Probable cost for obtaining and fitting a Supresser?

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Oyeboten

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Granted...there are various Brands, Makes, kinds, tiers of Quality...


But, just generally, as a Ball Park -


Pistol Candiudate would be either a P-35 FN Browning/aka High Power, 9mm Luger....or, a plain Colt Model of 1911, .45 ACP.


I think it would be really fun to have a Barrel-Supressor outfit for one of these, and, I'd flip a Coin I s'pose to decide which.


So, generally, all tolled, what would one expect to be the Cost to do it?


- Petition the BofATF&E for permission and, to pay the one time Tax...$200.00

- Petition the local Sheriff for his Blessings...No Cost?

- Obtain a Barrel which has the extra length for a Supressor to be mounted...$100.00, 150.00? Or?

- Order a Supressor, which would be yes or no threaded? for which the Barrel will be threaded...$???


- Get Barrel Threaded...???


Where am I at?


What does one usually do?


This is all new to me...so...your kindness will be appreciated..!
 
Places like Jarvis sell extended threaded barrels for 1911s for $225-300ish. Don't know if he does HP barrels or not, but I'm sure someone does.

Your suppressor will come threaded. Most calibers have a typical thread pitch, some calibers have several typical thread pitches. Some suppressors will have separate inserts that allow you to change the threads on the suppressor.

LEO sign of is free, tax to gov't is $200.
 
Major Malfunction is fairly well known in the suppressor world. Here is the page with pistol suppressors from him so you can see the price ranges of the suppressors themselves.

http://www.major-malfunction.com/maj_malf_5u_012.htm



Hey I just saw the screen name for the OP. Since you are here in Vegas, check with Adam at New Frontier Armory in N. Las Vegas. He can get you set up. If you want to hear what some sound like let me know. I have suppressors for 22LR, 45ACP, and 5.56.

My personal position is to start off first with a 22Lr suppressor. It is the most quiet and usually the least expensive way into NFA stuff. Trust me once you start there is no going back. What do you have in 22lr now? There are a few that it would be easy to get set-up as a suppressor host.
 
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Silencing BHPs is unfortunately very difficult. I have yet to see it done where the gun will still cycle 100%, even with a booster on the can.
 
I made a silencer for my Browning HP. It is not a good choice for suppression as far as I am concerned. The barrel is slim, and has no shoulder to index on.

I made the can as light as I could and bought an eight pound spring. This was still not good enough so I cut the spring down by an inch and loaded the 147 grain cast bullets to about 1060 fps. This means the ammo is rather hot and right near the speed of sound. The slide moves back barely enough to make the brass fly out a few feet and barely has the power to load the next cartridge. I would say my suppressed HP is about 95% reliable.

Another problem is the threaded barrel I bought. I do not recall what brand it is, but the chamber is a bit tighter than the factory one and I have to check each round I load to ensure it will chamber properly with finger pressure or the weak slide spring will not be able to return the slide completely forward.

Shooting cast ammo through it makes the can very dirty. I have to scrap the gunk off then scrub the baffles and can. If I go more than 100 rounds between cleanings, then the baffles are very hard to get out.

Ranb
 
9mm is a fun combo if pistol barrel and suppressor are threaded 1/2x28 and used in concert with a 9mm ar-15 upper receiver
 
I don't know if this is in line with the OP, but if you buy from the internet, how much is a typical transfer cost?
 
An SOT will typically charge $50-100 to receive a title II firearm from out of state and transfer it to you.
 
Thanks everyone...


Lots to think about with this.

Interesting that the FN P-35 is not found to be a good candidate.

Too bad, a 'Silenced' Hi-Power would be so cool.

And...well, the more I think about it, the more tempting it feels to petition the B of ATF and now also E for their blessings and for obtaining the pretty little Stamp, to make one myself, instead of buying one.


I'd really prefer the old 'Maxim' type ( if I am not mistaken) which sat 'low' and let you use your factory Sights.


