ar worth the $

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TreeDoc

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Buddy has a pretty worn bushmaster. It's one of the older models with the fixed handle on top. Shoots and groups decent, but has ridden on his atv for awhile. He wants $475.00, good deal or pass, is there things I should look for?
 
If it functions well, go for it.

Only decent things for that price are Del-Ton rifle kits, which don't include the stripped lower.
 
I would think any functioning AR would be worth at least that, and you could probably make some money on it. What is it -- 16", 20"? Heavy barrel, GI barrel? Fixed stock, collapsible stock?
 
Honestly it sounds high to me. Look at it this way. New it would be about $700. If it has been purchased and never fired, I would knock a hundred off of that. Used, more. Used and hammered, more still. If he tried to trade it into a pawn shop, they would hit him at about $250-300. If he tries to sell it, he would be competing with a hundred ads in his local paper for rifles that AREN'T hammered. If it was me? $400 tops. And I mean, VERY tops.
 
Oh, man. That's a tough one. My AR has spent a good deal of time on the back of an ATV as well, so I would't worry too much about what it looks like; but the term "well used" would make me want to take a good look at it.

In spite of being used, has it been well maintained? Playing devil's advocate, let's assume the practical worst, meaning that it hasn't been well maintained, but the barrel isn't shot out. Let's just say for starters that you need a new bolt, buffer spring. That'll run you what, about $75. There might also be a couple of other things wrong with it, so let's assume that you'll have to dump $100 into it altogether, to bring it up to snuff.

As for what you should look for, and I'm only going to mention the major stuff and over look stuff that needs to be very regularly changed anyway.

First, check the bolt for cracks or excessive wear. Check the lugs for how rounded they are and missing lugs. You can scan the web for pics of what a worn bolt looks like.

Check the bolt carrier and see if you can spot anything that looks like a crack, although this is pretty hard to see most of the time, before something bad happens. Check the area in the bolt carrier where the cam pin rides for wear.

I'd run at least a no-go gauge into the chamber to make sure that the barrel isn't excessively worn creating an excessive headspace problem. I usually remove the ejector and extractor to do this.

Triple check the trigger to make sure that the disconnector still does what it's supposed to.

Look at the inside of the receivers to spot areas where the anodizing is removed. It's pretty common to see a groove worn into the upper where the cam pin rides, but large areas of shiny metal may be a sign that the rifle was run a lot while full of sand. Although a properly lubed AR should run with some sand in the action, it still isn't a good thing.

You can also ask him how many rounds he has through it and what sort of maintenance he's done on the rifle.

The above is just what comes to mind, but when I look at a used rifle, I usually field strip it and look at everything. Other than the bolt and headspace, I usually look for signs of wear that may have come from neglect.

Since it's a Bushmaster and has been used as you described, I'd also check the area of the barrel where it meets the gas block/front sight base for rust. The Bushmaster barrels I've seen were not coated under the gas block.

Take the above in light of the fact that you can likely get a brand new Smith Sport for under $700 and have a new rifle with a warranty and a flat top receiver.

I might give him $400 for the rifle in decent condition, if he threw in a few good mags.
 
Shoots and groups decent

You would be hard pressed to find any AR cheaper. If you like the A1 or A2 carry handle it well serve you well.

This is a older A1 Bushmaster, it's been a good shooter with the 20" barrel and 4X Colt scope.

BMA101.jpg

If you are concerned about the finish you could do a diy camo paint job with the Krylon camo colors.
 
That is a tough one, and and if you can get a little range time with it say 60-100 rds. just to make sure you are okay with it than great. However I would be tempted to hold off and save the extra $400-$500 and get a NIB AR of your choosing.
 
I would buy it for 450 assuming its at least in decent condition.....at 450 u are able to replace some stuff if needed and still be ahead also...is it actually worn out has it had 20'000+ rounds though it or is it just look worn out from cosmetic damage..if thats the case then its a good deal...scratches and dings are just character marks..as long as its not cracked u should be fine...and with prices already going up u probably wont find a cheaper one
 
A little duracoat will make it look brand new! 450$ for a ar15 truck gun is not a bad deal.
 
