Shot Shell Reloading questions

Status
Not open for further replies.

LKLive13

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2013
Messages
226
Location
Wichita KS
So i have started to entertain the thought of reloading my own shells. I think it would be nice to find a load for my O/U that wot beat me to death after 100-150 rounds fired. My major question is how do you identify the type of hulls you have. I have been saving my hulls from rounds i have shot but i have no clue where to begin with the data. Hodgdons website lists SEVERAL different hulls and wads for recipes and i have no idea where to even begin. Thanks in advance for your input!
 
I got busy with a sharp hack saw and cut a specimen of each in half. I then compared the known with the unknown. Basically the type of base forming, any internal ring, and whether the hull is tapered or straight wall will determine the wad type/length used. Then use the load data for an identical shaped hull that is known. I do not bother with the hulls that have a cardboard or fiber base inside as if it gets wet it might shoot out (even after it is dried) when fired. Don't want anything that might by chance block the barrel. The book mentioned above or the one from Ballistic Products INC. are also helpful getting started.
 
+1

Sort the hulls and cut one of each in half with a razor saw or fine-tooth hacksaw.

Once you can see the internal construction, you can swap out data indescrimently between cases of the same internal dimensions.

I did this years ago when I still reloaded shot shells.

image.jpg

Today?
The price of lead, wads, powder & primers makes it less then economical to reload them.

(Except for special purpose hunting loads, etc.)

rc
 
d1ucu-60.jpg

The Lyman manual is GREAT. Get one.

The above photo illustrates my approach to shot shell reloading. All of the above were loaded with the same powder charge, same shot charge, etc.

I would agree with and even admire those who take a more compulsive and scientific approach and cut shot shells in half but I didn't do that. I would also agree that some wads are made for tapered hulls and some for straight but I ignored that dictum as well. In addition, I would caution against using this approach if the load is on the bleeding edge of hot like with the hottest primer, etc.

All my loads broke clays just fine.

No, I didn't shoot at a pattern board either but maybe I will some time.
 
shotgun world website has a reloading forum. there are lots of stickys and helpful info. lots of reloaders are going to 3/4 oz and 7/8 loads to reduce recoil and to save shot. lead shot prices are very high. RC is correct it is a wash if you will save money reloading 12 or 20 ga. However there are significant savings if you reload 410 and 28 ga.

the primary reason to reload now is to get customized loads that are light on recoil.

REM Hulls are the best for reloading, WIN AA are good also, the rest can be reloaded but are less desirable.

Get the latest Lyman shotshell reloading manual and a MEC loader and have at it!!

Bull
 
Thanks for the input guys. I think i will buy Wal-Mart shells and take the beating to my shoulder for now. I have an OLD pacific reloader i picked up at a garage sale for $25 so when i get ready to start i have a working press. Might be old but it should do the job.
 
For me, it started with the hulls I could pick up for free at the range. Then I went to Alliant's website and chose a powder for those hulls, and got their recipe, and away I went.
 
12 gauge or 20? Use Remington hulls - Gun Clubs, STS or similar. 28 and 410 go with Winchester AA.
Alliant and Hodgdon web sites have load data.
If you are getting beat up after 100 rounds, you most likely have a gun that does not fit you properly.

Recoil reduction is accomplished with a light slow load. My favorite is 3/4 oz running about 1200 fps - works my Beretta gas guns perfectly.


I think i will buy Wal-Mart shells and take the beating to my shoulder for now.

No need to settle for crap - Cabela's and others sell good stuff - catch a sale with $5 or free shipping and buy some Gun Clubs with a 1oz payload and save those hulls.

Reloading pays for itself in one of two ways - you reload in serious bulk amounts by buying components like wads by the case of 5,000, primers by the sleeve of 5,000, shot by the hundredweight or half ton and powder in 8# jugs by the case of two; or you load something specific you cannot buy - either really heavy for hunting or really light for targets.
 
