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revolver jamming !?

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FLORIDA KEVIN

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i was at the range yesterday shooting my Rugers .357 speed six and SRH 454 . The fellow next to my was shooting a new taurus 454 ,after about his 9th shot the revolver locked up solid and would not rotate and the hammer was stuck! When the gun was examined you couls see what looked to be the firing pin stuck in the primer of the fired round . after much shaking tapping and trying to pry the pin back with a knife blade ,he finaly just pulled on the hammer real hard and the cylinder rotated , the gun was unloaded and inspected the pin no damage xould be determined ! the primer on the round was bulged and there was a burr on the edge of a deep crater from the firing pin strike ! This was a new gun with win factory 260 grn loads ! is this type of failure common with revolvers? I had always considered revolvers to be more reliable than autos ! this has me re-thinking that ! What do you guys think ? kevin
 
:rolleyes: Here come the Taurus bashers. Sounds like bait to me.

Revolvers can lock, usually for ammo reasons like bullets pulling their crimp (very possible in a .454) or high primers. I've had it happen with high primers when my priming tool wore out and I didn't realize it. He could have a problem with the gun if it's new. I know enough to check any purchase I make out before putting down the money, personally, and I really doubt it's the gun. Must probably ammo. But, he might have a tight cylinder gap or something and fouling could be tying it up. I'd have to check it out to really know. Hard to say over the internet.

Revolver or auto, I shoot the gun for a while with intended carry loads before trusting it for carry. Revolvers have been working for self defense a lot longer than autoloader.
 
Not common but it can happen. Failures are more common on autos( due to ammo, the auto mechanism is MUCH more solid than the complex clockwork in revolvers) , but failures in autos are much easier to fix too( “Tap, rack bang” most of the time, just a second to two) while a revolver not working requires you to sit down with a screwdriver and start twitching, a trip to the gunsmith is not far away.
That’s why a BUG is always a good idea, no matter what’s your primary weapon.

FerFAL
 
That'll happen when the case gets set back, either due to crud in the cylinder or an overlong round with the bullet jammed into the forcing cone before ignition. As mentioned earlier, probably the bullet pulled crimp, giving an overlong round.
 
I promise I wasn't trying to "bait" the taurus bashers ! I like Taurus ! I was more concerned with the reliablity of the revolver ! The ammo was factory and the revolver was new ! I have been told that this type of failure can occur if the case doesn't expand and stick to the chamber wall the case slams back into the firing pin and sticks ? Can be caused by too much lube in a chamber ? :confused:
 
I've had this similar primer issue on a rifle. My theory is this... reaming the primer pocket with a RCBS primer pocket tool could have taken out some of the brass needed to have a tight hold on the primer.

Any thoughts or seconds on this opinion?

The Lee factory crimp die has cured any problems I ever had with bullets slipping out of a crimp. THANKS LEE RELOADING!
 
A 'smith needs to first examine the firing pin bushing, to see if the hole is too large. That could allow the primer to flow around the FP and into the hole. This is not an issue unique to Taurus. The firing pin itself could be involved, if out of spec. It could be a "perfect storm" combination of firing pin hole, firing pin, and the individual, particular cartridge.
 
The .454 is a very high pressure round. You're much less apt to get a primer set back with a .38 special or .357 magnum, more common fighting rounds. I don't think you'd see those issue with .357 ammo, really.

One of the signs of rifle overpressure is primer pocket expansion. I don't "ream" the primer pocket when I'm reloading rifle ammo, but usually do use a Lee primer pocket cleaning tool which takes the goo out of the bottom of the pocket. With handguns, I usually load on a progressive anymore which precludes any primer pocket maintenance.

If that ammo gave that sort of problem, I think I'd look for another brand/load for that gun just like if I were getting FTF with a given brand in a new auto. However, I reload all my ammo. The most powerful revolver load I fire, though, is a hot .45 Colt in my Blackhawk. I don't have a .454. That would be new levels of power for me to delve into. :D More pressure often means new things to worry about. I'd like to get a Freedom Arms revolver some day in .454.

A 'smith needs to first examine the firing pin bushing, to see if the hole is too large. That could allow the primer to flow around the FP and into the hole. This is not an issue unique to Taurus. The firing pin itself could be involved, if out of spec. It could be a "perfect storm" combination of firing pin hole, firing pin, and the individual, particular cartridge.

Excellent and true enough.
 
If it happens again, don't just crank back on the hammer with all your might trying to get it to turn.

You should also attempt to turn the cylinder with the other hand to take some strain off of the hand & ratchet.

Better yet, try to open the cylinder if you can before forcing it to turn.

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rcmodel
 
I Once Had It Happen...

...with a S&W M-586. I had to remove the side plate and enough parts to remove the hammer in order to get it back into operation. Some will recall the subsequent recall on the non-dash models of this gun to reduce the diameter of the firing-pin bushing and of the firing-pin nose, to eliminate this problem. The problem was reportedly due to an increase in back pressure from a narrower angle on the forcing cone than the one on the S&W K-frame .357's, which had experienced occasional cracks when fed a steady diet of the hot 125 gr. loads.
 
Thanks guys!!When i see the guy with the taurus I will let him know ! and will keep a close eye on my reloads in my SRH!! Kevin :D
 
When the powder ignites, the primer is pushed out of it's pocket and against the frame at the firing pin. Gas pressure forces the case back, reseating the primer. The case then rebounds forward as the firing pin retracts, separating things. That's normal. If the case is set back and expands tightly against the cylinder wall, it won't rebound properly and the primer can trap the firing pin. Same thing can happen if the firing pin bushing is too tight. One way or the other, the firing pin is trapped. Happened to me once due to crud in the cylinder. I simply levered the case rim forward with a screwdriver, and the problem was solved.
 
Sometimes, if the trigger is all the way to the rear, you can hold it back to keep it there, and lightly tap the hammer spur with a wood block, plastic hammer, or wood hammer handle.

That will sometimes, allow the FP to drive the offending primer metal back out of the hole.
But not always.

DO NOT try this with a mis-fire or otherwise still loaded round!

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rcmodel
 
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