What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

Now and then my wife will buy a specialty grated cheese. It comes in a 1-qt plastic tub with a large snap lid. And it holds 200 45ACP casings for storage / sorting / stacking.

Besides being a brass scrounger at the range I "recycle" the cardboard ammo boxes other shooters throw out. Why buy plastic ammo boxes when these are free?

I prefer CCI 22 ammo in the cardboard boxes. But if you find discarded 100 round plastic packs 2 holders from the 50 round boxes drop right in.

I wanted a primer arm for a used turret press I picked up. Some 1/4" steel, cutoff wheel, and a drill press, and I made one. The sleeves I already had from another broken arm.

An old Dupont IMR 1# metal powder can now holds my Ed's Red solvent.

I thin Lee Liquid Alox with acetone and use it as a supplimental lube on any old cast bullets I buy. It'll dissolve the plastic bottle so it's in an old metal Dupont can also.

I put a HEPA filter in my shop vac for vacuuming up errant spent primers. No use spreading the lead throughout the house with a regular filter.

I sort brass and we feed our dogs yogurt so I have a ready supply of 32 oz plastic containers with snap lids. I also use them for bullets - 500 9mm fit and aren't too heavy if you handle with care. I print labels using white adhesive mailing labels so I can quickly find what I need. Keeps the bench much neater. I also put a label on the top and keep a running total of the contents as I add or use.

Passing on a tip I read elsewhere, when loading shotshells with buckshot and setting the load by counting pellets, use an empty 100 primer tray. Count off the proper number of holes and cover the rest in tape. Dip in and shake off the excess for one pellet per hole.

When loading .38 Special shotshells, use the FCD to re-size the expanded area but don't crimp or use a very light 9 mm taper crimp FCD very carefully. Use a drop of Super Glue to ensure they don't walk out under recoil if you are concerned. Loads are light enough I don't think it is a real problem.

Buy an extra seating die plug and grind it flat with a small chamfer to use for seating wadcutters (and shot shells).

Buy an extra crimp insert for a 9 mm Lee FCD and shorten it a bit. You can use it for a taper crimp when loading plated .38 Special/.357 Magnum bullets. Less chance of damaging the plating.

2"X4" stand for my RCBS Rock Chucker and powder measure - whole thing was free since I had scrap laying around. Make sure to angle brace the legs to the uprights and run the legs back to the back of your bench to keep it from moving around too much - I learned that the hard way and lost half a pound of powder...

Schedule 40 PVC pipe in 3/4" or 1" diameter makes a great monopod/shooting stick. Put a tee and two elbows at the top and a cap on the bottom of the upright, and glue in a matching dowel rod if it's over about 24" high to keep it stiff. A little paint or tape if you camo.

i found an old veeder-root digital counter in some electronics stuff. it'll count up by 1 each time the 9v from the battery is closed across one set of pins. i used velcro to mount a cheap reed switch to the edge of the bench. stuck a magnet on the press so that it goes up next to the reed switch and closes the circuit each time i pull the handle. the counter resets whenever you short across the other set of pins, so i hooked a pushbutton switch up on them. cleaned it up with a terminal strip and stuck it on a piece of 2x4. neat little stroke or round counter.

Screw a set of those old “stand alone” card-file drawers under the reload bench to store die-set boxes.

Use ground to a point dental picks for cleaning media out of flash holes.

To clean/shine tarnished cases, use enough warm/hot water to cover the cases with some citric acid added. You can get citric acid from a drug store or in the canning department of your local supermarket under the name “Fruit Fresh”, or use Kool-aid drink crystals. Citric acid in hot water solution can also be used as a rust remover.

That's neat. I think I would mount it in a little box with the wire under the bench and the counter facing the working position. This was the way to show its workings though, Thanks for the good idea.

Loading BP cartridges on my Dillon

Hello the camp! I've ramped up BP production by putting a Lyman BP measure on my Dillon 550. I rethreaded one of the drop tube links to fit a Lee Powder-Thru belling die, then attached the BP measure. Due to serious CRS, I use a roofing nail to assure I've thrown the charge before seating a boolit. So far, it's working like a champ.
For technicals, the pic shows source of die. I chucked adapter in my drillpress, put die in the dp vise and used a rubber strap wrench to turn the chuck. It worked like I knew what I was doin'--for a change.
For perspective, I used to do the first two stages--size/decap, prime and bell neck--in batches. I then dipped bp charge, placed bullet, then finished the last operations--seat bullet and crimp--enough for fresh ammo at the next match. New procedure cuts tact time in half.
See ya round the campfire. mm

A niffty little trick I've been using for about 30 yrs., is not belling mouths on any of my brass brass, instead I slightly bevel the inside of the mouth to start the bullet straight, and also prevent it from shaving the bullets, or buckling the brass.

Since their is no belling of the case mouth, the need to use a crimp on auto loading brass such as 9mm and any other cartridges that head space off the mouth is completely eliminated. Obviously a crimp is still needed for cases that head space off the case head, but it helps to eliminate issues some have with over belling mouths from time to time.

