Cheek weld prone vs. bench

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jlr1962

jlr1962

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My cheek weld height needs change significantly between prone and bench. Do most of you compromise one for the other, or use an adjustable cheek piece of some kind?
I have a basic b&c medallist "tactical" that works very well for me from a bench. I am unable to get the same sight picture prone in a comfortable/natural position.
 
It all depends on the type shooting you do. Set it up for the type of shooting you do the most whether that's prone or on a bench.
 
Using an adjustable comb is best. It will allow you to shoot prone or off the bench with the correct sight picture.

I happen to be a DIY'er and like doing things my self. I have experimented in making different types of adjustable comb types.

First is a simple Kydex slip over type. It cost about $10 in material.

10FP1_zpsb8zjg72p.jpg

Second is a adjustable post type. Material is about $10 also but requires machine work and more time.
282G_zpsb852fad7.jpg

Third is a thumb wheel type. Again about $10 in material but more time machining the hardware.

_MG_2333_zps895c5778.jpg

All of these types and a few more can be store bought and installed by a professional if you choose not to do it yourself.
 
Thanks folks. I need to do something. I am not much of a machinist. I might buy another stock and move this to another rifle due for a decent stock that I won't shoot prone.
The b&c with an adjustable cheek weld height looks reasonable.
I hope it can take adjustments without much damage to adjustment points like set screws cause on some tools I use.
Thanks again.
 
do a google image search for "3p rifle stock" and you'll see how some rifles that are specifically designed for sitting/kneeling/standing style competitions, allow users to quickly adjust LOP and riser/comb height between a few pre-set choices. i THINK the whiskey 3 chassis has this ability as well. and there may be some obscure butts for rifles like the tubb2k that allow this.

for more general purpose matches and usage, where there are an infinite number of positions/barricades/etc you could shoot from, most people just use an adjustable stock and lock it on one setting that is a reasonable compromise, but generally favors the position they think they'll use most (e.g. prone)
 
Pintler

I use stainless steel carriage bolts. They have a square shoulder on them so they they can't turn in the slots. I face the head off so it is thin and doesn't stick out much at all., I make the nut out of aluminum and knurl it so it's finger adjustable. I cerakote the hardware Graphite Black so it blends in with the Kydex. Look at eBay as Kydex is cheap.

Here is one I made for a friend that shows the other side.

IMG_3465_zpsnjwdsq0o.jpg
 
doubleA, I might try that before throwing down more money. I have a neoprene wrap thing with padding that would cover my error if I fail. I have kydex holsters. Some are stronger than others. Is there a specific model number or thickness? There is an old school hardware store close by for the hardware.
You all are great. I have learned how to shoot better mostly from this board and guidance posted for others with similar problems to my own.
 
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