Guys, I have been in a streak of bad gun luck. It seems every gun I touch starts falling apart.
I'll start easy.
What type of loc-tite is best for guns, something that you want to stand up to recoil, but ultimately something you can pop open later.
I have an older model taurus revolver, and the ejector rod screws into the ejector star, well, it has been shaking loose. So when the cylinder rotates if it has unscrewed a bit the cylinder will not rotate freely, it of course starts to show up on just one little sweet spot first. I hand tightened it at the range, and all was good, until about 24 shots later (and only using 38s) it started to not rotate real good, catch at one particular place, and I had to retighten it.
So, I want to lock that bad boy down, but who knows when I will need to unscrew it. I know there are different types, or colors, of locktite, what's a good one for guns.
Same gun issue #2
It has, err had, an orange insert on the ramp. Now that is missing. Happened not this range trip, but last. I remember not seeing the orange tip, but I had been shooting a mess of cheap and dirty 38s, american eagle and UMC 38s seem to be real dirty, WWB much less so. Anyways, I remember thinking 'oh must have gotten enough fouling on it to make it less visible' Which, in hind sight well that's REALLY dirty. Turns out it flew off sometime during recoil. Those 125 grain 357s probably loosened it up. I looked around for some plastic that was red or orange to replace it with, the closest I could find was a red coke bottle, the cap and the 'tamper indicator' ring. I snipped the ring and then took a razor blade to it and made an insert, and super-glued it in.
Didn't last 3 rounds. I don't know if the superglue didn't like that type of plastic, or that type of metal, or both.
What kind of glues do gunsmiths use for that type of a project?
Would I just be better off getting some bright red nail polish and using that for both the threads, as well as the front sight?
This revolver I bought used over years ago, the blue was faded, and hasn't improved with age. She is kinda ugly, but whoever had it before me did one hell of a trigger job on her. I had a gunsmith check it out, and he of course safty checked that whoever did the job didn't go too far. He told me that he was suprised to find that it was just fine, and that it was so light and crisp that whoever did it either got EXTREMELY lucky not to go so far as to have light strikes as well as a hammer that could possibly drop if banged hard, or else someone who really really knew what they were doing and how far they could push it. I really don't know anything about trigger jobs, but it sure made sense. Anyways, it is a sweet sweet trigger on an ugly old girl, but I sure do like her. Maybe someday I'll have her reblued, although looking at gander mountain's gunsmith pricelist, that $200, which is twice what I paid for her. Maybe parkerized, that's only $80
I'll start easy.
What type of loc-tite is best for guns, something that you want to stand up to recoil, but ultimately something you can pop open later.
I have an older model taurus revolver, and the ejector rod screws into the ejector star, well, it has been shaking loose. So when the cylinder rotates if it has unscrewed a bit the cylinder will not rotate freely, it of course starts to show up on just one little sweet spot first. I hand tightened it at the range, and all was good, until about 24 shots later (and only using 38s) it started to not rotate real good, catch at one particular place, and I had to retighten it.
So, I want to lock that bad boy down, but who knows when I will need to unscrew it. I know there are different types, or colors, of locktite, what's a good one for guns.
Same gun issue #2
It has, err had, an orange insert on the ramp. Now that is missing. Happened not this range trip, but last. I remember not seeing the orange tip, but I had been shooting a mess of cheap and dirty 38s, american eagle and UMC 38s seem to be real dirty, WWB much less so. Anyways, I remember thinking 'oh must have gotten enough fouling on it to make it less visible' Which, in hind sight well that's REALLY dirty. Turns out it flew off sometime during recoil. Those 125 grain 357s probably loosened it up. I looked around for some plastic that was red or orange to replace it with, the closest I could find was a red coke bottle, the cap and the 'tamper indicator' ring. I snipped the ring and then took a razor blade to it and made an insert, and super-glued it in.
Didn't last 3 rounds. I don't know if the superglue didn't like that type of plastic, or that type of metal, or both.
What kind of glues do gunsmiths use for that type of a project?
Would I just be better off getting some bright red nail polish and using that for both the threads, as well as the front sight?
This revolver I bought used over years ago, the blue was faded, and hasn't improved with age. She is kinda ugly, but whoever had it before me did one hell of a trigger job on her. I had a gunsmith check it out, and he of course safty checked that whoever did the job didn't go too far. He told me that he was suprised to find that it was just fine, and that it was so light and crisp that whoever did it either got EXTREMELY lucky not to go so far as to have light strikes as well as a hammer that could possibly drop if banged hard, or else someone who really really knew what they were doing and how far they could push it. I really don't know anything about trigger jobs, but it sure made sense. Anyways, it is a sweet sweet trigger on an ugly old girl, but I sure do like her. Maybe someday I'll have her reblued, although looking at gander mountain's gunsmith pricelist, that $200, which is twice what I paid for her. Maybe parkerized, that's only $80
(Obscure 
