Lever screw defeats screwdriver; what’s next?

Looks like a craftsman screwdriver, use a better one. Some heat u help to.

Is the lever screw in with red Loctite 271? If so maybe use a soldering iron or lighter to gently heat the screw. I use Grace Marlin specific drivers. You might look for a better driver meant for gun screws, not sure if there is a Henry set. And then install this:

https://rangerpointstore.com/Henry-lever-takedown-screw

Gun screws want hollow back screw drivers. Another vote for heat as well as Kroil, as Troy suggests.

Kroil, heat, gunsmith screwdriver which fits it tight is all I got.

Take it to a shop.

With that said I highly suggest buying a set of firearms specific screwdrivers. Wheeler makes a nice set. They even have a screwdriver that you can set the torque on for like mounting scopes and stuff.

SOP for stiff threads:
- find a screwdriver that fits!
- apply oil, with a strong preference for Kroil, but the thinner the better.
-tomorrow, apply more oil, and heat (torch or soldering iron) until the oil is fizzing out of the threads
- unscrew

One more thing, in addition to what has already been mentioned, that may help a bit.

Along with the Kroil-soak & heat add some tapping. A punch a little smaller than the screw-head, preferably a softer metal like brass , used to apply multiple taps (I use a tack hammer).

~15 years ago I was at my wits' end with a recalcitrant receiver screw in one of my milsurps (one of my 03A3s, IIRC).

Perfect-fit screwdriver to which I could slowly & steadily increase torque + Kroil-soak (overnight) + pencil torch applied to screwhead ... no Joy until I added some tapping.

A couple of years ago adding tapping (that time via a spring-loaded center punch) helped me to finally loosen an unresponsive hex screw on an AR gas block.

Good Luck!

Penetrating oil is good but I believe that it has on at least one occasion caused a thread locking compound to degrade and swell making it harder to remove the fastener. I still use it when I’m up a creek though because it’s a proven producer in most situations. I also like an old school manual impact driver. Get it set right and a couple swift raps on the driver typically will create movement and once it wiggles a bit it’s much easier to move by hand. I have Wheeler driver bits and a Wheeler FAT wrench, but very much prefer to use the bits in a socket that is attached to my 1/4” harbor freight torque wrench or a regular ratchet for serious work to break things loose. Another huge item that’s not been mentioned is that when things are stuck really tight, a vice is a must for the gun itself. Last thing anybody wants to do is pop a screw loose and the driver slip and mar the area around the screw.

Get a properly fitting hollow ground bit and then use an impact driver like this after adding just a bit of heat to degrade any locktite that might be in there. You could also use an impact gun but that runs a much bigger risk of either stripping the screw or slipping out.

Try tightening the screw. Sometimes that makes a huge difference. Most of those screws are torqued. They typically aren’t hard to tighten just a little bit more.

This is going to be really funny if they are reversed threads. I don’t think they are.

If there was Locktite applied to that screw to keep it from loosening, heat the thread end of the screw with a pinpoint torch, but not too much heat. It will smoke a bit when heat is removed when it's hot enough to release. Use a tight-fitting gunsmith screwdriver with hardened tip to loosen the bolt.

zdc1775 said:

Get a properly fitting hollow ground bit and then use an impact driver like this after adding just a bit of heat to degrade any locktite that might be in there. You could also use an impact gun but that runs a much bigger risk of either stripping the screw or slipping out.

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I have used that exact variety of manual impact driver. It is extremely similar to the harbor freight variety (once you rip off the rubber on the HF one) that is currently on clearance. It’s one of HFs better tools, and for $8 it’s hard to argue. If you don’t have a manual impact, get one. It’s a tool that is far more useful than most folks would ever imagine, for gun related tasks and other tasks as well. I bought mine while fighting small bolts on a Nissan and I have used it on gun stuff as much as or more than I used it on automotive stuff. https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

If you can find it, I swear by a product called Krax-it. Hapco makes it. I've used it on rusted nuts and bolts and the stuff works great.

