Trigger Job

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GP100Wii

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Howdy -- recently acquired an SP101 with the bobbed hammer. Since it's DAO, could a trigger job be in order?

I've ready that spring replacements can be a bad idea (it would be a defensive/CC gun) ... but do polish/action jobs affect reliability?

Thanks
 
When it's done right polishing can make the action feel smoother, which is helpful, but it won't make it lighter. When done wrong it can result in ruined lockwork. A truly professional action job will require a lot more then simply polishing a few parts. If you go this route pick the gunsmith carefully.
 
Spriing changes can be trouble if you don't polish the internals. Part of the reason for that heavy spring is to overcome a degree of drag from the generally rough ruger interior. Many gunsmiths will perform a professional action job and polishing and change springs. This is the strategy that Gemini Customs uses - I have an SP101 with a 10 LB Wolf hammer spring from Gemini with 100% ignition and no light primer fstrikes. But this is in the context of professional work. Others using 10 lb springs have reported failure to fire events.

If you trust yourself to do it, there is a mythical text called the IBOK (iowegan book of knowledge) that once found and studied can gift the adventurer with unprecedented wisdom relevant to this quest.
 
Spriing changes can be trouble if you don't polish the internals. Part of the reason for that heavy spring is to overcome a degree of drag from the generally rough ruger interior. Many gunsmiths will perform a professional action job and polishing and change springs. This is the strategy that Gemini Customs uses - I have an SP101 with a 10 LB Wolf hammer spring from Gemini with 100% ignition and no light primer fstrikes. But this is in the context of professional work. Others using 10 lb springs have reported failure to fire events.

If you trust yourself to do it, there is a mythical text called the IBOK (iowegan book of knowledge) that once found and studied can gift the adventurer with unprecedented wisdom relevant to this quest.
Happily for some, the IBOK's text is not mythical; here it is, in all its glory.:
http://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/

I hope that many will copy and save it in their favorites, for posterity's sake.
 
+1 on old Fuff and Tony the Tiger. Also, one can add shims to help eliminate drag and get consistency in the action that are available from:

http://www.triggershims.com/rsa_shims.html

As to spring weights what works depends upon tolerances in the gun and amount of internal drag along with firing pin protrusion (which can be changed by someone knowledgeable). I have a SP101 that was tuned by a well known gunsmith and the trigger pull weight in double action came down from 14 lbs to 9 lbs. By fiddling with springs I brought it down to 8.4 lbs which I think is about the limit with a small frame gun and it worked on various brands of primers. Some gunmiths that work on them are:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/
https://www.geminicustoms.com/
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/
http://tenring.com/
http://www.tjscustomgunworks.com/
http://www.actionsbyt.com/
http://www.magnaport.com/
http://www.pinnacle-guns.com/revolver.asp

If done locally find out specifically what a gunsmith is going to do. You don't want to be paying $100+ for a simple spring change.
 
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I put hammer shims and different springs in mine and stoned the internals myself. It now has a smooth 9.4lb double action pull and 2.6lb single action pull. I've got several hundred rounds through it with zero problems or FTFs.
 
Big ups to Gemini Customs.....

The list of custom shops is good.
For any serious Ruger DA revolver work, Id go directly to Gemini Customs.
I owned a sweet NIB, unfired GPNY .38spl 4" in the mid 2000s. It shot great & I packed it often on security posts(Bianchi Intl UM84R holster).
I considered having some custom work done by Gemini Customs but never got to it. :(

Rusty
 
Shims on these pistols seem to do a lot. Shims and a mild weight drop on the springs gets you a real nice trigger that's reliable and enjoyable. A bit of proper polishing is a nice finishing touch but the shims and springs get you the majority of the way. A professional job will go further, but $25 worth of shims and springs may very well be enough for you to enjoy a reliable trigger. It's where I would start and adjust based on the results you find.
 
The list of custom shops is good.
For any serious Ruger DA revolver work, Id go directly to Gemini Customs.
I owned a sweet NIB, unfired GPNY .38spl 4" in the mid 2000s. It shot great & I packed it often on security posts(Bianchi Intl UM84R holster).
I considered having some custom work done by Gemini Customs but never got to it. :(

Rusty
I have one of those GPNY 38s and I also put springs in it and stoned it a touch. It didn't need any shims at all and is a sweet DAO revolver.
 
Back story....

Mine was produced in 1991 for a limited NYPD run. It was left in a AL warehouse until about 2005, :uhoh: . The FFL holder/gun shop owner told me he was sorting out stacks of old boxes & crates in a storage area then said; what the ___ :eek: . Not a bad offer for $325.00 USD in 2006. ;)
The fact that it was .38spl only & not a .357magnum made it rare but my state mandated .38spl for armed/G security officers.
I considered a CT lasergrip too but I was not that thrilled with the Crimsontrace unit I purchased for my Taurus Protector .357magnum in 2004.
I did put a Hogue Tamer Monogrip on the GPNY that worked great.
 
I put a Pachmyr grip on mine. I bought it used off Gunbroker a year or so ago and have $460 in it not counting the holster.
 
I tune on my own also.
Like was said above get the SP101 Trigger Job printed off to start with.
http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

I slick up the Hammer Opening and the opening the trigger goes through with 400 grit Wet/Dry glued to a Craft Popsickel stick with my K1 blend for Lube.
I stone the sides of the hammer on the ones with polished sides. I also polish the sides of the Hammer Dog. My brand new December 2013 SP101 has a different hammer.
Polish the Hammer Spring Strut. I normally start with a file to clean up the edges, then work to Emery paper, then polish on a buffer wheel.

I have drill bits for every hole and pin size in a DA Ruger. The hex head ones that are quick change. Turn and work back and forth by hand to clean up all holes of burs.

Install the Wolff Springs. The 10 pound hammer spring has always worked for me. You can order the Springs form the Shim Guy below.

I normally put .005 Hammer Shims in, .005 Hammer Dog, and .003 Trigger Shims. The shims keeps the Hammer, Trigger, and Hammer Dog in minimum contact on the sides cutting down on friction. Makes a big difference.
NOTE: I use White Assembly Grease on the shims on the hammer to hold them in place during assembly.
Note: The New Hammer Design mentioned above did not have enough clearance for the .005 Hammer Dog Shims. I will get some thinner ones for it my next order.
http://www.triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html

Go slow, and pay attention. It's Not real hard to work on. Also good practice for cleaning.

20jl5zr.jpg
My Baby. Lett's Style Fancy Rubber Grips with Fancy Fish Scale inserts by Altamont. Gemini Customs "Little Wonder" Fiber Optic front sight.
Rocky Hill Leather Pancake, F Model Jet Loader and a Big Creek Carrier, which I make. F Model Jet Loaders (J Frame/SP101) are available from Pistoleer and Power Custom.

Bob
ICORE MO2908
Big Creek Kydex
 
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