Alllen Bundy
Member
I highly recommend that you read this guide before using a threadlocker on your pistol, automobile, or whatever.
Threadlocking User’s Guide
https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/MRO_TL_Guide
The most common mistake that I see is people making is using a threadlocker with inactive metals such as:
Plated Parts
Anodized Aluminum
Titanium
Stainless Steel
Galvanized Steel
Zinc
Pure Aluminum
Cadmium
Magnesium
Natural or Chemical Black Oxide
Magnetite Steel
InconelTM
Silver
Gold
Loctite requires not only the absence of air to cure, but it also requires that at least one surface is an active metal that will trigger the curing such as:
Iron
Plain Steel
Copper
Brass
Bronze
Manganese
Monel
Kovar
If at least one surface is not an active metal, you must either use a primer on the metal before applying the Loctite, or you must use one of the new Loctite formulations that have a built in primer.
I bought an aftermarket return spring assembly with a stainless steel guide rod and an black oxide coated threaded end. I was able to unscrew the end WITH MY FINGERS and they had used a high strength thread locker! Other people reported that the guide rod unscrewed while they were shooting.
To be sure that it wasn't a bad batch of thread locker or dirty parts at the factory, I thoroughly cleaned the threads with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and used some fresh Loctite that I knew was good and I had the same poor results.
I bought a tube of the new Loctite #243 blue medium strength formulation that had the primer inside. I applied a drop to the threads and it locked up solid. There was no need whatsoever for the high strength Loctite. The medium strength Loctite was more than adequate when it cured properly.
Sometimes you can get plated or oxide coated surfaces to cure Loctite. But that only happens if you are lucky enough to have enough of the oxide or plating scraped off so that the underlying active metal can cure the Loctite.
Threadlocking User’s Guide
https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/MRO_TL_Guide
The most common mistake that I see is people making is using a threadlocker with inactive metals such as:
Plated Parts
Anodized Aluminum
Titanium
Stainless Steel
Galvanized Steel
Zinc
Pure Aluminum
Cadmium
Magnesium
Natural or Chemical Black Oxide
Magnetite Steel
InconelTM
Silver
Gold
Loctite requires not only the absence of air to cure, but it also requires that at least one surface is an active metal that will trigger the curing such as:
Iron
Plain Steel
Copper
Brass
Bronze
Manganese
Monel
Kovar
If at least one surface is not an active metal, you must either use a primer on the metal before applying the Loctite, or you must use one of the new Loctite formulations that have a built in primer.
I bought an aftermarket return spring assembly with a stainless steel guide rod and an black oxide coated threaded end. I was able to unscrew the end WITH MY FINGERS and they had used a high strength thread locker! Other people reported that the guide rod unscrewed while they were shooting.
To be sure that it wasn't a bad batch of thread locker or dirty parts at the factory, I thoroughly cleaned the threads with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and used some fresh Loctite that I knew was good and I had the same poor results.
I bought a tube of the new Loctite #243 blue medium strength formulation that had the primer inside. I applied a drop to the threads and it locked up solid. There was no need whatsoever for the high strength Loctite. The medium strength Loctite was more than adequate when it cured properly.
Sometimes you can get plated or oxide coated surfaces to cure Loctite. But that only happens if you are lucky enough to have enough of the oxide or plating scraped off so that the underlying active metal can cure the Loctite.