Heat it up with blowdryer. Has worked for me in the past on such things.

Howdy

If you want the best hollow ground screwdrivers, Brownells Magna-Tips are the best. If you manage to break or bend the tip off of one, they will send you a replacement free of charge. No other brand does that.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-.../magna-tip-sets/magna-tip-sets-prod41571.aspx

I have a fairly extensive set that I have accumulated over the years, you don't necessarily need this many. You can select what you need from the web page I posted above. Be sure to use a bit that completely fills the slot. Buy a few if you are not sure, they are worth it. Buy the standard screwdriver body that you see in my photo to go with your bits.





All the above methods are good.

The lever screw on most lever guns sits in a threaded through hole, meaning the hole goes all the way through the frame. When applying penetrating fluid, Kroil is the best, be sure to apply it at the screw head and to the threads at the end of the through hole. Give the Kroil time to work. Apply it, then set the gun aside and allow the Kroil to work over night.

Do not use a standard screwdriver for gun screws. You want good quality hollow ground tips that fit perfectly in the slot.

BigBore44 said:

Try tightening the screw. ...

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Excellent!

Something that I always do, but it has long been just an automatic movement.

Akin to what Dad taught me about how to avoid cross-threading screws. Just one more thing that I always do but rarely actually think about.

Never just wade in tightening-down the screw that you are putting back in its hole, always start out slowly turning the screw backwards with very little pressure until you feel it actually "step down" into the thread ... then slowly begin screwing it in until you are sure that all is correct.

heat it up pretty good, then apply the penetrating oil, but mix it 50/50 with a solvent first .. then taking your properly fitted screw driver, apply moderate force both ways, and tap the driver down, repeat this numerous times. if it is just oxidized and stuck, this should break the seal. if it has loctite on it, all bets are off in my book - somoene would know better than me.

any screw or bolt that is stiff stuck, always work it back and forth for a while before trying to get it to turn. when I started doing this my ratio of broken off heads, and like you snapping the tip on a driver, percentage of broken went way down.

WestKentucky said:

I have used that exact variety of manual impact driver. It is extremely similar to the harbor freight variety (once you rip off the rubber on the HF one) that is currently on clearance. It’s one of HFs better tools, and for $8 it’s hard to argue. If you don’t have a manual impact, get one. It’s a tool that is far more useful than most folks would ever imagine, for gun related tasks and other tasks as well. I bought mine while fighting small bolts on a Nissan and I have used it on gun stuff as much as or more than I used it on automotive stuff. https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

Click to expand...

That's what I suggest. Depending one the rifles finish, you may want to use a punch for a heat transfer to the screw instead of direct flame, even with one those pinpoint torches. Kroil is good stuff, soak it overnight.
It is also possible the thread side of the screw is staked, so if you can see the other side, look for the tell tale dimples next to the thread hole

GBExpat said:

One more thing, in addition to what has already been mentioned, that may help a bit.

Along with the Kroil-soak & heat add some tapping. A punch a little smaller than the screw-head, preferably a softer metal like brass , used to apply multiple taps (I use a tack hammer).

~15 years ago I was at my wits' end with a recalcitrant receiver screw in one of my milsurps (one of my 03A3s, IIRC).

Perfect-fit screwdriver to which I could slowly & steadily increase torque + Kroil-soak (overnight) + pencil torch applied to screwhead ... no Joy until I added some tapping.

A couple of years ago adding tapping (that time via a spring-loaded center punch) helped me to finally loosen an unresponsive hex screw on an AR gas block.

Good Luck!

Click to expand...

This guy got it.
Tapping the screw driver works for rusted stuff also.

Gun screwdrivers are made to break before they damage the gun i heard. Another method for smaller screws is to use screw bits in a rachet driver very carefully. Heat tapping and penetrating oil have all helped me. Impact drivers are usually to big for gun screws.