I'll give that a try if you recommend them. I've always been a little dubious about courses outside of a classroom setting, but if the experts here consider them worthwhile, I'll give it a shot. (My trepidation comes from my experiences years ago trying to work on my car just from reading books and magazines. It was for the most part a frustrating experience and I ususally wasn't equipped to finish the job I'd started since somehow it always ended up with something having to be fabricated -- which never got mentioned in any of the books, of course).
Springfield Rant
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I'll give that a try if you recommend them. I've always been a little dubious about courses outside of a classroom setting, but if the experts here consider them worthwhile, I'll give it a shot. (My trepidation comes from my experiences years ago trying to work on my car just from reading books and magazines. It was for the most part a frustrating experience and I ususally wasn't equipped to finish the job I'd started since somehow it always ended up with something having to be fabricated -- which never got mentioned in any of the books, of course).
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Metalwork
Howdy GSB,
Adding to Fuff's suggestions, I'll make another one.
Go buy a set of inexpensive files and stop by your friendly, neighborhood
machine shop. They'll give you some scrap cold-rolled stock. have a
machinist demonstrate the correct way to file to a radius, draw-filing technique, keeping a square corner at 90 degrees, etc. It will take him
about 10 minutes to show you what it would take me 5 pages to explain.
Snoop around until you find an old Thompson Auto-Ordnance at a too-good-to-be-true price, and buy it. You can bet that it's got issues out the
wazoo. Read up on the subject and have at it. If you can make it run,
you'll learn more from that than with a dozen AGI tapes...You'll have
about the same amount of cash in it, and you'll have a beater to shoot to death too.
I learned to do what I do in pretty much the same way. I had guidance
from two who knew the ropse...but they usually let me screw up before they told me what I did wrong.
If and when ya get a beater to practice on, there's an open invitation to
keep my E-mail inbox and my telephone hot with questions.
Luck!
Tuner
Howdy GSB,
Adding to Fuff's suggestions, I'll make another one.
Go buy a set of inexpensive files and stop by your friendly, neighborhood
machine shop. They'll give you some scrap cold-rolled stock. have a
machinist demonstrate the correct way to file to a radius, draw-filing technique, keeping a square corner at 90 degrees, etc. It will take him
about 10 minutes to show you what it would take me 5 pages to explain.
Snoop around until you find an old Thompson Auto-Ordnance at a too-good-to-be-true price, and buy it. You can bet that it's got issues out the
wazoo. Read up on the subject and have at it. If you can make it run,
you'll learn more from that than with a dozen AGI tapes...You'll have
about the same amount of cash in it, and you'll have a beater to shoot to death too.
I learned to do what I do in pretty much the same way. I had guidance
from two who knew the ropse...but they usually let me screw up before they told me what I did wrong.
If and when ya get a beater to practice on, there's an open invitation to
keep my E-mail inbox and my telephone hot with questions.
Luck!
Tuner
PigPen
Member
Well, sadly, too many folks will buy cheap just hoping that they have "beat" the vendor. Then when they learn that they got what they paid for, they squeel like stuck pigs.
I figure that they got what they deserved.
My philosophy is slightly different.....at least in firearms. You see, I buy for a lifetime or more. I figure that my grandchildren will inherit these firearms and I worry that good parts (or any parts for that matter) will not be available. I therefore, try to own quality. If it ain't right, I try to get it fixed now......while I can..........my grandchildren may not be able to buy quality at any price.
In handguns, as in only a few other things at the moment, quality is extremely important..............and so little more.
I own a Springfield. It's a custom Shop piece. I know that on the rack they are competing with junk for sales. Like the man says, "You can pay us now or you can pay us later".
If all of us agreed not to buy junk at any price, this wouldn't be a problem long. Sadly I regret, those days may be behind us now.
PigPen
DHart
Member
Tuner... I haven't thanked you for the Springfield tests you've posted here and the guidance... so thanks a bunch. (I did thank you a couple of years ago for all the help you gave me then when I was trying to sort out some 1911 issues I was having!) 
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
re:
Mighty welcome DHart...As I remember, We weren't able to sort that thing out until ya went in the exact opposite direction that I was tellin' ya to go... Dang pistols are worse'n wimmin for bein' contrary!
There's a little secret behind that period of time...Maybe I'll tell ya about it
sometime...Funny.
Mighty welcome DHart...As I remember, We weren't able to sort that thing out until ya went in the exact opposite direction that I was tellin' ya to go...
