Case Mouth Uniformer

The AGI video I watched

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Well, thats your problem right there!

Regardless of what your AGI reloading video says:
That is what reloading die sets are used for.

The expander in a two-die rifle set, or three die pistol set makes the case perfectly round and the right size for the bullet after sizing.

There is no such thing as a Case Mouth Uniformer that I ever heard of.
I have on occasion used an old pair of needle nose pliers to straighten out bent case mouths so they would fit in a resizing die.

You do need a chamfering tool, and you do need reloading dies to make case mouths uniform and bur free.

rc

rc won't steer you wrong, he's one of the best on this forum! You can take to the bank what he's telling you, I know!

Without having seen the video you refer to, it sounds like your are describing dedicated neck expanding dies and mandrels. Which are not the same as the expander plug in sizing dies. Offered by Sinclair and K&M, and probably other makers, these typically are replaceable mandrels of different sizes which fit holders that fit in standard loading presses. They are SOP for rounding out and uniforming necks on new brass, which often are dented and misshaped, and especially for expanding necks up from one size to another. The taper and exact size of these mandrels make rounding and expanding case necks much more precise and uniform than expander plugs in sizing dies. Which is why they are routinely used by reloading experts.

I run all new or 100% processed rifle brass through a neck-sizing die, only to make sure the mouths are round.

I found a punch (center punch, pin punch, drift pin, or ball punch, don't matter) with a taper that fit the mouth of the cartridge. It had a slow taper from the shaft back to the main body. Used by hand (push and twist) the punch will straighten, round out the case neck without removing any metal and/or flaring the case too much...

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=RCBS+neck+reamer+die+243+winchester

I have the 243 die, I also have the old Lee Target Model die sets, The RCBS reamer die is an expensive way to go, price does not include the reamer. For me the reamer die has multiple uses, I have formed 22/6mm Wildcat cases from 25/06 and 30/06 cases, forming donuts is not a bad habit for me, I anticipate them,. in my opinion there is not a more accurate method than the neck reamer die, again, the neck reamer die is not for everyone.

F. Guffey

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/CaseFormingAndTrimDies.pdf

Yes.

The neck reamer die is a sizer die without the neck sizer plug, the neck and case body is perfectly centered in the die first then the reamer is centered in the die, before reaming. The die centers the case, the die centers the reamer, removing donuts is a slow going process.

Nothing is done to the outside of the neck. Again, when available the Target Model Dies from Lee are a bargain, a neck reamer is included in each set.

F. Guffey

rc won't steer you wrong, he's one of the best on this forum! You can take to the bank what he's telling you, I know!

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i will second that!

It sounds as though you may be referring to the process of turning the case necks? That process is what makes the neck thickness uniform 360 degrees around the outside. But as RC stated, the internal dimensions are going to be uniformed by the use of the sizing die.

GS

Even after having been fire formed to your chamber it will still be necessary to resize the necks, or you won't have enough neck tension to hold the bullet. And after a couple three neck sizings you'll have to use some means of resetting the shoulders .002"- ish, some times referred to bumping the shoudlers back, or it becomes nearly impossible to chamber them. I use a FL die for this step, but there are other type dies that will take care of the shoulders as well.

GS

man, i think you need to take a step back and read a good reloading manual or two

Seriously, you need to calm down and allow the information to sink in. For your safety, enjoyment, and desired results it would certainly be in your best interest to do some research and reading of good instructional reloading material. It won't benefit you to allow such an enjoyable hobby, such is this one, to get worked up and fruistrated with the process. And more importantly, your safety should be the primary approach to this hobby which rewuires an open mind and the ability to accept the advice and direction those who have been involved in it for decades. In this hobby we are working with pressures that can very easily inflict serious injury, and even sudden death.

Now if you would like to continue learning this hobby, it will greatly benefit you to first pick up a book, or two, that will lay it out for you in very easy to understand termenology and steps. The book that got me going on the right track was the Speer Reloading #10 ( 1st edition ). Although this book, now and then, does not contain a large number of loads, and those that are contained in it's pages are exclusive to Speer bullets and products for the most part. But as to the introduction and even advanced process of reloading, including fire forming brass, and turning necks down, this instructional manual is deffinitely one of the best for a beginner. I would suggest geting this book and several others that will answer just about any question you may have.

And for those difficult circumstances that come up from time to time, we are here to help if you can humble yourself enough to accept our direction and advice. I think I can safely speak for some of us in stating, that in general we will help you to diagnose issues one may encounter from time to time. But as to teaching the process from scratch, it is something that can be better learned through hands on instuction while utilizing an approved video or book that is considered as authentic, and hopefully published by one or more bullet or powder manufacturer sources.

I sincerely hope you don't allow your frustration to stand in the way of one of the most satisfying hobbies that involve the world of shooting sports.

GS

sjohns said:

I found what I wanted. I got a neck expander because I want to make the necks round without resizing. If I have to resize, I can always take that next step.
<snip>

So I have done all the work on the once fired LC 7.62 and sized them to .308 Winchester.

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OK...wait a minute. You got a neck expander because you don't want to resize, but then you say you've sized them? What did you use to size them? If all you're doing is rounding the neck, that's not sizing and you're doing it all wrong. If you've bought once-fired brass you need to FULL LENGTH size every one of them before firing them in your weapon.


Also, what are you firing these in?

1) The rim of the case in the gauge indicates head space. You would adjust that by moving the shoulder. This is accomplished via full length dies, or a body die.
2) If you're gauge indicates trim length by if the necks sticks out the front of the gauge, you would only check that after all sizing is done. That's the last thing you look at.

To simply put the mouths back in shape you could do this


The Redding body die moves the shoulder without touching the neck.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/620746/redding-body-die-308-winchester

Pretty good write up about neck turning. It's recommended that you use a regular old full length die on you brass before neck turning (among other things).
http://www.6mmbr.com/neckturningbasics.html

Video regarding use of a case gauge.