Does loading shotshells make sense today?

Yes! Oh I know how wally world and the other big box stores have those economy packs of shotshells. But if you took one of those econo shells apart, you would find soft chilled shot, a small charge of very fast powder, and the cheapest thin wad they could find. Loaded inside a hull that’s NOT made to be reloaded, in some cases attempting to reload them could be dangerous.

Now take one or more of those cheapy shells to the pattern board. Ummm, you do pattern your shotgun,,,right? No? Then how do you really know how the chokes really work? Anyway, the cheapo shells will have blotchy patterns, holes a bird, rabbit, or clays could sit in unharmed!

You can not reload shells cheaper than those econo shells. Can’t be done! Especially with what shot, powder, primers, and wads cost these days. Why would you WANT to?

What you want to load are shells that are as good as, or even better than the top of the line target shells put out by Winchester, Remington, and Federal. That would be the AA, STS and gold medal. To do that you must either buy the loaded shells, shoot them to get empties, or buy once fired empties. The new AA is no where near as good as the older compression formed AA. That leaves the STS and gold medal.

To duplicate the performance of the original loading, you need to buy all top of the line components. No skimping here. Magnum shot,(don’t let that name fool you), is high antimony shot. It’s harder than plain old chilled shot. The hardness translates into better patterns. It’s what the factory STS and others target shells have in them. Wads; The big 3 all sell their wads for reloading. They all work, but you can save some $ by buying claybuster wads. They’re made to the same dimensions as the wad they’re replacing, just cheaper. Some say the plastic isn’t as soft, but I’ve found them to work just fine. Powder; Just about any of the shotshell powders will work well. Just be sure of your recipe and follow it exactly. Primers; Again they all work well, be sure to match them to your recipe.

Loading this way, you can duplicate the expensive target shells, but save a quite a bit of money compared to the best there is to buy.

I will warn strongly against loading one recipe for all hulls. Shotguns are very unforgiving about mistakes when switching components. There's a very thin line for the pressures developed. Switching one thing like a different primer can and does make a perfectly safe load into one that could destroy a gun and hurt the shooter and bystanders.
 
OP please o please head over to shotgun world and do some reading. This forum may know a thing or two about metallic reloading but after reading through this thread I have to say I'm a little disappointed in the info posted. For instance Grumulkin is loading straight wall and taper wall hulls with the same components which isn't the best practice. While cutting hulls in half to compare the base wad is a good practice it's hardly necessary as there is plenty of info on the web telling you which hulls load the same. One can load any manor of shot shell cheaper than factory if they are willing to buy in bulk and shoot lighter loads of homemade or reclaimed shot.

Don't want to beat your shoulder then look at 1 oz and 7/8 oz payload loads. If you decide to stick with factory shells then don't be afraid of cheap WalMart stuff, guys at my club shoot all manor of loads and the cheap stuff has won more than its fair share of money from the 34 yard line and if you are just shooting 16 yard trap then they will do all you need them to do.
 
I shoot 16 ga and there are not any cheap factory loads like 12 ga, so reloading saves me money, I use rem hulls and federal hulls and use a different powder load that is 2 grains different for each.
 
I used to like 17gr of Red Dot and 1 1/8oz in 12 guage. Shot a lot of these in my Superposed. Fairly light.
I used to own half a a Pacific shotgun shell reloader. My cousin bought my half
when he moved. I really liked it, nice machine.

You may need to search for powder + shot bushings as you will need to change them for different loads.
If anyone here knows where to get them (if available) for a Pacific a link might be helpful for the OP.

A Frankford DS750 scale is inexpensive and will let you measure what charge a bushing is really throwing. (more important powder wise)
 
A Frankford DS750 scale is inexpensive and will let you measure what charge a bushing is really throwing. (more important powder wise)

Yes, and at least with my press, a Ponsness Warren, it takes throwing the shot and powder about 5 times before it's throwing what it will continue to throw for a reloading session.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top