How charming that only a few generations ago, one could order 'Silencers' from Magazine Ads in 'Field and Stream' and others, or by just walking into a larger Hardware, Sporting Goods or Gun Store, and, use them for Hunting, shooting Barn Rodents, or just fun Plinking, and, no special paperwork or other issues.


If there were any way to do so, if I could, I'd love to buy a genuine "Old" one from 1910, 1920, 1930s even, where, it would match the era of the Candidate Gun(s) it'd be fitted to.

I know I'd love to have one!

Never tried one, never seen one in use, but, I know, it'd be really fun.


Darn it...last Gun Show, a guy had a bunch of older M1911 Barrels, in good shape, and, some were extra long and stout on the end, and, I looked at them, and, did not put two-and-two together, and, I probably could have had them for 35 or 40 bucks a piece since he was there to get rid of stuff.
 
Hi WoofersInc,


You'd relayed -

Major Malfunction is fairly well known in the suppressor world. Here is the page with pistol suppressors from him so you can see the price ranges of the suppressors themselves.

http://www.major-malfunction.com/maj_malf_5u_012.htm
Click to expand...


They look nice...

And, I get the drift now that for any given Pistol I am looking at something near to or a little over a grand, to have a set-up.


Hey I just saw the screen name for the OP. Since you are here in Vegas, check with Adam at New Frontier Armory in N. Las Vegas. He can get you set up.
Click to expand...



I will do that!


That'll be fun...I will go see them and check it out.


If you want to hear what some sound like let me know. I have suppressors for 22LR, 45ACP, and 5.56.
Click to expand...


I would appreciate that very much, thank you!


I am still having trouble understanding how Supressors attach to the Barrel of various kinds of Arms...and, how Supressors are made, dismounted, dismantled, and cleaned.

Granted, I understand many kinds screw on to a Threaded Barrel-Muzzle end, and, some, slip into a holder and lock in place...but, I have never really critically examined either.

The old 'Soldier of Fortune' Show that used to be at the Hacienda, used to have a ghood bunch of Supressed Arms and Suppressors at various tables, I just used to walk on by without pasuing to study them or find out more.

Oh well...Lol...so it goes...

I should do some 'googles' and begin reading up more.


My personal position is to start off first with a 22Lr suppressor. It is the most quiet and usually the least expensive way into NFA stuff.
Click to expand...


Makes sense...


Trust me once you start there is no going back.
Click to expand...


I believe you!


Lol...


That's part of what is occupying my imagination with this - if I had one, I'd probably find myself staring at another different Arm of mine, thinking, "Man...I bet it would sure be fun to have one for THIS one too..."


What do you have in 22lr now? There are a few that it would be easy to get set-up as a suppressor host.
Click to expand...


Hi-Standard Model 'B', short Barrel .22 Automatic Pistol ( circa 1935 )

Colt .22 Automatic Pistol , usual long Barrel Model ( circa 1916 )

Reising .22 Automatic Pistol ( circa 1924 )

All integral Barrels, of course...

Oh, and, a 'Stevens' ( I think? In Storage, ) 1940s or '50s era Tube Fed semi-auto Rifle which is .22 LR. But it needs work, will not feed reliably...nice otherwise though.
 
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Hi RanB,



Thanks for sharing your experience and offering encouragement.


I made a silencer for my Browning HP. It is not a good choice for suppression as far as I am concerned. The barrel is slim, and has no shoulder to index on.
Click to expand...

Darn it, mine is across town in Storage, so I can not look at it to see this aspect better.

I made the can as light as I could and bought an eight pound spring. This was still not good enough so I cut the spring down by an inch and loaded the 147 grain cast bullets to about 1060 fps. This means the ammo is rather hot and right near the speed of sound. The slide moves back barely enough to make the brass fly out a few feet and barely has the power to load the next cartridge. I would say my suppressed HP is about 95% reliable.
Click to expand...


A different Powder/Propellent maybe? would help on the fouling issue..?


I wonder why the Hi-Power should have troubles cycling with a Suppressor, while, a M1911 platform does not?


Or, do people find they need to finesse Spring strengths or Ammunition details, for M1911s to manage having the added weight/inertia of their Barrels hosting a Suppressor?


