Good Ol' Boy
Member
I apologize if this has been discussed but I just stumbled across Po'Boy suppressors and am very interested.
I'd like to hear feedback from any users on here.
I'd like to hear feedback from any users on here.
Po' Boy
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MachIVshooter
Member
I don't have any experience with them, but here are my thoughts based on the available information
1) 25 ounces is friggin' heavy! The only cans I build in that weight range are machine gun rated. Not "full auto rated", but legitimately stands up to heavy full auto fire. I use a monolithic 422 crucible stainless housing (not a tube with a rear cap; I machine it from 1-13/16" solid bar stock) with hardened 17-4 stainless baffles.
2) 4130 is a great material.......if it's heat treated. In the annealed state, it's not really any better than 1018 mild steel
3) 316 is a free machining grade low strength austenic stainless (not hardenable). It's common in cheaper cans, usually for the tube, but I won't use it at all, would rather save weight with 7076-T651 baffles if I don't need the thermal & mechanical properties of martensitic steel alloys or Ti. Except for machine gun cans, I use Ti for all my tubes, and baffles in all my rifle suppressors are hardened 17-4 stainless.
Comparative tensile yield strengths of alloys:
316L stainless: 29,700 PSI
A36 "hardware store" hot rolled steel stock: 36,300 PSI
Grade 9 Ti (3Al-2.5V): 72,500 PSI
7075-T651 Aluminum: 73,000 PSI
4130 quenched & tempered: 78,000 PSI
416 Stainless Tempered: 84,800 PSI
Inconel 718 tempered: 160,000 PSI
Grade 5 Ti (6Al-4V) tempered: 165,000 PSI
17-4 PH H900: 200,000 PSI
YTS (or UTS) are certainly not the only important properties, but it's pretty easy to see that the 300 series stainless grades fall well short of being particularly strong.
Now, if you don't mind a pig of a can and understand that they've cut a lot of cost in materials (and possibly fit & finish), then OK. Personally, if I weren't a manufacturer and wanted an inexpensive 5.56 can , I'd go with either the new TBAC Takedown 556 or an AAC 556SD. Those also make use of 316, but not for the baffles.
1) 25 ounces is friggin' heavy! The only cans I build in that weight range are machine gun rated. Not "full auto rated", but legitimately stands up to heavy full auto fire. I use a monolithic 422 crucible stainless housing (not a tube with a rear cap; I machine it from 1-13/16" solid bar stock) with hardened 17-4 stainless baffles.
2) 4130 is a great material.......if it's heat treated. In the annealed state, it's not really any better than 1018 mild steel
3) 316 is a free machining grade low strength austenic stainless (not hardenable). It's common in cheaper cans, usually for the tube, but I won't use it at all, would rather save weight with 7076-T651 baffles if I don't need the thermal & mechanical properties of martensitic steel alloys or Ti. Except for machine gun cans, I use Ti for all my tubes, and baffles in all my rifle suppressors are hardened 17-4 stainless.
Comparative tensile yield strengths of alloys:
316L stainless: 29,700 PSI
A36 "hardware store" hot rolled steel stock: 36,300 PSI
Grade 9 Ti (3Al-2.5V): 72,500 PSI
7075-T651 Aluminum: 73,000 PSI
4130 quenched & tempered: 78,000 PSI
416 Stainless Tempered: 84,800 PSI
Inconel 718 tempered: 160,000 PSI
Grade 5 Ti (6Al-4V) tempered: 165,000 PSI
17-4 PH H900: 200,000 PSI
YTS (or UTS) are certainly not the only important properties, but it's pretty easy to see that the 300 series stainless grades fall well short of being particularly strong.
Now, if you don't mind a pig of a can and understand that they've cut a lot of cost in materials (and possibly fit & finish), then OK. Personally, if I weren't a manufacturer and wanted an inexpensive 5.56 can , I'd go with either the new TBAC Takedown 556 or an AAC 556SD. Those also make use of 316, but not for the baffles.
dogtown tom
Member
The PoBoy is direct thread, overly heavy and uses plain old washers and spacers for baffles. it is essentially a homemade quality can.
There are faaaaaar better ways to use a $200 NFA tax stamp.
There are faaaaaar better ways to use a $200 NFA tax stamp.
Gtscotty
Member
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- Jul 2, 2007
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All of this plus LOUD, at least on their .30 Cal can, they show 147 dB on a bolt action .308... (And it's even heavier at 29oz).
You didn't say what you were going to use it on, but there are a lot of good deals out there right now on .30 cal and 5.56 cans.
If you wanted direct thread, you could get a 5.56 Griffin GP5 for $395, or a .30 cal GP7 for $464.
If you want QD, you could get a .30 cal YHM Resonator for $370, or a 5.56. YHM Turbo for $295, both of which come with a muzzle brake/flash hider mount in the box.
All of those are quieter, lighter, and made of far better materials like 17-4ph stainless and 718 Inconel.
How important will the few hundred dollar price difference be after you pay for a $200 tax stamp and eagerly waiting for 6-10 months? In my experience it won't matter at all, it's worth springing a little bit extra for something you won't regret once you finally get it.
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