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Non-Captive recoil springs kB GLOCKs?

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Greg8098

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Sep 28, 2006
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Bossier City, Louisiana
What is the difference between captive and non-captive springs, and why do some people say they are dangerous in GLOCK models? :uhoh: I really would like to know, don't wanna, .... well you know :what: !!!
 
I have tried them all after I had a factory plastic guide rod break on my Model 34.
None of the metal rods, be they captive or non captive, will cause a Glock to explode.
What they may very well do is cause your pistol to shoot way low and this could be a real problem if you are using fixed sights.
In my case the steel rods caused my Model 34 to shoot so low that even with the adjustable Meprolight rear sight I have on my gun clicked all the way to the top of the adjustment it was still printing three inches low.
I tried using a standard .165 front and that caused the gun to shoot three inches high with the sight clicked all the way down.
The only way I could have got the gun to print Point of aim and still have adjustment on the rear sight was to have a tritium front sight custom made in a .225" height, too much trouble.
I have since gone back to the factory plastic rods and always keep a spare handy just in case I have a breakage again. HTH
 
The factory rods work fine. I've never heard of a steel rod making any gun shoot low, nor see how it's possible. But stranger things have happened.
 
I would imagine that the steel guide rod would add mass to the front of the gun, slowing its rise as the bullet leaves the barrel.

The recoil starts as soon as the bullet begins its motion, and stops the moment the bullet leaves the barrel. The sights are adjusted so that the barrel points low compared to the POA, and when the gun is fired the recoil pushes the barrel back and up, so that at the moment the bullet leaves the barrel, the barrel is pointed at the POA. The heavier guide rod slows down the upward motion of the barrel, so the bullet leaves the barrel while it's still pointed lower than it would have been with the plastic guide rod.
 
I doubt that the problem is with the spring guide as much as it is with the recoil spring. Going too light on a Glock recoil spring can definitely have some interesting results.
 
The problem lies in the striker spring opening the gun as the trigger is pulled with light recoil springs, this will DEFINATELY cause problems up to and including a blown case. As the slide starts out of battery the case support gets lower and lower, at a certain point it will blow the case. It is the spring and not the rod that causes problems.

I have put many tens of thousands of rounds on factory Glock guide rods without a problem. My Glocks all wear stock springs, and coincidentally my Glocks run flawlessly.
 
Mt G-20 and my 17L run very well with tungsten guide rods, but I use 18 or 20 pound recoil springs.
Switching from tungsten to stock does not change the POI more than an inch at 25 yards.
Light recoil springs could cause major problems if you use a stock striker spring.
 
He has probably forgotten more than anybody here will ever know about the Glock.
Then he also knows to balance the striker spring with the recoil spring to avoid misfires/pulling the gun out of battery with the trigger. ;)

In fact, here's a quote from the first link you posted:
You can go too light:
The firing pin spring can overpower an old or too light recoil spring causing the slide to pull slightly out of battery as you pull the trigger resulting in a light primer strike. If you have off center light primer strike this is probably the cause.
In general, anything that causes an off-center primer strike in a Glock is cause for concern.
 
Every single primer strike I've had in thousands of rounds through two Glocks of different caliber have been off-center. :scrutiny:
 
I knew that was going to cause problems when I posted it. You're right, it's not unusual for any gun to cause slightly off center firing pin marks. You should have checked enough fired cases to know what's normal for your gun.

If the hits go farther off center than normal--especially if they're also lighter than normal then you've got a problem. It's something to look for after you change parts, for sure.
 
I dont know about non-captive springs, but I bought a captive SS guide rod from topglock and used the factory spring. I have fired about 5k rounds since with no problems. I also believe that it may have increased accuracy, but it could have been the practice. the captive spring makes dissassembly/assembly easier than a loose spring.
 
I've heard this question so many times it's become like the song that drives you insane. Everyone I know who has dabble'd with these various aftermarket springs and guides, they've all done the same thing, that is they've come full circle and now rely upon Gaston's original offering......And so should you..............
 
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