Halo
Member
Another Butch's Bore Shine user here....
Whats a good copper solvent?
- Thread starter kgpcr
- Start date
- Status
BsChoy
Member
I like Sweets for tough deposits but normally I use Gunslick CopperKleenz. I doesn't appear to work but when the patches dry they are bright blue
uk roe hunter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2006
- Messages
- 350
forrest
I used butches for ages, then i changed to forrest bore foam. I can't recomend it highly enough. wait until you clean a barell with it after using butches. it is an eye openner
uk
I used butches for ages, then i changed to forrest bore foam. I can't recomend it highly enough. wait until you clean a barell with it after using butches. it is an eye openner
uk
04JRB
Member
Savage Shooter - I have the same rifle in .223, it fouls after 50 rounds and is the reason of my quest for a good copper solvent/foam. Im jealous that Hoppes works for you, after letting it sit overnight it still wouldnt get the copper out.
K3
Member
Boretech Eliminator
jhansman
Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 1,113
Those of you who use Hoppe's No. 9 exclusively and shoot copper bullets really owe it to yourself to try anything else. Don't get me wrong-I'm a hardcore Hoppe's user from way back, but for lead and copper it doesn't measure up to the dedicated solvents for those metals. I just tried Butch's Bore Shine on my Savage 12VLP, and man, you should have seen how much copper I got out of that bore.
After reading this thread, I stumbled upon this review/test of the previously mentioned KG-12 and how it compares to the better known products; I have no experience with this product, but it certainly looks to be effective:
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
After reading this thread, I stumbled upon this review/test of the previously mentioned KG-12 and how it compares to the better known products; I have no experience with this product, but it certainly looks to be effective:
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
Cougfan2
Member
Shooters choice works for me.
danjet500
Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2008
- Messages
- 118
cp1969 is correct. Ammonia is the agent that does the copper removal. I work in a metallurgical laboratory in a copper producing facility and we us ammonium persulphate to etch our copper based samples. This is a very strong alkali that attacks copper. Any of the solvents that have ammonia as an ingredient will work well. Some may have to soak longer than others to get satisfactory results.
_N4Z_
Member
For copper removal I use either Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10.
Hoppes9 is my every day bore cleaner. It will take copper out if you leave it inside soaking for awhile. Just not as good as the others for that.
Hoppes9 is my every day bore cleaner. It will take copper out if you leave it inside soaking for awhile. Just not as good as the others for that.
personally, i use __________, but it really doesn't matter.
as per danjet500's advice, and others before him, ammonia is what eats the copper up. if your flavor has ammonia, it'll work.
A WARNING TO THOSE WITH CHROME LINED MILITARY OR PRIVATELY LINED BORES...
DO NOT LEAVE AMMONIA IN THESE FOR LONGER THAN IT TAKES TO CLEAN THE BORE.
IT WILL ATTACK THE CHROME LINING ALSO.
an FFL who dealt out of his house in this area used to shoot 1911 competitively at camp perry for about 10 years. back when he did so, lead bullets were all they used. he kept a jar of mercury to soak the bbl in overnight, and after letting it hang an hour or so to let the excess drain back into the jar, he'd run a brush through it. really works, and much easier on the rifling.
keep the brush wrapped up in plastic, or in a jar as a designated mercury brush. wear gloves when handling mercury. spray bbl with cleaning agent over a container to catch remaining mercury. shoot first round UPWIND from firearm at next outing, NOT indoors. application of heat to mercury will make it airborne, and easily inhaled.
READ THIS COMPLETELY BEFORE MESSING WITH MERCURY, IT IS A VERY HAZARDOUS METAL:
http://www.ehs.gatech.edu/Mercury and Compounds.pdf
gunnie
as per danjet500's advice, and others before him, ammonia is what eats the copper up. if your flavor has ammonia, it'll work.
A WARNING TO THOSE WITH CHROME LINED MILITARY OR PRIVATELY LINED BORES...
DO NOT LEAVE AMMONIA IN THESE FOR LONGER THAN IT TAKES TO CLEAN THE BORE.
IT WILL ATTACK THE CHROME LINING ALSO.
an FFL who dealt out of his house in this area used to shoot 1911 competitively at camp perry for about 10 years. back when he did so, lead bullets were all they used. he kept a jar of mercury to soak the bbl in overnight, and after letting it hang an hour or so to let the excess drain back into the jar, he'd run a brush through it. really works, and much easier on the rifling.
keep the brush wrapped up in plastic, or in a jar as a designated mercury brush. wear gloves when handling mercury. spray bbl with cleaning agent over a container to catch remaining mercury. shoot first round UPWIND from firearm at next outing, NOT indoors. application of heat to mercury will make it airborne, and easily inhaled.
READ THIS COMPLETELY BEFORE MESSING WITH MERCURY, IT IS A VERY HAZARDOUS METAL:
http://www.ehs.gatech.edu/Mercury and Compounds.pdf
gunnie
XD-40 Shooter
Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2007
- Messages
- 912
I just ordered 2 bottles of Montana Xtreme copper killer, 4oz bottle, on sale from Midwayusa for $3 each. I haven't used it yet, but I'm sure it will eat the copper.