The only exception would be when loading non jacketed bullets. I do however use this same method for plated bullets such as Speer Gold Dots. I have never had a single problem since I began doing it this way.

GS

One thing I have found to have is my laminator. Find good info online, print it, laminate it and put in the library box on bench.

Endless Powder Bowl

Endless powder bowl.

This would be useful for loaders who use a dipper (commercially made or home-made) to dole out their powder (either directly into their cases or into a scale for "trickling up" to weight).

It keeps itself filled by gravity and empties itself back into the powder jug when you put it away.

Never have to refill it. Never return powder to the wrong jug.

I have not built a prototype yet, but am getting close.

It works like this:

Secure the bowl (upside down) atop your powder container (bottle, jug or keg). When you invert the assembly, gravity keeps the bowl filled as you use a dipper to dole out powder.

When you are done, turn the assembly upright. The powder flows back into the container by gravity.

Thus, there is no risk of returning powder back into the wrong container. The bowl never runs out of powder (until the jug goes empty, of course).

Would there be a market for such a device? Anyone interested in plans (once I get them drawn)?

I picure the market would be anyone who uses dippers and is irritated about constantly having to refill their powder bowl or paranoid about returning powder to the wrong original container.

I appreciate any feedback, on the thread or by PM.

Thanks for reading.

Lost Sheep

That a 1/4-20 Bolt is the perfect size to screwjack a stuck 30-06 case out of a resizing die.

Remove said die from press, drill & tap up through primer pocket for thread as above, use socket as a spacer/bearing surface and tighten bolt. Case pops out real nice.

(Lube threads with motor oil prior to extraction.)

My reloading area is now quite bright with the twin T-8 fluorescent fixture plus four, 13-watt CFL clamp-ons above it. So at about the same time I added the third and fourth CFL's I also installed a rope light to illuminate the two shelf areas below:



It is REALLY nice to be able to see what is below, without squinting.

*deleted*

Apparently, junk science ! NM !

This is my counter on my Rockchucker just a little mechanical counter mounted so I Can swing it out of the way if I don’t want to count.




This was not my idea I ran across it on you tube for cleaning primer pockets, but it Works for uniforming also. It is just a Styrofoam insert from a 20 round ammo box between 2 pieces of wood, and a support peace below it. Then tighten to hold. I chuck a Lyman primer uniformer in the cordless drill and go for it.
Did 200 rounds in no time. Much much better than one at a time.

The stainless steel media in a Thumlers Tumbler drum will stay wet for months.

But is will dry out in a day with 3 paper towels acting as a siphon wick.

I get the towel under the media, up over the lip, and then down lower than the media.
The paper towel will air dry [unlike media] and then suck more liquid down to up and over and down lower to air dry.

Anyone Stripped the holes in the Lee Auto Disk Powder Hopper?

If you strip out the holes in your Standard Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure, you can fix it up better than new (but perhaps not as good as the Pro Hopper, I admit):

Get some 1/8" diameter stock (0.125") or 7/64" maybe. I have seen coat hangar wire up to 0.11" which might do, too, but most of the typical stuff is only .08" and might not be stiff enough or hole-filling enough.

Note out how far the wires go in the holes.

Wrap the wire with tape below that point, enough to be a tight fit in the mounting holes in the powder measure body, but not so tight that you will have trouble inserting it quickly.

The wires should be long enough to stick out the other end of the holes in the powder measure body (you may have to push on them to separate the hopper from the body if the glue sticks. A half-inch or so will do, you can cut it shorter later if you want.

Optional: Put a little silicone grease on the measure's body near the holes to prevent the glue from sticking to it.

Put plastic cement or cyanoacrylate glue on the end of the wire and put some of the same glue in the stripped out holes in the powder measure hopper (you can do this one hole at a time if you want).

Quickly assemble the whole powder measure and let the glue set.

If you used threaded stock, you could thread a knurled nut onto the rod and you have an approximation of the principal advantage of the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Hopper (without the larger capacity or the elastomer "wiper").

If you used plain stock, you have some more steps to do.

Form two square double hooks ("S" hook) of 1/8" or 7/64" diameter stock. One of the openings of the hook should be the thickness of the powder hopper, about .0875" to .9", but a little too large would not be critical. The opposing opening of the double hook should be large enough to accomodate your rubber band.

Cut a 1/8" slot in the lip of the powder hopper cover, enough that you can hook the "S" hooks on each side of the hopper and still be able to remove and replace the cover. The slot, of course should line up with the mount holes of the hopper.

Attach a rubber band (each) to the other end of the two "S" hooks.

Stretch the rubber band down to the 1/8" diameter plain stock that is sticking out of the holes in the powder measure body and loop it over. If it's too short, get a longer one or fashion an extension with a string or something. If too long, double loop it.

I have not done this, as I have not yet stripped the threads on my powder hopper.

Another option: If (before you do this) you file some of the material off the bottom of your powder hopper, you might possibly cure some degree of powder leakage (if you have any that is due to excess clearance between the bottom of the hopper and the top of the disk).