Depends what you want to do with it really. If youre going to want to flat top it, change stocks, sights, paint etc...you might as well just buy an mp15 sport brand new. They go for $599 with all the basics of a modern tact ar15.
 
Thanks for all the info and replies, looked at the rifle again today. Maintenance was pretty poor, lots of grit & grime on the inside. He wouldn't budge off the $475, so I passed. On the ride back home thought about it some, kinda glad he wouldn't come down.
 
If that's all the money you have, and you really want an AR, then do what you have to do. But I'd pass. $450 isn't that far from a new product. give him 150 for the lower, and buy yourself a new upper. just a thought.
 
Thanks for all the info and replies, looked at the rifle again today. Maintenance was pretty poor, lots of grit & grime on the inside. He wouldn't budge off the $475, so I passed. On the ride back home thought about it some, kinda glad he wouldn't come down.

You're probably better off passing on it then. A beat-up and unmaintained AR is no good. You would've ended up spending a few hundred $$ fixing and replacing parts. Not worth it, when you can buy a new AR for under $700
 
Oh, man. That's a tough one. My AR has spent a good deal of time on the back of an ATV as well, so I would't worry too much about what it looks like; but the term "well used" would make me want to take a good look at it.

In spite of being used, has it been well maintained? Playing devil's advocate, let's assume the practical worst, meaning that it hasn't been well maintained, but the barrel isn't shot out. Let's just say for starters that you need a new bolt, buffer spring. That'll run you what, about $75. There might also be a couple of other things wrong with it, so let's assume that you'll have to dump $100 into it altogether, to bring it up to snuff.

As for what you should look for, and I'm only going to mention the major stuff and over look stuff that needs to be very regularly changed anyway.

First, check the bolt for cracks or excessive wear. Check the lugs for how rounded they are and missing lugs. You can scan the web for pics of what a worn bolt looks like.

Check the bolt carrier and see if you can spot anything that looks like a crack, although this is pretty hard to see most of the time, before something bad happens. Check the area in the bolt carrier where the cam pin rides for wear.

I'd run at least a no-go gauge into the chamber to make sure that the barrel isn't excessively worn creating an excessive headspace problem. I usually remove the ejector and extractor to do this.

Triple check the trigger to make sure that the disconnector still does what it's supposed to.

Look at the inside of the receivers to spot areas where the anodizing is removed. It's pretty common to see a groove worn into the upper where the cam pin rides, but large areas of shiny metal may be a sign that the rifle was run a lot while full of sand. Although a properly lubed AR should run with some sand in the action, it still isn't a good thing.

You can also ask him how many rounds he has through it and what sort of maintenance he's done on the rifle.

The above is just what comes to mind, but when I look at a used rifle, I usually field strip it and look at everything. Other than the bolt and headspace, I usually look for signs of wear that may have come from neglect.

Since it's a Bushmaster and has been used as you described, I'd also check the area of the barrel where it meets the gas block/front sight base for rust. The Bushmaster barrels I've seen were not coated under the gas block.

Take the above in light of the fact that you can likely get a brand new Smith Sport for under $700 and have a new rifle with a warranty and a flat top receiver.

I might give him $400 for the rifle in decent condition, if he threw in a few good mags.
+1.
 
Gentlemen, the OP already said that, upon further inspection, the rifle was in bad shape and that he decided against purchasing it. Refer to post 15 for further details.
I think we're good to close this case file.
 
Personally, I would want to put a couple magazines through it were it as ratty as I'm reading it to be and the price was firm at $475.

$475 would buy you a nice new upper with BCG and possibly with money left over for a parts kit to your lower or a few Pmags. If you had misgivings about its condition, you probably did well enough to pass on it. $475 may be a good price on a used AR but it's still a chunk of change.
 
Gentlemen, the OP already said that, upon further inspection, the rifle was in bad shape and that he decided against purchasing it. Refer to post 15 for further details.
I think we're good to close this case file.
This is all very true, but why would you actually read the posts that have already been made???
 
Anyone could build a very nice AR brand new for about $550. $475 is a joke for an old beat up bushmaster. Maybe if it was a colt. I am surprised at all the people who would have jumped on it.
 
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