I dunno...just now learning...


Another problem is the threaded barrel I bought. I do not recall what brand it is, but the chamber is a bit tighter than the factory one and I have to check each round I load to ensure it will chamber properly with finger pressure or the weak slide spring will not be able to return the slide completely forward.
Click to expand...


Ugh...

I bet you could carefully Lap that yourself, and, make it friendlier.

Or, a friendly Smith who has a Chamber Reamer of the right size...


Shooting cast ammo through it makes the can very dirty. I have to scrap the gunk off then scrub the baffles and can. If I go more than 100 rounds between cleanings, then the baffles are very hard to get out.
Click to expand...


I only recently got back into Loading re-Loading, and, do not off the top of my head recall what Powders might be cleaner burning for that situation.

But, I'm sure there are some good candidates to try out and see.

But, it is a well defined perameter anyway...those FPS, that Bullet Weight, that Barrel length.


I wonder if a light spray of 'Pam' or Dry-Lube or even WD-40, would ease the particles adhering to the Baffle surrounds...


Sorry, I ended up brainstorming your things, when you were kindly trying to help me...


Lol...


But, I really appreciate your stepping up with specific Hi-Power experience.


Would you be comfortable to relay further details of how you made it?


I may elect to appy for the 'do it myself' version of the ownership ritual and Tax.


I realize most Suppressors are concentric, as this would aid in the ease of their manufacture.


And, the kind which sit 'low', which are eccentric, all the internal parts are then off-center in their arrangement/alignment, and, thus, need to index somehow to be in their right positions.
 
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I have no idea why the BHP has problems. The HP, Makarov and Buckmark are the only semi-auto pistols I have that are suppressed and they are all different action types. It is the cast bullet with its lube that contributes to the ghastly fouling I observe. The silencers I have that only see jacketed bullets do not have this problem. As far as the tighter HP barrel, I have found that I just need to be very careful of how I crimp to ensure the cartridges fit properly. But I still check each one for now.

I am going to make an off-set can for my M94 rifle, but that is a ways off until I figure out how to index the baffles to keep them from rotating. I might just make it as a one inch wide can set in the top of a two inch can so that the expansion chamber is offset.

Here are a few drawings I made. If you want to make your own, then you need to get a lathe and practice on it for a bit. I learned to operate a lathe while making my first silencer.


baffles2a.jpg

9mmsuppressor-1.jpg

Ranb
 
I am going to make an off-set can for my M94 rifle, but that is a ways off until I figure out how to index the baffles to keep them from rotating. I might just make it as a one inch wide can set in the top of a two inch can so that the expansion chamber is offset.
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See if somebody has one of the SilencerCo Osprey cans. They are an offset design. Might be able to pick up some ideas from that.

http://www.silencerco.com/Silencerco/
 
Hi Ranb,



Thanks...

Yes, indeed, I will definitely have all proper Paperwork understood, and, in place, well prior to any beginnings of construction ( if or when or as I even have time and room in my head for construction to proceed. )

If I am able to locate and to arrange to buy a genuinely old Silencer, then, I would likely petition for that, and, retain the idea of making one in addition, for sometime further down the road.

How are the Baffles usually made? If having complex sections?


Are Aluminum Alloy Baffles used?


Too...I keep thinking of the old 1920s - 1930s 'ALEMITE' Grease Gun Bodys which were made of Aluminum Alloy, and, had nice crisp impressed Checkering patterns on them...these occured in various sizes and Models, and, would be such a good looking surround or Can for the Silencer for an older Pistol.
 
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Most people make baffles on a lathe, which is a very easy process as long as they want baffles that are symmetrical. Some asymmetry is good because this contributes to turbulence which aids in suppression. For K baffles some asymmetry is added by drilling holes in the front and side of the baffle. Others will use a mill to machine a horizontal vent path along the face of the baffle.

Aluminum and stainless steel are the most common metals used in the USA. I use aluminum and 4130 for ease of machining and low cost. In countries that do not control silencers, delrin (a dense polymer) is a popular choice for rim fire silencer baffles.

Ranb
 
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