Nipples And Their Use

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Here we will discuss something very close and important to me, thats nipples.
There are long ones, short ones, too skinny ones, some too fat. Some that
have been mushroomed from hitting on them. Guys, you just got to be careful
and treat your nipples proper. I read about using Rem no. 10 for some revolvers, and using no. 11. Some of you have trouble with caps falling into
the action, some you can't hardly get the cap on. I shoot in timed fire matches at the Nationals at Friendship Indiana and I can't have caps falling
off and jamming the action in these revolver matches. Everything must be
and work perfect. No excuses!! You don't see revolvers jamming and caps
falling off there. It's no place for amateurs. Now lets see what we can to
improve things. First when I buy a new revolver, I take out the nipples and
look to see how small the hole is going thru. This should be small like .028 dia.
Then take and put each one in a drill and spin it and polish with 400 grit
paper so a CCI no. 11 cap will slide on and seat all the way with just a small
amount of finger pressure. Then while there in the drill take another drill with
a 1/16 or so bit and drill the cap end out a little like you see in the picture.
This will insure it will fire even with a light hammer strike like we use in compentiton. You want a light hammer strike so as not to disturbe your
sight picture. Never dry fire your nipples, they will last for many many years.
Hope this helps.


0004-2.jpg
 
LOL! Reminds me of when I inadvertantly invented the semi auto percussion revolver....I was just about convinced the holes in the nipples on my '51 Navy had rusted shut, because when I held it up to the light the holes looked much smaller than they did from the outside.I found what looked to be about the right sized drill bit, and ''cleaned'' them tiny holes right out! [not realizing in my youth that the hole gets smaller on purpose to create a venturi effect...] when I touched it off the first time, I noticed the hammer had blown back to full cock! ''Huh'' says I, thinking ''that's odd''...so I touch it off again, and the fire travels around the enlarged holes, setting off every charge, blowing the wedge into low orbit, and I'm standing there, with a colt grip, and frame and cylinder in my fist, and between the toes of my old cowboy boots is my barrel!
That was thirty years ago, but I remember it like it was yesterday. Made quite the impression...
 
Please forgive me. I didn't mean to offend. I understand the importance of this thread, but you know very well you were giggling while writing the first three sentences.

Again please accept my appoligies.
 
How about sealing around the nipples, anyone ever do that? I've been using bore butter to seal them from chain fire, and it helps keep them on when firing no matter what. Am I the only one doing this? I've been searching online but can't find anything else about it.
 
Like kwhi43 said, fit the nipples so the cap is a tight fit and seats completely. Seating completely is very important so you don't lose hammer energy pushing the cap in the last .020-.040.
 
i have not thought this through, so guidance will be appreciated. i am thinking it would only require a minor mod to make nipples that could accept 209 primers, and with a hammer change you could fire the 209 primers.
 
Sometimes when I run in the rain my nipples get rubbed raw and bleed thru my pt shirt. Uh, I mean, i check my nipples for tightness and rust after every trip to the range.
 
birdshot8's said:
i have not thought this through, so guidance will be appreciated. i am thinking it would only require a minor mod to make nipples that could accept 209 primers, and with a hammer change you could fire the 209 primers.
Click to expand...
I do not think there would be enough room on a revolver cylinder for nipples that could use 209 primers.
 
birdshot8's said:
i have not thought this through, so guidance will be appreciated. i am thinking it would only require a minor mod to make nipples that could accept 209 primers, and with a hammer change you could fire the 209 primers.
Click to expand...

A replacement cylinder would probably need to made in order to utilize 209 primers. The cylinder in the photo employs firing pins for that company's Remington smokeless conversion which uses 209 primers.

P1010013.jpg


http://westlakeengineering.com/4640/4694.html
 
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westlakes conversion

Articap, thanks for the link. Westlakes conversion seems to well thought out. More than just simply modifying the nipple design to hold the primer.
 
birdshot8's said:
Articap, thanks for the link. Westlakes conversion seems to well thought out. More than just simply modifying the nipple design to hold the primer.
Click to expand...
The shotgun primer conversion is primarily so that the revolver can use smokeless powder (apparently percussion caps will not reliably ignite nitrocellulose) - the barrel is replaced and the cylinder is specifically machined to accept .38 wadcutters and a small amount of Bullseye/Herco. This is done so it can be used on indoor ranges without the heavy duty ventilation BP or subs would require.
 
Not Hot candle wax! Just rub a cold candle around where the cap joins the nipple. Some people here just do not use common sense.
 
How about sealing around the nipples, anyone ever do that? I've been using bore butter to seal them from chain fire, and it helps keep them on when firing no matter what. Am I the only one doing this? I've been searching online but can't find anything else about it.
Click to expand...

Belay that. I answered my own question today. It actually softens the blow of the hammer even though i tried not to get it on top of the cap. 6 out of 6 chambers failed to fire and the caps just puffed. Removed the cylinder, took off the spent caps, cleared the nipple with a pick, and put fresh caps on. 6 out of 6 fired! No caps fell off either. Need to do more research I guess. Still new to this.
 
Perhaps your right junkman, The ones that did go off just kind of fizzled at best. I'm probably being TOO cautious, worrying about sealing the nipples aren't I.
 
Voodoochile posted a thread about successfully storing his C&B pistols for up to one year by sealing the caps with melted candle wax.

Keeping a Cap & Ball Revolver loaded.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=401991&highlight=wax

Voodoochile said:
...My loads for 3 of my revolvers that from time to time may be loaded for as long as a year "in one case."

Pietta 1858 NMA 5.5" barrel
29gr. FFFG Goex.
220gr. .456 Lee cast Conical lubed with 50/50 Beeswax & Crisco.
Remington #11 caps
Candle Wax melted over the caps to seal
Very effective & quite accurate from this little piece, mostly has been my companion on the club checking traps & stand locations for almost a year now.

Uberti 1858 NMA 8" barrel
29gr. FFFG Goex.
Dry Wool wad.
142gr. .457 Cast Ball
lubed over the ball with 50/50 Beeswax & Crisco.
Remington #11 caps
Candle Wax melted over the caps to seal
My most accurate load & pistol out to 25 yards.

Pietta 1860 Army 8" barrel
25gr. FFFG Goex.
142gr. .457 Cast Ball
lubed over the ball with 50/50 Beeswax & Crisco.
Remington #11 caps
Candle Wax melted over the caps to seal
Been with me for over 25 years & has never failed to fire even after being loaded for over a year including being caught in the rain while working the fields.

So yes with some patience & knowledge you can keep one of these pieces loaded for a long time but just be safe in doing it....
Click to expand...
 
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