Taurus Small Frame Revolver Tune Up Tips

[BSA1]

I have two Taurus small frame revolvers that I would like to lighten the action on; M-85 38 Spl and 941 22 Magnum.

As with a project such as this the first place I looked is Wolff Springs. Their Shooter's Pak - Reduced Power - contains 1 each 9 pound reduced power hammer spring and 1 each 6.5 and 9 pound reduced power trigger return.

They also state it is not recommended for the 941.

Regarding the reduced power trigger return springs what are the differences?

Why does Taurus not recommend the Shooter’s Pak for the 94/941? I suspect it has to do with the possibility of hammer strike being too light to reliably to fire 22 rimfire cartridges as the trigger pull is so heavy. That said is that really an issue with the reduced power hammer spring?

Any other tune-up tips and/or links?

Thank you.

 

[Old Fuff]

Why does Taurus not recommend the Shooter’s Pak for the 94/941? I suspect it has to do with the possibility of hammer strike being too light to reliably to fire 22 rimfire cartridges as the trigger pull is so heavy. That said is that really an issue with the reduced power hammer spring?

What you suspect is correct. Because of case thickness vs. primers, it is harder to ignite the priming compound in the former rather then the latter.

In both C.F. and R.F. revolvers (especially those with transfer bar safeties) reducing hammer spring tension can lead to misfires and cutting back the trigger return spring is asking for “short stroking,” where the trigger isn’t fully forward when you start to pull it backwards for a subsequent shot, and the action jams. Not good in a defensive weapon but possibly O.K. for other uses.

All this is especially true in the smallest frame snubbies. The trigger has less leverage when it comes to rotating the hammer backwards and the hammer and trigger both rotate in a shorter arc. Thus the requirement for stronger springs.

The best way to smooth the action (which makes it feel lighter) is to buy a set of quality snap-caps (that can be found at www.brownells.com) and then dry fire the revolver about 800 to 1000 times. This will burnish the internal parts at contact points, and not – like polishing might – void the manufacturer’s warrantee.

 

[BSA1]

Interesting but doesn't really solve the problem with the 941. Does the old trick of clipping a coil off the mainspring work? I 'm thinking of buying another mainspring and clipping it until the 22's don't go bang anymore then cut the other mainspring leaving a extra coil.

 

[BBBBill]

Your best chance of long term success with a lighter spring is to ensure that the headspace and end shake are at minimum and consistent on all chambers, that the firing pin has maximum allowable protrusion, that the firing pin tip is properly shaped to maximize the blow to the right spot on the primer, and that you check it regularly to ensure that it stays tuned that way. If the cylinder is moving around with already loose headspace, the firing pin strike will be absorbed by all of that. Bullseye smiths that build 22s for super accuracy figured out the tip shape years ago. They shape the tip to move the strike in away from the very edge as that soaks up the force in crimping the edge of the case. Only then can you expect to be able to reduce the spring rate to some degree with any expectation of reliability.
Your efforts will be compromised by the choice of gun. No one makes any tooling or tune up parts for the Taurus revolvers, so you will have to use the S&W tooling as a pattern for making your own tooling to fit the Taurus and modify or make your own end shake washers, etc. If you have any idea that you might use the gun for self defense purposes, you must inspect it regularly to ensure that it is still tight and not wearing/loosening.
I've achieved great results on S&W J frames using those techniques with no issues, but I do inspect them often.