Recent content by gamachinist

Truthfully, I have no idea of the cfm rating. I've always been a little short on pressure.Right now I'm running to compressors to keep the pressure up enough. I need to change the motor pulley on my big Curtis to spedd it back up some.It was to fast,and when I replaced the motor I slowed it...

Come by here and visit: http://www.roderuscustom.tzo.com/

Can you use a medium sized gasoline powered portable compressor?

Is it marked 308 Win or 7.62 Nato on the barrel? Could it have been rechambered in 30-06 (7.62x63mm) instead? In the 1960's,30-06 was probably more popular than 308 Win.It was in the 1970's when I started shooting.

Check in over here: http://doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php I'm pretty sure someone there can refer you to someone stateside.

The safties on all my 03 and 03A3's are fairly stiff. It actually has three positions: Left or 9:00 is fire, Straight up or 12:00 is safe with the striker locked but the bolt is unlocked allowing it to move to empty the magazine, Right or 3:00 locks the striker and the bolt.

I don't know the wall thickness of your barrel. I'm not sure if there is enough for a liner. Maybe reboring to 50-70 would be a better choice? That would better preserve the original look of the muzzle. An internet search should turn up several companies to do it.

You could probably get a 6-48 Helicoil kit,but...... it will be a special order item and rather expensive. If it stripped out a 6-48 from recoil,I's also recomend going to 8-40's. For what it's worth,I've found that I can buy common sizes Heli Coil kits at auto prts stores for far less...

If you can't find Kroil,try PB Blaster. You can find that at a lot of auto parts stores,and will work pretty well for this application.

If the anonymous donor is real,Soros would be my first guess also. But he hasn't been shy before in his donations,so why now? I wouldn't be surprised if the anonymous donor is just a ploy.

Run the moveable jaw up until it just touches and hold them up to the light.

Most of my non gun tapping is done in the drilling machine.Sometimes under power,sometimes by hand in the drill chuck,sometimes guided by a center in the spindle in the center in back of the tap. All of my gun tapping is done in the machine,so I can make sure it starts true. Onmilo wrote...

As far as I know, TIG weld the holes,grind/file/sand flush top and bottom,reweld any porous areas if needed and refinish. The receiver is too thin to get a good threaded plug to stay put,unless you peen them into place like a rivit,swelling them out into the threads to make them fit...

Good point about starting with a taper tap Onmilo. I didn't have my brain in "gunsmithing" mode.I was thinking about the cast iron and aluminum I usually work with. I do have three tap sets for everything under 3/8",and some in larger sizes also.

The "taper" refers to the end of the tap that starts the hole. There are three common hand tap types: Taper taps have the first five or six threads mostly removed,and are usually used first to start the threads. Plug taps have only two or three threads removed (and have less taper to...