Has anyone done this before?

If you mail me your tired, stripped out powder hopper, I will try it and let you know if it works.

I composed this before I checked on the price of a replacement hopper ($2.99) so now it seems hardly worth it.

But, if you are in a pinch and have some coathangar wire around, it might be.

Lost Sheep

Primer Flipper Trays

Ever get irritated at those primer flippers? Supposedly those ridges will turn the primers anvil up and then you can simply put the lid on and flip over the whole tray. However.... Just when you're about to flip the last primer over, another one seems to turn over the wrong way. It can be aggravating.

I had a "duh moment" recently. I just put the primers in the tray as one would normally do. Then I pick up the primers that are anvil down with the primer tube. Now I put the lid on and flip over the tray and continue picking up primers. I don't know why I didn't think of that 20 years ago!

:banghead:

When loading jacketed bullets for auto loading cartridges such as 9mm and 40 S&W, I have never had to bell my case mouths or use the crimp. I first chamfer the inside of the mouths a nice bit to allow for straight seating and no shaving, and then I seat the bullet without having to taper crimp. This has worked well for me for over 30 yrs. and has virtually eliminated the need to bell, thus eliminating the need to use a crimp to close the bell. I've also found that my brass will last a bit longer, I get maximum neck tension, and it speeds up the loading process some as well.

I've turned quite a few reloaders on to this method over the years and all have found it to work well for them. It does work for plated bullets if the inside of the mouths are chamfered properly. But for non jacketed lead, it could be a problem I would imagine.

GS

After necking down 308 brass to 260 with a home made 0.299" neck die, the brass would not go into a Lee 260 Collet Neck die without getting squished.

I took the collet die apart, pried the collet tines apart with a screwdriver, and then the brass would go in the die.

I had a piece of 1x2 laying around (maple). I drilled a hole in it and now it is a washer for the Lyman tumbler.

I have a Lyman tumbler whose lid is not solid but "louvered," allowing dust to escape during tumbling. I discovered an old give away flying disk toy that fits over the Lyman lid. I used a heavily beveled case neck to press a hole in the center of the disk to fit over the tumbler's center bolt. Placed over the factory lid, this closes off the louvers and keeps the dust inside the tumbler.

I bought a pair of Bell (fingerless) bicycle gloves at WalMart for use a shooting gloves, and the padded palms really help when shooting .357 Magnum loads.

They work even better when reloading. I use a Lee turret press and I put the right hand glove on and it makes it so much easier to work the lever. It slides on the wooden ball on the end of the lever, avoiding bisters on your palm, and it cushions you palm as well. Seems to make it easier to pull as well. Wish I had thought to use it a few thousand lever pulls ago!

Coca-Cola will eat hard carbon from primer pockets. Soak in a plastic cup for a couple of hours, then rinse with boiling water. Any super hard carbon will now be soft and wipe right out with a Q-Tip.

Denatured Alcohol and a rag, will clean any sort of lube or grease off brass or bullets and evaporate soon there after.

A once used anti-static dryer towel will take away any static cling inside your power thower tube or other plastic parts like powder pans. Just wipe the surface with a once used dryer towel.

Mark several lines around the sides of taper crimp dies. They can be tuned to just the right amount of crimp and it makes a bigger difference then you think in velocity and accuracy if you are too tight or too loose. If you are affraid of your Sharpe Pen marks wearing off, take a thin cutting wheel on your dremil tool and cut a few shallow lines as adjsutemnt marks.

Comments on post from Float Pilot

Float Pilot said:

Coca-Cola Denatured Alcohol and a rag, will clean any sort of lube or grease off brass or bullets and evaporate soon thereafter.

Click to expand...

As I understand it, Cola has, its primary dissolving ingredients, Phosphoric Acid and Carbolic (or or is Carbonic) acid. Acetic acid (also known as White Vinegar) might work as well. But NEVER use ammonia as a brass cleaning agent, as it will chemically interact and weaken the brass.

Popular science has it that Coca Cola (and many other sodas) will dissolve teeth and other things pretty fast), Usually cited by people concerned about dental health. They have good evidence. Brass, however, is not dentin.

"Denatured Alcohol and a rag", will clean any sort of lube or grease off brass or bullets and evaporate soon there after.

Click to expand...

Only if you rinse.

If you don't rinse (or wipe, as Float Pilot suggests) the dissolved gunk will still be there (re-deposit or precipitate, as the chemistry defines) and leave you wanting.

Float Pilot, your post is excellent. I just wanted to weigh in on some caveats that might be appropriate.

Lost sheep

For single-shot rifles, I make chamber guides/throat protector from drilled out case head for slip-fit on cleaning rod. On larger calibers, I bush case mouth with turned up brass bushing Lock-Tite or soft solder in place.
I even do this for vintage rimfires..some of those extractors are sharp as razors & will peel a coated rod 1st. time thru!
Nylon or delrin plugs fitted into primer pockets for snap-caps.