I also have the Montana Xtreme bore solvent on hand, I agree, that stuff works, but the vapors will clean out your sinuses, lol.
I also have the Montana Xtreme bore solvent on hand, I agree, that stuff works, but the vapors will clean out your sinuses, lol.
tbtrout
Member
I have been using Tetra for years.
In bolt guns, the Milfoam (Forrest, back when a BR shooter turned me on to it) products which are branded/marketed under Hoppes and Gunslick, work best. Check the labels. I have used all that other stinky mess and all I use is the foam now. Saving the liver and kidneys to be killed by something else. Most of the other brands mentioned have been sitting on my shelf for a few years. The foam stuff just flat gets it done. I'll leave it sit for hours and it strips carbon and copper fouling out of the bore effortlessly, no scrubbing/brushing (which has probably damaged more bores than chemicals). I fill the bore up 4-5 times, patch it out and no noticeable carbon deposits ahead of the throat either. It has never done a thing to damage a barrel and the barrels are spotless.
M-Pro 7 products also marketed under Hoppes Elite are made by Pantheon Chemical. I have used the standard cleaners with very good success on many a rifle. Even on an old M1, it stripped it down to the bare metal removing all remnants of cosmo etc. and carbon doesn't stand a chance. It does not work all that well on copper but I'm going to try their copper gel in my gas guns to see how it does as I don't like the foam in the gas systems. By the way these cleaners will attack a wood finish so I cover the stock with a towel.
M-Pro 7 products also marketed under Hoppes Elite are made by Pantheon Chemical. I have used the standard cleaners with very good success on many a rifle. Even on an old M1, it stripped it down to the bare metal removing all remnants of cosmo etc. and carbon doesn't stand a chance. It does not work all that well on copper but I'm going to try their copper gel in my gas guns to see how it does as I don't like the foam in the gas systems. By the way these cleaners will attack a wood finish so I cover the stock with a towel.
280shooter
Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2008
- Messages
- 707
Who uese the Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber 2 in 1 bore cleaner ?
My groups have went down hill.I went all over my Rifle,why is this happening,I thought well maybe its my scope.I just couldnt figure it out,went through all sorts of thoughts,I had did that break in sesson,last fall.did the cleaning,shot it the way they said to do to break in the barrel,did it all.in one day,but my group went down hill.I went out today,it wont group.maybe softball size group,I took this rifle to the work bench,Here it took me 2 hours. to clean the copper out of the barrle,when i thought i got it all.I put another wet patch down it,let it sit for 15 mins,then i used a brush,then patch after patch,untill I finely stoped getting the blue color on my patches,I neevr would have guessed, that i would of had so my copper fouling in this rifle.Now I cant wait to get back to the range to try it out.
I dont know if my bore cleaner is making it,I may have to look for something dif,
My groups have went down hill.I went all over my Rifle,why is this happening,I thought well maybe its my scope.I just couldnt figure it out,went through all sorts of thoughts,I had did that break in sesson,last fall.did the cleaning,shot it the way they said to do to break in the barrel,did it all.in one day,but my group went down hill.I went out today,it wont group.maybe softball size group,I took this rifle to the work bench,Here it took me 2 hours. to clean the copper out of the barrle,when i thought i got it all.I put another wet patch down it,let it sit for 15 mins,then i used a brush,then patch after patch,untill I finely stoped getting the blue color on my patches,I neevr would have guessed, that i would of had so my copper fouling in this rifle.Now I cant wait to get back to the range to try it out.
I dont know if my bore cleaner is making it,I may have to look for something dif,
280shooter
Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2008
- Messages
- 707
this birchwood stuff has a lot of amonia in it,
I will hit the range tomorrow.I need to know if the copper fouling is the problem i m havng keeping a group.This rifle used to shoot 1/2 min before all this fouling,And the next time I clean it,I'll soak the bore,and let it sit for 20 mins,then run patches,but for 2 hours to get it clean,is a tad much,
I will hit the range tomorrow.I need to know if the copper fouling is the problem i m havng keeping a group.This rifle used to shoot 1/2 min before all this fouling,And the next time I clean it,I'll soak the bore,and let it sit for 20 mins,then run patches,but for 2 hours to get it clean,is a tad much,
Wipe Out is now makeing a product called "Patch Out" it`s supposed to be the same as Wipe Out but, you apply it the same as other cleaners and don`t have the possible mess some find with the foam.
http://www.eabco.com/WipePatchout.htm
I have`nt tried it yet, but I plan on it when the can of Wipe Out I`ve got is empty. So far the foam has been the easiest cleaner I`ve used, and works as well or better then any other, except for removeing carbon (JB or Rem Clean is the best for this). I always follow a clean barrel with Butches after useing Wipe Out and find a little more carbon comes out. I think this is from the heavier build up in the throat that needs a bit more work then the rest of the bore.
http://www.eabco.com/WipePatchout.htm
I have`nt tried it yet, but I plan on it when the can of Wipe Out I`ve got is empty. So far the foam has been the easiest cleaner I`ve used, and works as well or better then any other, except for removeing carbon (JB or Rem Clean is the best for this). I always follow a clean barrel with Butches after useing Wipe Out and find a little more carbon comes out. I think this is from the heavier build up in the throat that needs a bit more work then the rest of the bore.
- Status
