S&W 1917 Cylinder Stop Fitting?

[Badger Arms]

Got a new (hehehe) Brazilian 1917 that has a very loose cylinder stop. First, where do I get a new one? Is it interchangeable with Modern "N" framed pistols? Finally, how do I fit it?

The gun is in poor condition... looks like it was halfway polished over the pits and dunked in a bluing tank at the arsenal. All original including lanyard stud and grip panels. Bore is in pretty good shape, only a few spots of pitting and nothing fatal. Cleaned up pretty good but I want the cylinder to have less side-to-side play.

 

[Wildalaska]

After following the internet lesssons in stop fitting, adn once thats butchered, and the amatuer shooting range gunsmiths get it next, I know that the poor Brazzy will be presetned to me with a hangdog look cuz it dont work at all...

Remember my famous $100 rule..

Its "x" to fix it first..
Its x plus $100 to fix your mistake.


WildorsellittomeiwillpartitoutAlaska

 

[Badger Arms]

It's pretty ugly, but I ain't gonna part it out. The bore is good enough. Actually, years ago I had one stolen. I was off fighting for the other George Bush and had my guns stored at my mother's house. They broke into the locker WITHOUT the HK-91 and CAR-15. They took the 1917 with a Cracked cylinder... the 5-shot model. Funny, my father said he hoped whoever got it tried to shoot it that way!

At any rate, I'm planning on doing some kitchen table gunsmithing on the stop if somebody can give me some pointers... not on the expensive parts.

 

[Dave Sample]

I bought two of these so I could make "Big Smith" PPC Gun complete with Bo-Mar Rib and checkering on the trigger guard. The bolt had to be welded up and I am glad we had two sets of parts. Milt Morrison of Qualite' did the bolt for me. I don't weld. They are a Wicked Googily to get nice. Perhaps Gun Parts would have a bolt.

 

[Jim K]

I am not going to tear down two guns just to check, but the 1917 is an N frame, so I would try an N frame stop in it. If it fits, you can always order one or even an oversize one.

Of course, the old stop uses the screw, spring and plunger; IIRC, you can eliminate the plunger with the new stop and just install a longer spring.

Jim

 

[Badger Arms]

Well, I took apart another "N" frame and looked at the stop. Sure enough, it's the same dimensions in most respects. There are a few differences I think I can get around. I'll have to get a longer spring for the stop as Jim suggested and I'll also have to fill in the spring hole that's already there as it doesn't seem to be in the right place. Either that or keep the old plunger but I don't think it has enough power... seemed kinda weak. That'll be a project for next weekend. How should I fill the spring hole on the new stop?

 

[Jim K]

I wouldn't fill that hole until I was sure I needed to. IIRC, the old plunger will meet the stop at the same point, so you might be able to just use it as was. Finding a spring should be a "junk box shopping trip". If you really need to fill a hole, something like liquid steel in the tube should work, or epoxy a piece of drill rod in there and file it down.

Anyway, fitting should not be an insurmountable problem. Incredibly, S&W really has not changed basic dimensions that much. I had a nice little lemon squeezer a while back with the usual problem, grips in about 17 pieces. I got some Model 36 Chiefs Special wood grips and put them on. The distance from the top half-moon cutout to the grip pin was the same! I only had to cut some off the bottom of the grips and shape the "magnum" upper to the frame. Add a little spray spar varnish (which is what S&W uses/used) and the gun looks great.

Jim

 

[Badger Arms]

Yes, I've tried my Pachmayr Presentation grips which fully surround the grip area and they fit just fine... the "N" Frame version. Just need to order that stop now. Jack First has them in stock.

 

[Badger Arms]

SUCCESS!

Ordered a 629 Cylinder Stop (used I assume) from Jack First. It was much larger than the one on my 1917, but worked fine. I'd imagine that the old stop was either worked on or severely worn. So, when I put it in the gun, I noticed that there was a shoulder on the spring plunger that kept it from engaging in the hole on the new style stop.

First step was to plug the hole. I took a drywall screw (it's not your gun, be quiet!) and cut down the shaft so that it was about 3/8" long. I then epoxied the pin into the hole and contoured the outside to roughly the same proportions as the old stop. Worked great, but the larger stop created a timing problem. I adjusted timing by trimming down the stop engagement surface slightly and all was well.

Next step was to fix the trigger pull. Looks like some monkey had tried to give the gun a 'trigger job' and had nearly eliminated the single-action notch. I recreated the notch so that it was safe and then stoned it so it was smooth. Got the angles right, first try. Eat your heart out, John Browning! It helped that I had the sideplate off my 629 to compare.

Final analysis? Single action pull is fine, double action is still a bit weird with a hitch. There is not enough metal left to safely work the double-action pull so I'm leaving it rather than creating another problem. Cylinder times perfectly and there is minimal movement when locked.

One more step... I'm buying a set of Pachmayr Presentation grips that enclose the entire frame. It will hide some serious pitting and makes the gun feel good. I've got 17 half-moon clips left from the 1917 that got stolen. I'm sure I've got a few more and maybe a full moon clip or two, but it's time for a range trip now!