ultramag44
Member
I bought the GP 100 22LR from the LGS. :t
It was tagged for $749.99. I looked on completed GB auctions, figured in what a transfer fee would be and made the shop my offer. I got it OTD for my offered price of $675.00
I did some reading on the GP100 action/lock works. I ordered a Wolf spring set and a shim set from eBay.
I took a bulk round, pulled the bulket, dumped the powder, then popped the cap. The pin strike looks deep enough.
Unfortunately, the wind was blowing @ 20 mph with gusts yesterday! So , no accuracy data to report.
The good: 100% ignition Norma Tac, Winchester, Remington, Wolf, Rex (thick brass) Eagle (Mexican made) & Federal all went off w/o a hitch.
The pin indent is fine. The pin footprint is a bit smaller then I like, but since there were not any ignition issues like others have reported, I'm satisfied on the ignition question.
The bad: the action hasn't smoothed up @ all after about 100 rounds
The gun would almost lock up sometimes as I pulled the hammer back. The trigger still has the: 1 pause, 2 pause, release point feeling.
I pulled the mainspring strut. The part is a stamping. I stoned the rough side.
The gap between the rear of the cylinder and the frame is tight. The area under the extractor star must be kept clean. Any residue between it and cylinder will cause cylinder closing issues.
The shim kit comes with shims for the trigger and the hammer. It fits several models of Ruger revolvers. There are .003 and .005 shims. The instructions say to lightly lap them because they are stampings. It took just a few seconds w/ a fine oil stone to make the shims flat.
The trigger design on the GP100 .22 (verses other, older GP100's) has been improved. It has raised bosses on either side of trigger. There is no room for trigger shims and no wiggle in the trigger.
The hammer of the GP100 .22 is a Milled unit. The shims are a definite asset to the hammer! Even firing about 100 rounds last weekend put scratch marks on the sides of the hammer. I put grease on the sides of the hammer to hold the shims in place as I slid the hammer in place. The shims center the hammer. Pulling the hammer back is now smoother.
I replaced the factory trigger return spring w/ the 8# spring from the kit. The trigger is now down to fairly smooth 4.5#. It started out a rough, several stages 5.5# trigger.
I have not yet changed the mainspring. As the gun was 100% sure fire w/ the factory spring, I hesitate to change it. After I shoot the gun again, I may try changing the mainspring. The hammer is smoother now, so it may still be 100% sure fire w/ one of the springs from the kit.
Oh, if you remove the pawl, make sure you cover the recess where pawl plunger & spring are. If not they'll go flying. I had to crawl around on the floor to find them
If I can get to the range tomorrow, I'll have an update.
It was tagged for $749.99. I looked on completed GB auctions, figured in what a transfer fee would be and made the shop my offer. I got it OTD for my offered price of $675.00
I did some reading on the GP100 action/lock works. I ordered a Wolf spring set and a shim set from eBay.
I took a bulk round, pulled the bulket, dumped the powder, then popped the cap. The pin strike looks deep enough.
Unfortunately, the wind was blowing @ 20 mph with gusts yesterday! So , no accuracy data to report.
The good: 100% ignition Norma Tac, Winchester, Remington, Wolf, Rex (thick brass) Eagle (Mexican made) & Federal all went off w/o a hitch.
The pin indent is fine. The pin footprint is a bit smaller then I like, but since there were not any ignition issues like others have reported, I'm satisfied on the ignition question.
The bad: the action hasn't smoothed up @ all after about 100 rounds
The gun would almost lock up sometimes as I pulled the hammer back. The trigger still has the: 1 pause, 2 pause, release point feeling.
I pulled the mainspring strut. The part is a stamping. I stoned the rough side.
The gap between the rear of the cylinder and the frame is tight. The area under the extractor star must be kept clean. Any residue between it and cylinder will cause cylinder closing issues.
The shim kit comes with shims for the trigger and the hammer. It fits several models of Ruger revolvers. There are .003 and .005 shims. The instructions say to lightly lap them because they are stampings. It took just a few seconds w/ a fine oil stone to make the shims flat.
The trigger design on the GP100 .22 (verses other, older GP100's) has been improved. It has raised bosses on either side of trigger. There is no room for trigger shims and no wiggle in the trigger.
The hammer of the GP100 .22 is a Milled unit. The shims are a definite asset to the hammer! Even firing about 100 rounds last weekend put scratch marks on the sides of the hammer. I put grease on the sides of the hammer to hold the shims in place as I slid the hammer in place. The shims center the hammer. Pulling the hammer back is now smoother.
I replaced the factory trigger return spring w/ the 8# spring from the kit. The trigger is now down to fairly smooth 4.5#. It started out a rough, several stages 5.5# trigger.
I have not yet changed the mainspring. As the gun was 100% sure fire w/ the factory spring, I hesitate to change it. After I shoot the gun again, I may try changing the mainspring. The hammer is smoother now, so it may still be 100% sure fire w/ one of the springs from the kit.
Oh, if you remove the pawl, make sure you cover the recess where pawl plunger & spring are. If not they'll go flying. I had to crawl around on the floor to find them
If I can get to the range tomorrow, I'll have an update.
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