The only .45 brass I don't load is A-Merc. I think A-Merc in Latin means something really, really bad and unprintable.
A lot will depend on your sizing die(s). I've never found .45 brass too thin to reload, but I have several different sizing dies in that caliber, as well as most other pistol calibers I load. You'll find that some of the older brass in R-P and WW is pretty thin, but the newer brass is somewhat thicker.
I've found that the thickest .45 brass is the newer Winchester, with the whole word spelled out on the headstamp. The older WW and WCC brass is somewhat thinner. The next thickest brass is Federal, with PMC right behind it. Speer and Starline are next down in thickness, with R-P bringing up the rear.
In the foreign brass, CBC (Magtech) is pretty good, as well as S&B, but as noted, S&B will have tight primer pockets, but my old Hollywood press primes it without any problems, but my RCBS Rockchucker doesn't do as well. I don't prime any brass on my Hornady Pro-Jector, since I like to feel the primer bottom out when seated, and the single stage presses do that best. I have several hand priming tools, but I still prefer the RCBS and Hollywood presses for that chore, since it's so important.
Back to foreign brass. IMI (TZ & TZZ) isn't bad, with the TZ & TZZ being a little thicker, since it was made for military contracts. The IMI headstamped brass is a little thinner than the military marked brass. PMP, made in South Africa, is a little thinner, about like R-P brass. The Greek brass, marked with Greek figures that appear as nny, seems to vary in thickness. Some is thick and some is thin. My new Springfield XD .45 acp was fired with nny ammunition at the factory and one of the cases accompanied the gun.
Some of the new non-toxic primed brass has small pistol primer pockets, and some of it is crimped. I just remove the crimp and load them with small pistol primers and use the loaded ammunition for plinking. It works fine, as long as you keep them separate. Some foreign .45 brass has used small primers for years, and it all works. You'll also find that some of the non-toxic primed brass from Winchester and Federal has very large flash holes. This isn't a problem and it will load just like the rest of the brass. I've confirmed this with both Winchester and Federal, and have been loading this brass since it first came out.
Some of the "brass" that shouldn't be loaded is A-Merc, as noted, Wolf, which is steel cased, Blazer aluminum, which is Berdan primed and not designed to be reloaded, even with Berdan primers, since they use a unique size primer, and steel cases from World War II, usually marked EW 43. Also, any case that has been seriously deformed shouldn't be reloaded, since the creases cause weak spots in the case walls.
Always inspect your brass for splits and deep dings, and discard those. Recycling is best, since scrap metal prices are going through the roof. Just put the unloadable brass (not steel or aluminum) in a box and when you get enough to make it worthwhile, take it to the scrap dealer and walk away smiling. It's been about 6 months since I took any to the scrap dealer, but I got .94 cents a pound for my scrap brass and spent primers, which was over 300 pounds. I'm told the price has gone up considerably since then. Most dealers will also take aluminum Blazer cases, but they don't pay a lot for them, since the primers are brass and they consider it "dirty" metal, meaning there is another metal mixed with the prime metal. I just hate to see anything go to waste when it can be reused. I even take the steel cases and get about .06 cents a pound for it. Beats throwing it in the trash and the materials are reused.
I'm sure I've missed some issues, but at least hit the highlights.
Hope this helps.
Fred
). Other then that no problem with NT brass. I hand sort by head stamp every piece of brass that crosses my bench anyway.
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