Dang pistols are worse'n wimmin for bein' contrary!There's a little secret behind that period of time...Maybe I'll tell ya about it
sometime...Funny.
craig
Member
which extractor
i'm a newbie so here's my question. i have a mil spec loaded i use for backyard practice and back up home defense if i can't get to the shotgun. which model wilson extractor will fit my gun? it hasn't given me any problems in about 500 rounds but i want to be safe. all i found on the wilson sight are various colt series designations. i don't know what series copy my springer is. thanks, craig
i'm a newbie so here's my question. i have a mil spec loaded i use for backyard practice and back up home defense if i can't get to the shotgun. which model wilson extractor will fit my gun? it hasn't given me any problems in about 500 rounds but i want to be safe. all i found on the wilson sight are various colt series designations. i don't know what series copy my springer is. thanks, craig
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
re:
Howdy Craig, and welcome aboard.
I assume that you're talking about a Springfield Mil-Spec...
Yes. A Wilson Bulletproof extractor will work, and it doesn't matter what series extractor. A Series 80 Colt-type extractor will work as well as a
70 or pre-70...with the Series 70 type being correct for the pistol.
If the pistol is a Series 80 Colt, the Series 80 extractor is a must.
The Wilson extractor may require light fitting to the firing pin stop, and
usually requires a little modification at the bottom of the hook for best
function.
The Brown will come closer to dropping in and working after setting the tension, but will probably protrude from the back of the slide a bit, and
require blending and touching up with cold blue...or left in the white
if the pistol is stainless.
The Cylinder & Slide extractor is probably the best of the lot, being true
spring tempered steel of the correct specs, and fits the slide's spec-ed
dimensions...but all that I've used in the last 2 years have overlong
hooks, and won't let the pistol go to battery without modification to the
hook. Not a major job, but it does void their warranty. Rather than send it
straight back for adjustment, I void their warranty regularly.
Be aware that your gun may not have one of the bad ones in it, and may work just fine. You're approaching the round count where the problem usually shows up. At the first sign of a failure to extract or eject correctly,
you might as well save yourself some headaches and replace it with a good one.
Luck!
Tuner
Howdy Craig, and welcome aboard.
I assume that you're talking about a Springfield Mil-Spec...
Yes. A Wilson Bulletproof extractor will work, and it doesn't matter what series extractor. A Series 80 Colt-type extractor will work as well as a
70 or pre-70...with the Series 70 type being correct for the pistol.
If the pistol is a Series 80 Colt, the Series 80 extractor is a must.
The Wilson extractor may require light fitting to the firing pin stop, and
usually requires a little modification at the bottom of the hook for best
function.
The Brown will come closer to dropping in and working after setting the tension, but will probably protrude from the back of the slide a bit, and
require blending and touching up with cold blue...or left in the white
if the pistol is stainless.
The Cylinder & Slide extractor is probably the best of the lot, being true
spring tempered steel of the correct specs, and fits the slide's spec-ed
dimensions...but all that I've used in the last 2 years have overlong
hooks, and won't let the pistol go to battery without modification to the
hook. Not a major job, but it does void their warranty. Rather than send it
straight back for adjustment, I void their warranty regularly.
Be aware that your gun may not have one of the bad ones in it, and may work just fine. You're approaching the round count where the problem usually shows up. At the first sign of a failure to extract or eject correctly,
you might as well save yourself some headaches and replace it with a good one.
Luck!
Tuner
craig
Member
yes, it's a mil spec mod. pb9108l. i guess i'll get a bulletproof extractor to have just in case it does go tango uniform. if i can't install it i can always take it to the local gun dude in pieces . i bought this thing after reading good reveiews on it, guess i should've read some more . thanks for the info. craig
. i bought this thing after reading good reveiews on it, guess i should've read some more . thanks for the info. craig1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Good Reviews
Howdy craig,
The good reviews on the Springfield Mil-Spec and GI Mil-Spec are well founded, and the base guns are solid values that are running from good to excellent...The matter of small parts, and particularly the extractors notwithstanding, the latest Springers are some of the best that I've seen in a while...from anybody. The plain truth is that you're likely to find some of the same issues with anything that you buy in or near that price range...and even in the higher-end guns.
Take heart! We're all in the same boat here. Hopefully, enough feedback
and the manufacturers will provide what we want. They've done it before.
They will build what the market demands...but we've gotta demand it loud and clear, and in sufficient numbers to get their attention.
Luck!
