Norinco 1911 Compact info wanted.......

[jon_in_wv]

I used to have a Norinco Goverment Model and I beveled the mag well on it. When I started grinding I noticed a lot of metal was flying off. Then I realized it wasn't metal it was my bit flying apart. I've used the same bits on several pistols but that Norinco ate 4 bits beveling that mag well. The steel on that frame was HARD. I also did some searching online and the only breakages I could find of the Norincos was another guy with a broken barrel bushing (so OF COURSE mine would break too) and a guy with a cracked frame. The cracked frame Norc had over 45,000 rounds through it and it was still going strong. I'm pretty confident my Norc will do just fine. I just need to do something about that trigger pull.

 

[KingTiger]

I had to dig mine out of the safe after reading this thread. Some good info. here. I bought it new & it probably has less than 100 rounds thru it. Mine is in the 200xxx serial number range. It has the MP & it looks like the last 3 numbers of the serial number scratched on the barrel too. The lugs look OK, the barrel bushing can be a PIA to remove, it definitely needs to be broken in. I also have its full size brother. Neither have been modified.

 

[jon_in_wv]

barrel bushing can be a PIA to remove,

That might explain something. I was inspecting the barrel bushing yesterday and it looks like someone took a grinding wheel to it. Not very artistically either I might add. Without the barrel in the slide the bushing fit REALLY loosely. I suspect the previous owner thought it was too tight and ground it down a bit. It looks like he was pretty aggressive too so not only did he make it a sloppy fit but the probably overheated it and screwed up the heat treating too. Dang I wish people would at least do a little reading before they start grinding away on a perfectly good weapon.

BTW, I see yours has the newer style safety while mine has the old style. I wonder why the difference?

 

[rellascout]

I occasionally hear people spout that. Its nice when they do because I know they don't know what they are talking about and I can ignore them. There are a number of smiths that won't work on them because the steel is so much harder on their tooling. Soft steel??? Yeah, right.

When they are stating that they are talking about the internals not the slide and frame. Those parts in fact are pretty soft. So that person or you might just be applying a correct statement to the wrong parts.

People do not like to mill the slides or bevel the mag wells for the reasons stated. Wilson is one of those companies. They used to take Norks but they were too hard on their tooling so they stopped. This was also right around the time SA milspecs hit the scene and took over that solid base gun position.

 

[jon_in_wv]

According to the Smith I was referring to ALL the steel in the Norincos is substandard and NONE of it is heat treated and all of the parts on non-milspec so nothing will fit it right. I don't know about the hardness of the internals but they are definitely on the rough side. I don't plan on replacing anything if its not breaking for the time being. I told the wife I wouldn't spend any real money on it until I've had it for a year. I don't want to do a bunch of upgrades just to trade it off in a few months.

 

[jon_in_wv]

Today I shot another 100 rounds through my Norinco with its new Colt barrel bushing with NO problems. The colt bushing is still a little loose in the slide but it fits the barrel perfectly. I may have to order a bigger bushing so I can fit it to the slide better and get rid of the slop. Overall it shoots pretty well though. I still shoot my M&P much better.

 

[jon_in_wv]

I took the time to properly fit the barrel bushing to my Norinco. I also installed a Ed Brown sear spring and the trigger pull is greatly improved. Its actually a pretty good shooter now. Also, I figured out what the problem was with the recoil spring. After I shot my gun with the standard recoil plug I noticed the back of the plug was peened by the barrel. Then I compared the spring that was in the weapon to some other springs I had and its pretty clear the spring in the gun is a Government model spring not a commander spring. I switched it back to the FLGR and a new Wolff recoil spring and the thing shoots like a champ now. I fired a bout 300 rounds and it feeds, fires, and shoots pretty great. BUT, I put an American Classic on layaway yesterday so the Norinco is on the chopping block. If anyone is interested in it let me know. It is posted in the for sale section.

 

[slow55]

This chinese piece of junk is not for sale

 

[Zach S]

I stopped by a local gunsmith next door to see if he had a spare barrel bushing and he just nagged and nagged about how Norincos are junk, the metal is soft, the heat treating is bad, the frames crack, they never work right, the specs are way off, put a barrel bushing in it and sell it QUICK. Whatever.

I hate to say it, but that's one way I'll decide if if I'll use a 'smith - I ask about norcs...

If I get a reply along the same lines as what that 'smith told you, I go elsewhere.

The last one I asked about Norcs said he hated working on them because they were too hard on his tooling and would probably charge me more than he usually does to mill a low mount dovetail as a result. When I asked if there was anything else I should thing about he suggested a triggerjob - and suggested I "leave everything else alone - Norinco did it right."

I've been dealing with him for years.

 

[easyrider604]

BUT, I put an American Classic on layaway yesterday so the Norinco is on the chopping block. If anyone is interested in it let me know. It is posted in the for sale section.

The American Classic looks good....but has a cast frame and machined bar stock slide from regular ordnance 4140 steel. Don't know about the barrel. Small parts are by generic manufacturers.

If you're happy with that, fine.

I'd rather keep the Norkie Commander and save up to buy the American Classic.

 

[1911Tuner]

Quotes:

>I swapped out the recoil spring...I took it out for another 100 rounds and first shot the slide locks back. A closer look and I realize the barrel bushing has broken and the recoil spring plug and spring have gone down range.<

Uh...When you swapped out the recoil spring...did you check for coil bind before you fired it? 'Cause, if you didn't, and the spring stacked solid before the slide hit the impact abutment...that'll bust a bushing like right now.

About 10 years ago, a friend and neighbor ordered up a Wilson 20-pound spring from Brownells for a Colt Combat Commander and installed it without consulting yours ever-so-truly. Not only did the bushing let go, but the slide also cracked in the bushing lug's raceway. Nothing wrong with the gun. It was the spring. When I checked it in two of my Commanders, it stacked solid a full 16th inch before the slide hit the frame in both guns. The package stated clearly..."Colt Commander and Combat Commander."

So! Didja check for coil bind? No? Better check it or you'll bust the new one.

EDIT TO ADD:

Lookin' back, I see you discovered that the spring was intended for a 5-inch gun. The barrel didn't peen the spring plug. That's another part that suffers when coil bind is present.

Never assume. If you're not sure...Ask. If you don't know who to ask...research.

Here endeth the lesson.

 

[HisSoldier]

I just bought a 5" model Nork, waiting for it to get here. I hope it's a good one.

People do not like to mill the slides or bevel the mag wells for the reasons stated. Wilson is one of those companies. They used to take Norks but they were too hard on their tooling so they stopped.

This may sound simplistic, but typically when I machine a harder material I just slow down the spindle speed and use a cutting fluid with HP additives, typically MolyDee. If they are using a CNC they may not want to change the program.(?)

 

[1911Tuner]

It's not that they're harder. They're just tough as a chunk of pig iron.

Start with a sharp end mill. Flood coolant. Lots of it.