Got my first M1 Garand
- Thread starter Norom
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xxxleafybugxxx
Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2012
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- 333
A clip of ammo, as in 8 rounds? 
Regardless, sounds like a good buy.
Post pictures
Regardless, sounds like a good buy.
Post pictures
Hardtarget
Member
You will have a load of fun every trip to the range. As you get accustomed to shooting it you'll get better groups and bigger grins. I've had mine for three years now and I think I like it better every trip! My wife thinks I'm nuts.
I hope the guy makes good on his promise to find the extra gear and accessories that go with it. No telling what he'll bring to you! We need pics.
Mark
I hope the guy makes good on his promise to find the extra gear and accessories that go with it. No telling what he'll bring to you! We need pics.
Mark
I love it, question about it though. The trigger is extremely tough to pull during dry fire anyone ever had this problem I dry fired it a bit during inspection at the store and everything seemed fine till I removed the trigger assembly. Then its hard as all hell now a lot of pressure needs to be applied to the left during trigger pull. Anyone know why this could be is it different with the clip in.
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Yea, I got my first M1 in 1962 when I was doing Basic Training in Fort Dix NJ. It sure was sweet to see those pop up targets drop at 300 yards. I'm sure it did the job in WW2!
Ford Prefect
Member
First, go to the CMP site, and download the manual. Perform a function check, clean and lube.
I've cleaned and oiled it. I haven't gotten the manual yet but thank you. Anyone have any idea what can be the problem, placing the trigger assembly back into place and then I will go through the process of dry firing it and then the trigger locks up and alot of pressure is needed to fire it if it does at all, then if it does i need to pull the trigger to the left with the same amount of pressure.
dmazur
Member
Best I can guess without pictures is that one of the pins in the trigger assembly has moved.
AFAIK, the pins are supposed to be retained by the close fit to the stock (that is, the pin can't move L or R without hitting wood).
If the stock is original and just plain worn, or perhaps a replacement that was sanded on in the wrong places, it is possible that the pins aren't retained.
Can you check to see if any of the pins are not flush with the sides of the trigger housing? (One side recessed, other side sticking out...)
AFAIK, the pins are supposed to be retained by the close fit to the stock (that is, the pin can't move L or R without hitting wood).
If the stock is original and just plain worn, or perhaps a replacement that was sanded on in the wrong places, it is possible that the pins aren't retained.
Can you check to see if any of the pins are not flush with the sides of the trigger housing? (One side recessed, other side sticking out...)
So looking at it it looks like the hammer is getting caught on the trigger itself when I place my thumb on the hammer and pull the trigger with the guard closed nothing happens it does not push the hammer enough to move it where it can fire. What can I do to fix this new trigger? Also no pins look to be out of place. And also to get the hammer to move after locking into the trigger I have to get underneath the hammer and push it up, I used my car keys
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Tim the student
Member
Mis spoke on the oil part my mistake it was grease I used just a brain fart moment. I'm just a bit disappointed been waiting for this for a few months now just to find problems with it. But that's what every person should expect with a used item the possibility of problems. schucks
schucksdmazur
Member
It appears that one of the pins isn't flush (see attached picture), and I'm fairly certain if the other side of the pin (L side looking toward muzzle) isn't in the plate, the trigger can bind. What you are describing sounds like bind.
Also, holding the hammer down while you pull the trigger generally makes the sear catch the hammer hooks. It's supposed to do this. It prevents "fully automatic fire", which would be a bad thing.
There's something called a hammer fall test, which I'll try to describe -
Make sure the safety is off. Cock the hammer. Pull the trigger and the hammer should release. Continue holding the trigger all the way back. Then, while holding the trigger, cock the hammer. The hammer hooks should be caught by the sear.
Watch what the hammer does as you slowly release the trigger. The hammer hooks must be handed off from the sear to the trigger.
When you pull the trigger again, the hammer should release.
If the trigger assembly fails the hammer fall test, the rifle should not be fired.
Also, holding the hammer down while you pull the trigger generally makes the sear catch the hammer hooks. It's supposed to do this. It prevents "fully automatic fire", which would be a bad thing.
There's something called a hammer fall test, which I'll try to describe -
Make sure the safety is off. Cock the hammer. Pull the trigger and the hammer should release. Continue holding the trigger all the way back. Then, while holding the trigger, cock the hammer. The hammer hooks should be caught by the sear.
Watch what the hammer does as you slowly release the trigger. The hammer hooks must be handed off from the sear to the trigger.
When you pull the trigger again, the hammer should release.
If the trigger assembly fails the hammer fall test, the rifle should not be fired.
skidooman603
Member
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/striphtml/detailtriggergroup.html
Go here for best trigger info....
Go here for best trigger info....
dmazur
Member
If the hammer fall test is done correctly, a proper trigger assembly should not allow the hammer to fall if the hammer is cocked with the trigger held back and then the trigger is released. The hammer hooks should "transfer" and hold.
So, if this is the case, meaning you released the trigger and the hammer fell, you need to replace/repair the trigger assembly.
They used to be cheap enough to just replace as a unit, but I don't think this is true any more.
Pretty obvious suggestions, I suppose, but if the hammer hooks are sharp and even on both sides (L & R), the trigger/sear is the place to start.
And if both the trigger/sear and hammer hooks look beat up, replace both parts.
So, if this is the case, meaning you released the trigger and the hammer fell, you need to replace/repair the trigger assembly.
They used to be cheap enough to just replace as a unit, but I don't think this is true any more.
Pretty obvious suggestions, I suppose, but if the hammer hooks are sharp and even on both sides (L & R), the trigger/sear is the place to start.
And if both the trigger/sear and hammer hooks look beat up, replace both parts.
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