Recent content by mtlucas0311

I agree that if you just want to shoot, then go out and shoot, but if you want to be competitive and pick up leg points you are at a serious disadvantage without a hardback coat and glove. You certainly don't need them for recoil, why not take that expensive piece of gear off the cart if you're...

I've cleaned a ton of brass and many of my smaller gun parts, like trigger assemblies, bolts/carriers, slides, etc. with very good results. I'm just using the $70 Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner, and have been for a couple years. I'm pry going to get a larger more powerful unit in the near...

Your title and posts indicate that budget is a key consideration on what you buy. If you really want to save money, just start reloading right out of the gates. Match ammo is anything but cheap. It ranges from $1-$2 per shot from what I've seen, reloading is a fraction of that. You can get a Lee...

BLO makes the stock look nice and is fine if you're only shooting on bluebird days where moisture protection isn't a concern. If you're planning on shooting matches, etc. I'd recommend Teak oil. It's easy to apply, can be rubbed into the wood for an original look or can easily be built up into a...

I've gone to Perry for the last 8 or so straight years for pistol week and at least a few days of rifle week. I started going to Perry around 86' or 87' as a kid (got a little "distracted" in my late teen years and 20's). I'm lucky enough to live about 2 hours away so the commute isn't to bad...

I would be very proud of that level of skill too, those kinds of scores would make you arguably one of the best revolver shooters in the country. I must admit that I am a skeptical person though, especially on Internet forums. I wasn't trying to attack or discredit you in my post, I don't have...

If you're only dropping 4 points in timed and rapid on average, you'd be winning the Harry Reeves and Distinguished revolver match at Perry even with a mediocre slow fire score.

A PPC gun isn't a good choice for bullseye. I'm not sure how modified your revolver is, but if you've got a bull barrel you won't enjoy hanging it out there. Since you're comfortable with irons the easiest path is to find an old 1911 leg gun. There have been several old Giles 1911's on GB lately...

You're just regurgitating crap you've read on the Internet. You stated yourself that you believe most engagements occur between 100 and 300 yards. If you don't think an ACOG is a tremendous advantage over iron sights at those distances to engage combatants that appear, fire, and disappear...

You really don't need to use more than a 69 grain bullet up to 300 yards. So if you really want an AK in .223, the 1:9 is fine. I've never bothered trying an AK past there because it's not terribly accurate anyway. It seems like your too focused on the ballistics tables out at distances your...

Finding a pre-war barrel and op rod in serviceable condition is going to be a tall order and certainly cost a premium. Are you just looking for the parts to be correct, or is this a rifle you also want to shoot? Have you tried the CMP forum? That's the largest collection of Garand collectors on...

Looks like it's not finish reamed. Are you sure you bought a drop in barrel and not one that's short chambered?

You could always buy a nice replacement wood stock and drill that. You can get decent looking walnut replacement wood for less than the value you'll lose by drilling the original stock. Regards, Mike

In my opinion, this is the best deal out there for match grade 30-06 specifically for the M1 Garand...the brass alone is almost worth it. My partner for vintage sniper bought a case, it fired superbly. Big surprise, from the CMP...

Tcoz brought up some great points about cleaning and greasing the Garand, here's a really good link about how and were to apply the grease: http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease I also agree about using the Mobil1 synthetic grease. A friend I shoot service rifle with is an engineer...