Tuner
Howdy craig,
The good reviews on the Springfield Mil-Spec and GI Mil-Spec are well founded, and the base guns are solid values that are running from good to excellent...The matter of small parts, and particularly the extractors notwithstanding, the latest Springers are some of the best that I've seen in a while...from anybody. The plain truth is that you're likely to find some of the same issues with anything that you buy in or near that price range...and even in the higher-end guns.
Take heart! We're all in the same boat here. Hopefully, enough feedback
and the manufacturers will provide what we want. They've done it before.
They will build what the market demands...but we've gotta demand it loud and clear, and in sufficient numbers to get their attention.
Luck!
Tuner
craig
Member
not running down the gun. it's been almost perfect out of the box. 2 ftf's in the first magazine but no problems since. i just don't want to have to use it as a club if anything happens . i've seen what cheap parts can do.i work for a john deere dealer and their new parts leave a lot to be desired. it takes them about 2 years to fix it. once they end up paying a load of money to replace junk parts they get quality parts. maybe springfield will realize that. craig
. i've seen what cheap parts can do.i work for a john deere dealer and their new parts leave a lot to be desired. it takes them about 2 years to fix it. once they end up paying a load of money to replace junk parts they get quality parts. maybe springfield will realize that. craigGeez, Tuner. You tryin to take all the fun out of buying a pistol?
Shooting is very enjoyable to me, but machines are too. Add reloading, and I can't think of a sport which gives me 3 hobbies all rolled into one.
I would like to see something reasonably priced which would at least have all the basics-preferably all real steel so I can bend the occasional extractor and such, instead of having to buy them. People with life long attachments to pistols are the tinkerers of the world, me thinks.
Shooting is very enjoyable to me, but machines are too. Add reloading, and I can't think of a sport which gives me 3 hobbies all rolled into one.
I would like to see something reasonably priced which would at least have all the basics-preferably all real steel so I can bend the occasional extractor and such, instead of having to buy them. People with life long attachments to pistols are the tinkerers of the world, me thinks.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
re:
Craig said:
Once they end up paying a load of money to replace junk parts they get quality parts. maybe springfield will realize that.
Amen to that! If we get started now, maybe Springfield and Colt and Kimber and...on and on...will wise up.
BTW...STX38 and goin' strong after 12 years. Very few problems.
Impressive tractor..and I worked as a machinist for Gravely back in
'75 for a spell.
Luck!
Tun-r
Craig said:
Once they end up paying a load of money to replace junk parts they get quality parts. maybe springfield will realize that.
Amen to that! If we get started now, maybe Springfield and Colt and Kimber and...on and on...will wise up.
BTW...STX38 and goin' strong after 12 years. Very few problems.
Impressive tractor..and I worked as a machinist for Gravely back in
'75 for a spell.
Luck!
Tun-r
craig
Member
mr. tuner, do you repair/tune 1911's professionally? i'm not too impressed with the local talent here. if you don't, can you recommend someone i can send my gun to for some reliabilty tuning? you know, replacing suspect/ weak parts like that extractor. i'm kinda leery about sending it out but if the person is recommended by this group they should be okay. thanks, craig
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Mr. Tuner???
Howdy craig,
I don't work on pistols professionally any more since I let my FFL go about
15 years past...so I can't accept your pistol through the mail or UPS/FedEx
ground...sorry.
The two main parts...the extractor and the strut...aren't major surgery though, and you can do the switch yourself with a little instruction.
The hammers, sears, and disconnects in the Springfields seem to be
holding up pretty well, and I haven't heard of any problems thus far.
I put mine through a test that I feel would have revealed any problems
that were ready to occur. Even the factory strut held up...but that doesn't
mean that the next one will.
The slidestop did pretty well too, though there were signs of impending faikure after over 5,000 rounds. I'd judge that at about half-life for the part. Slidestops are usually drop-in replacements, and rarely give problems.
Check your E-mail...Subject linearts
Tuner
Howdy craig,
I don't work on pistols professionally any more since I let my FFL go about
15 years past...so I can't accept your pistol through the mail or UPS/FedEx
ground...sorry.
The two main parts...the extractor and the strut...aren't major surgery though, and you can do the switch yourself with a little instruction.
The hammers, sears, and disconnects in the Springfields seem to be
holding up pretty well, and I haven't heard of any problems thus far.
I put mine through a test that I feel would have revealed any problems
that were ready to occur. Even the factory strut held up...but that doesn't
mean that the next one will.
The slidestop did pretty well too, though there were signs of impending faikure after over 5,000 rounds. I'd judge that at about half-life for the part. Slidestops are usually drop-in replacements, and rarely give problems.
Check your E-mail...Subject line
artsTuner
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