Been seeing lots of steel questions lately, from what steel to use to how to hang them.
I thought I'd share what I have and how I use them.
Most of my steel is for rifle, hence why we're in the Rifle Country forum. I shoot these from 25 yards with the AR to 1500 yards with the 338.
I have yet to damage or destroy any pieces.
The key is buying the proper steel (AR 500) and limiting the cartridges to moderate velocity and not using AP/steel core or slugs. Typical thicknesses are 3/8ths or 1/2". Either will work fine, but I find the 3/8ths resonates and provides a positive ring that you can hear to at least 1500 yards....even with plugs in.
I bought what I bought because I shoot on a friends property and we can't leave targets out there. Everything was purchased/built with portability in mind. Sometimes I even take the steel to the local club for some fun at 200y.
First up is my Big Dog Steel squares. From 12x12 to 4x4 this is water jet cut and hard from edge to edge. I primarily shoot the 12x12 and 8x8 but the smaller ones are good out to about 3-400.
I bolt chain to the targets and hang via some steel poles using carabiners to adjust the height and to ensure they're level (I'm OCD like that...lol)
Next up is a scaled up version for the 1500+ yard shooting. Steel is 2x2 feet and I usually spray a 10" circle in the middle giving me a good solid aim point.
As you can see, I pound stakes in the ground and slide some steel poles over them. S-hooks in the top and it holds the steel just fine. I also usually tie off a piece of survey tape to the tall pole so that I can see the wind direction while looking at the target.
This steel was procured from a local steel yard.
I didn't pound the stakes in very far and the one pole started leaning...usually they don't lean at all.
Next is a Salute Products 66" IPSC target in 3/8ths AR 500. It came with a tab on the bottom that fits into their spring loaded base. The base is awesome because it has a small footprint and the spring allows the target to swing to absorb the energy. I believe this target was cut with a laser as some shots on the very edges have left divots. A quick min with the angle grinder and they're no longer sharp.
Also, there is a piece of additional armor on the front of the base to protect the milder steel of the base assembly.
Lastly, I have a really cool piece by Big Dog Steel again. It's was designed by the guys at Snipers Hide. It's two pieces on a portable H-mount that appear like a head and torso. The head is 1/2" while the body is 3/8ths. From the front it looks like a upper half of a person.
From the side you can see what it truly looks like.
The head is offset to the rear to allow for a spring assembly. The spring allows the head to flop back when shot. What I've noticed is the 1/2" doesn't ring, but does move when shot. Whereas the 3/8ths body does ring. The spring behind the head is also adjustable for tension so you can dial it between 223 at 1k and 338 LM at 400y.
After shooting, I just strip and re-paint so we can see our hits. Fluorescent isn't realistic, but in the W. Tx desert, ya gotta do what ya gotta do to see the targets.
Hope this helps with some of your questions and maybe it gave you an idea or two.
Ed
I thought I'd share what I have and how I use them.
Most of my steel is for rifle, hence why we're in the Rifle Country forum. I shoot these from 25 yards with the AR to 1500 yards with the 338.
I have yet to damage or destroy any pieces.
The key is buying the proper steel (AR 500) and limiting the cartridges to moderate velocity and not using AP/steel core or slugs. Typical thicknesses are 3/8ths or 1/2". Either will work fine, but I find the 3/8ths resonates and provides a positive ring that you can hear to at least 1500 yards....even with plugs in.
I bought what I bought because I shoot on a friends property and we can't leave targets out there. Everything was purchased/built with portability in mind. Sometimes I even take the steel to the local club for some fun at 200y.
First up is my Big Dog Steel squares. From 12x12 to 4x4 this is water jet cut and hard from edge to edge. I primarily shoot the 12x12 and 8x8 but the smaller ones are good out to about 3-400.
I bolt chain to the targets and hang via some steel poles using carabiners to adjust the height and to ensure they're level (I'm OCD like that...lol)
Next up is a scaled up version for the 1500+ yard shooting. Steel is 2x2 feet and I usually spray a 10" circle in the middle giving me a good solid aim point.
As you can see, I pound stakes in the ground and slide some steel poles over them. S-hooks in the top and it holds the steel just fine. I also usually tie off a piece of survey tape to the tall pole so that I can see the wind direction while looking at the target.
This steel was procured from a local steel yard.
I didn't pound the stakes in very far and the one pole started leaning...usually they don't lean at all.
Next is a Salute Products 66" IPSC target in 3/8ths AR 500. It came with a tab on the bottom that fits into their spring loaded base. The base is awesome because it has a small footprint and the spring allows the target to swing to absorb the energy. I believe this target was cut with a laser as some shots on the very edges have left divots. A quick min with the angle grinder and they're no longer sharp.
Also, there is a piece of additional armor on the front of the base to protect the milder steel of the base assembly.
Lastly, I have a really cool piece by Big Dog Steel again. It's was designed by the guys at Snipers Hide. It's two pieces on a portable H-mount that appear like a head and torso. The head is 1/2" while the body is 3/8ths. From the front it looks like a upper half of a person.
From the side you can see what it truly looks like.
The head is offset to the rear to allow for a spring assembly. The spring allows the head to flop back when shot. What I've noticed is the 1/2" doesn't ring, but does move when shot. Whereas the 3/8ths body does ring. The spring behind the head is also adjustable for tension so you can dial it between 223 at 1k and 338 LM at 400y.
After shooting, I just strip and re-paint so we can see our hits. Fluorescent isn't realistic, but in the W. Tx desert, ya gotta do what ya gotta do to see the targets.
Hope this helps with some of your questions and maybe it gave you an idea or two.
Ed
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