cause exactly the problems you're encountering.
Give the chamber an aggressive scrubbing before you do anything else. It's doesn't cost anything, it doesn't hurt anything, and you might just solve all your problems. Always eliminate the "simple" before tackling the "complex".
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