Bushnell TRS-25 questions

The medium riser will give you absolute co-witness, so that if you aim with your iron sights, the red dot will appear on top of the front post in the middle of the tube.

The high riser will give you a lower 1/3 co-witness, so that if you aim with your iron sights, the red dot will appear on top of the front post in the lower half of the tube. So when place the red dot in the middle of the tube, the gun will still be on target, but now clear of the front post and you will have a clearer view of the target. Your cheek weld will need to be slightly higher to get the red dot in the middle of the tube.

Yes, the irons never move. They stay zeroed for the range you choose.

The choice in riser is personal. Some like absolute because they want the same cheek weld, whether they shoot irons or red dot. Some like lower 1/3 because they want the red dot to be above the front sight post and have a clearer view of the target at the expense of having a slightly different cheek weld as compared their iron sights cheek weld.

I think if you did a poll, most would say they prefer lower 1/3 co-witness.

or just mount on a 45* and roll the weapon to use iron or red dot

I like mine to absolute co-witness. But my front sight flips down out of the way.

I prefer 1/3. http://progunfighter.com/co-witness/

Howdy, imashooter! Long time no see.

With the high riser, irons sights are almost un-usable. You can kind of get a sight picture, but the majority of your field of view is taken up by the body of the TRS25 itself. If you have plans of using irons with the red dot mounted, don't go for the high rise mount.

With fixed iron I prefer a 1/3rd. With folding sights, I prefer absolutes. With the TRS-25, there is a difference between the newer models and the older models. The dot disappears when it approaches the top of the field of view on the new ones.

4evernbljns said:

or just mount on a 45* and roll the weapon to use iron or red dot

Click to expand...

What he said?

I have numerous TRS-25's, but none on an AR (that I can think of). You might have been better off getting without the fixed front sight post is you knew you were going to install optics, but that ship has sailed.

I have a 15-22 that I've set up like a poor man's 3-Gun rig.
I've got a scope on it for distance work, and installed a Weaver Offset Rail Adapter with a Burris Fastfire III and the Burris Picatinny Protector for close up shots.

Rolling the gun to sight down the red dot mounted at 1 o'clock is fast and natural - never have to change my cheek weld.

I use co witness on my Bushnell TRS-25 and AR setup. It is what I am used to. When the Army started using red dots and backup iron sights, they were all in line with each other. My TRS-25 did not come with the riser so I bought a 3/4" riser off Botach(I think) for less than 10 bucks. Lined up everything perfectly with my Matech backup irons.

Jimster said:

Howdy, imashooter! Long time no see.

Click to expand...

Hey buddy.

Well, you have a standard A2 front sight/gas block. So it will always be in the sight picture somewhere, unless you go ridiculously high. But it should not be an issue if it's in the lower 1/3. So get a fold down rear sight while you are getting used to everything and keep it out of the way, or remove it for now.

You can add a magnifier with your Red Dot. Or you can pull that one off and get something with magnification and a red dot.

Say you had a flat top w/o the standard front sight. You could add something like a Leupold VX-R Patrol 1.25x4-20. That would give you the option of dialing back to 1.25 which looks very much like 1:1 to most folks. It has a tiny Red Dot called a fire dot. That works for close-in work because you shoot with both eyes open and that red dot will always be in the image. If it's on target, shoot.

It also has a black circle and black cross hairs for when you don't want the red dot active. And dialed up to 4X it will give you a decent picture at the range. That would have been the build to go for if you want real magnification and close quarters capability... The scope is $450'ish on the street.

But since you have the standard front sight, we need another work around. 1.) You know the military trains with irons on a carry handle out to 600m or something... I can't remember the longest range we shot, but it was at least 600m... Are your eyes not able to use iron sights? 2.) They also regularly install optics that co-witness with the front sight and shoot through both. Some of those optics are magnified. But you have to teach yourself to look through an image with a ghost of the front sight in the picture. Something like this can be used:



It's a 3X magnifier on a flip mount.if you need the irons clear and clean with minimal glass in between, you flip this to the side and use the irons, or irons with dot in between. If you are at the range and need more magnification, lower the rear iron sight and flip the mag into line with your dot. Away you go

Now, you need to remember why the military teaches the 6'oclock hold. Irons and dots can get big and cover the target. So they teach holding the actual target ON, not in front of, the front sight. So for you, you put the bull on top of the front sight post. It should sit there like the setting sun just touching the horizon.

You can have the red dot center bull and the front sight post at 6 o'clock. That means the dot floats just above the post. It will take care and work to get everything adjusted to this arrangement, but it's certainly doable. I suspect that is what you need/want. But no matter how you set it up, you need to teach yourself to use the sights as the military does, not as most scope hunters do ...

I own a Vortex Spitfire 2 red/green dot sight at x1 magnification and am able to shoot fairly accurately out to about 150 yards or so. I love the sight too as I can use my iron sights as well and the color and brightness of the dot is adjustable.

The TRS-25 has pretty good clarity and is very durable. It's a great deal for the price.

By my measurements it is about 0.63" from top of rail to the dot. Absolute co-witness for an AR runs about 36mm (1.417") and lower 1/3 co-witness runs about 42mm (1.654").

Burris' own riser is 1.024" by my mesurements giving you about exactly lower 1/3. Just about any 1" riser will work. A 20mm (0.787") riser will get you to absolute co-witness. A common 0.83" riser will get you close.

Mike

Great to have working numbers to make this easier - thanks

So, I need something that I could use at 100 yds (no fun shooting a rifle at pistol distances) yet usable for the quick target acquisition at short range. I have a 3x-9x scope on kids' .22 and I don't think it would be good for the near range.

Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

I have not been able to look through or use one, but it is pretty darn compelling.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa1-6x24...618978387606450873759306240002243119616349716

I do have an original Burris XTR 1x4 and it cost more than twice this price and the illumnation is not daylight visible. But I love that scope regardless.

3~9, 2~7 - anything in that range is good

As for a scope...I suggest you look at a 1-6 X scope. At low power you can shoot with both eyes open. Dial power up for the longer shots. I've shot better than expected with a set up like this (mine is 1.5-4.5 power) and even hit a 4" plate set at 220 yds. Not really a feat to brag about...I just surprised my self. Any way, look at the scopes with a low power setting, before you spend money. And have fun!

Mark

Hardtarget said:

As for a scope...I suggest you look at a 1-6 X scope. Any way, look at the scopes with a low power setting, before you spend money. And have fun!

Click to expand...

Uhhhh.....he already got one

Uhhhh....missed that .

Mark