rebound problem-S&W 37 airweight

[Haycreek]

I recently picked up a S&W 37 from and estate, for a good price. Upon firing the revolver, the rebound would not reset the trigger forward. Suspecting that coils were clipped on the rebound spring, I replaced the spring with a Wolf 11 pound spring , same problem. Then the spring was replaced with a 15 pound spring, same problem. I am now waiting for an factory 18 pound replacement. While waiting, I have polished the rebound slide sides and edges and the hand that turns the cylinder. The hand appeared to have drag on the slot in the frame. The revolver has been stripped one piece at a time until only the trigger assy, hand and cyl stop assmbly remained. It still has a catch, or drag which seems to still indicate excessive friction where the hand goes through the slot in the frame to the cyl. I hesitate on removing any surface from the hand until I replace the rebound spring with an 18 pound factory spring . Your recommendations will be appreciated. [the rebound spring WAS 2 coils shorter than the Wolf spring]

 

[rcmodel]

It seems unlikely the hand is dragging enough to over-power the rebound spring.

I would pull the hand off the trigger and see what you have.

I would also replace the hammer spring with one of known full strength.
It has some small part to play in trigger rebound also.

It's possible "Clipper-Guy" clipped it also.

It's also possible Clipper-Guy was also "Stoner-Guy" and did some ill-advised cutting on the trigger, hammer, fly, or rebound slide. All the internal parts are case-hardened, and after someone stones through the case-hardened surfaces, you will very likely need some new S&W parts to fix it.


rcmodel

 

[Jim K]

How about the cylinder stop? A kinked cylinder stop spring can cause what you describe because the trigger can't push the cylinder stop back (actually forward) to re-engage it.

Jim

 

[Haycreek]

rebound spring problem-S&W 37 airweight

The hammer spring appears not to have been trimmed, and it feels heavy, I can't tell if any part was excessively polished, appears ok. I will look at the slide stop spring for kinks.. when I get the 18 pound rebound spring tomorrow, hopefully things will work. -----thes J frames are more sensitive than the others------- first time I have worked on a J frame, always preferred the service size handguns. I already see why folks like the 15 ounce pocket revolvers, a good pocket knife and a ring of keys weigh more the the 37.

 

[Haycreek]

rebound spring problem - S&W 37

Case solved with a 18 pound rebound spring. Previous owner had clipped 2 coils off, and it wouldn't run properly with anything but a factory 18#.

 

[Riss]

Check the hook area between the trigger and cylinder stop. I think. Anyhow, the top front of trigger, little hook that pulls down the cyl stop thingy. I have had it almost on every S&W that I have ever touched that I can get it to lockup of and catch. Needs a little stoning so it releases the stop easier. Very light. Only need enough to break the curl on the edge from when it was machined. IMHO if you HAD to replace the spring with the factory 18# in order to get it to function something is wrong, or dirty.

 

[Haycreek]

rebound spring problem-S&W 37 airweight

Thanks for the info, I will check the hook in the near future, the revolver runs ok with the 18 pound spring. but something just doesn't feel right. I believe your information. Thanks,

 

[Haycreek]

rebound spring problem-S&W 37 airweight

Riss-- The revolver would not rebound like it should with a 15 pound spring that I had on hand, I will check the hook you mentioned. I touched up some other places lightly, but did not touch up the hook. I will touch it up-lightly.