SW Model 29 Cleaning

[scubadown]

I have a SW Model 29 which I have shot probably 1000 rounds through. Mostly reduced lead loads using either Unique or Trail Boss. Today at the range when I tried to use the gun in single action, the hammer would go back but when the trigger was pulled, the hammer just stayed cocked. If I pushed the hammer forward with my thumb it would decock. It worked fine in double action. It was like there was something binding or a broken spring or grit, that prevented the hammer from falling. Well I shot about 12 rounds through using only double action then it cleared up. I proceeded to shoot probably another 75 rounds without further incident. So now that the gun feels fine and normal I would like to give it a really good cleaning. I have taken the grips off and sprayed WD-40 in every nook and cranny trying to flush out any grit or powder residue. Is there a recommended cleaning procedure, short of disassembling the gun side plates? I have never taken the side plates off a revolver and do not what to bugger it up.

Thanks,

 

[MrBorland]

when I tried to use the gun in single action, the hammer would go back but when the trigger was pulled, the hammer just stayed cocked.

How old is this gun? Does it have a trigger stop? i.e. does it have a little tab behind the trigger like the one in the pic? Could be the trigger stop's mis-adjusted.

If I pushed the hammer forward with my thumb it would decock.

It shouldn't do this. Sounds like someone messed with the action, trying to get it "match grade". A single action trigger that can be "pushed off" is a safety issue. I'm betting the SA trigger is pretty darned light. How's the DA trigger? Could be someone either tried to tune the DA trigger and got the SA trigger too light, or they specifically honed the SA sear. Time for a visit to the gunsmith, methinks.

I have taken the grips off and sprayed WD-40 in every nook and cranny trying to flush out any grit or powder residue.

eh...no. For one things, WD40s neither a cleaner nor a lubricant. It's a Water Displacer. Seems some guys use it on their guns, so I may get flamed, but IMHO, there are much better and more effective things to use. You may find it tough to get it out of the action, too. In addition, simply spraying stuff inside the action doesn't really clean it - it just spreads the dirt & grit around. And the remaining solvent will attract additional dirt & grime.

Is there a recommended cleaning procedure, short of disassembling the gun side plates? I have never taken the side plates off a revolver and do not what to bugger it up.

There are numerous threads about revolver cleaning. Without taking the side plate off (and yes, there is a right and wrong way to do it), I'd refrain from spraying anything else in there. The cleaning that revolvers normally require don't require the side plate to come off.

I doubt that dirt or grit in the action is your problem. More likely a mis-adjustment or a overly aggressive action job. Either way, it'd require a trip to the gunsmith.

 

[scubadown]

Mine is a -3 and does not have the trigger stop.

Let me rephrase what I meant. When you cock the hammer back, then pull the trigger, the hammer wouldn't move until you push the hammer forward. Like it was gummed up.

I has a beautiful trigger, smoother than my Colt Python. I don't think it has had any alterations and is factory stock. Maybe just in need of a good cleaning. I will search on here for a thread on cleaning a revolver.

Thanks

 

[rcmodel]

Check the strain screw located in the bottom front of the steel grip frame. (under the target stocks.)
Make sure is is fully tightened.

WD-40 is fine for flushing out a revolver action.
I use a lot of it in the shop for cleaning old gummed up guns.
Because it is the most effective, non-offensive, harmless solvent you can buy for three bucks a can.

It consists of:
Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 45-50% (Non-aeromatic solvent)
Petroleum Base Oil 15-25% (light oil)
LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 12-18% (mineral oil)
Carbon Dioxide 2-3% (propellent gas)

rc

 

[scubadown]

Thanks,

It seems fine now, flushed it and lubed it. Smooth as a babies butt.

There is a lot of hate for WD40. I have used it for 40+ years will great results, when used not as a lubracant but as a wipe down and cleaner.

 

[BCRider]

I have used it for 40+ years will great results, when used not as a lubracant but as a wipe down and cleaner.

BINGO! When used as a cleaning solvent and light duty rust protection it's fine. It does leave a very light oil film that in rust testing actually stands up pretty well against a lot of other options. A lot of folks think they can use it for everything. And some others think it's useless for anything at all. As usual the truth is somewhere in the middle. It's just a case of recognizing what it is good at and what it is bad at and use it accordingly.

One thing I have found that it's not good at is loosening and flushing away smokeless powder residue. That's where a proper gun solvent comes in.

Oner option for next time is Ed's Red. It's a homebrew mix that does well at flushing away old lube and powder residue and even gets under and loosens minor to medium buildups of lead fouling so that the bronze brush can then push it out of the barrel. And it also leaves a light residue of ATF behind as a rust inhibitor. A google for it will turn up the recipe quickly enough.

Flushing out the action with grips removed by squirting it down through the trigger opening and up through the mainspring opening and in through the trigger to frame gaps while held at various angles will soon flush out the gun fully. You'll see from the darkness of the Ed's as it comes out just how fouled it was. When it flushes out clear then you're done. A plastic polypropylene squirt bottle would work well for doing this. Wear solvent resistant gloves and safety glasses when forcefully flushing the mix through the gun since the acetone is really harsh on the skin and can leach through the skin into the blood stream over time. And it'll obviously sting like the dickens if it gets in your eyes.

I've had great luck with the Ed's mix for general cleaning. For stubborn lead buildups I still resort to Hoppes but generally the Ed's is enough to do a nice job both at flushing the barrels out.

The last batch of Ed's that I mixed up I added a roughly 2 to 3% "dollop" of Mobil 1 synthetic oil. A similar dash of gun oil would work as well. The idea being that the ATF leaves a light rust inhibiting film but doesn't seem to do much for lubrication. The dollop of oil ensures that there's at least a light film of lubrication on the moving parts after the solvents evaporate. To me this part was especially imporant for the revolvers since there's lots of sliding and pivoting surfaces inside that could use the oil that you can't reach without pulling off the sideplate. And I trust the film of gun or synthetic oil more than a film of only ATF for this sort of duty.

Best of all you can keep re-using the Ed's mix by just letting the dirty flushout mix settle in a jar. Once clear again decant the top off into a clean jar. As it's used you'll smell less and less acetone. Adding a bit of extra acetone to the used mix during it's lifespan will rejuvinate it and extend how long you can carry on using it. Once it's totally shot or cloudy then just mix it into any used motor oil and send it off for re-refining.

 

[scubadown]

Thanks for the Ed's Red info. I found it on google and I am going to make some up.