Thanks for the answers.
I just spend most of the lunch hour stuffing foil inside and have pretty close to a .007" gap now. I notice that before I could push the wedge in and out by hand. Now I can't as it's much tighter, more like the other 1860.
I had tried swapping cylinders last night...
I just picked up a second Uberti Colt 1860 revolver. The first one has a cylinder gap of .018" and this second one is so tight I can't get a feeler gauge in-between the barrel and the cylinder. Assembled and without the wedge, it's already touching. There is no front-back play in the cylinder...
I'd like to thank Hellgate for meeting up with me at the range this afternoon to troubleshoot the revolver. He is a wealth of knowledge and spent over 3 hours with me going over everything and more about blackpowder shooting.
His Remington #10 and #11 caps worked perfectly, so then he had me...
Today I went to the gunshow in Portland Oregon and searched out the old parts dealer. I asked about old Colt SAA revolver parts. He said he only had a few and pulled out an old box with assorted Colt Single Action Army parts. Among them I found a couple of old mainsprings.
For measurements, on...
The spring is bending back to it's original shape now, just from cocking the hammer.
Since I don't have any leather handy I tried a piece of rubber under the spring. It helps, but is still not 100%. I think the spring is made from too weak of a metal.
Most of the caps I've tried are CCI #11's...
I did a search over there and it does seem to be a common enough problem with the newer Uberti mainsprings. I posted over there too.
One guy said he bought a reduced power spring and it had more power than the factory Uberti.
I picked up a Uberti replica of a Colt 1860 revolver about 5 years ago. It was a disappointment and not much fun to shoot. It would often take 2 or 3 hits from the hammer for the caps to ignite. Over the years I've tried different nipples, including Ampco and others trying to get a perfect fit...
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