another odd question

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I guess I just am not seeing the point, since the shorter dust cover is the only difference in the frames... I was mostly doing it to see how mine would look two-toned, since I had a black government and stainless commander. Sticking around to see if I can learn something new.
 
Has anyone fitted a 1911 Gov't Model slide to a Commander frame?

Welding an extension on the dust cover is not difficult. Making the weld disappear might be.

I guess I just am not seeing the point, since the shorter dust cover is the only difference in the frames...

Not so. The abutment where the recoil spring guide seats is cut back .100" beyond the Gov't model. The frame rails are correspondingly shorter. That is not an insurmountable issue, but it is there to deal with.
 
Has anyone fitted a 1911 Gov't Model slide to a Commander frame?

Welding an extension on the dust cover is not difficult. Making the weld disappear might be.

I guess I just am not seeing the point, since the shorter dust cover is the only difference in the frames...

Not so. The abutment where the recoil spring guide seats is cut back .100" beyond the Gov't model. The frame rails are correspondingly shorter. That is not an insurmountable issue, but it is there to deal with.
 
Has anyone fitted a 1911 Gov't Model slide to a Commander frame?

Welding an extension on the dust cover is not difficult. Making the weld disappear might be.

I guess I just am not seeing the point, since the shorter dust cover is the only difference in the frames...

Not so. The abutment where the recoil spring guide seats is cut back .100" beyond the Gov't model. The frame rails are correspondingly shorter. That is not an insurmountable issue, but it is there to deal with.
 
The precise interest would be using a LW Commander pattern frame. The Gov't. slide and barrel assembly is 1.5 oz. heavier
than the Commander-the Commander frame is 5-6 oz. lighter than the Gov't. I've been working with a Ruger 1911 LWC pattern in .45 ACP, having some issues with magazines and feeding, including extractor matters. There is no need to reply to tell me to use good mags and where to look to find out how to tuneify the extractor. These are already part of the circus. It's my feeling that the short slide and light frame cause greater muzzle flip, causing marginal magazines to experience confusion and dismay. Ammunition with greater than standard recoil seems to amplify this problem. Specifically, Federal HST 230 +P pretty reliably induces a stoppage when the mag is mostly empty. I'll be working with ball duplicate handloads and Remington Golden Saber 230 standard velocity to verify reliability.
 
Welding on an aluminum frame is going to be difficult to pull off, even for a pro welder. The alloy used in 1911 frames does not lend itself to welding, although it has been done. If you do decide to go that way chose an experience pro with lots of references like Pullman Arms in Worchester, MA. http://pullmanarms.com/ If they can't do it then best to forget about it.
Better solution is to buy a full sized aluminum frame to build on.
 
You want to put a GM slide on your Commander receiver in an effort to improve reliability, right?
OK, don't worry about the gap, just put it together and see if it shoots. If it fixes your problems, then you can figure out how to close the gap.
You will have to change the ejector.
 
I’m not trying to tell you that I think a new slide is a bad idea. It’s your gun, but:

Have you looked at firing pin stops with less radius and heavier mainspring weights as part of your circus?
Another thought might be a heavier full length guide rod and possibly a shock buff.
Or possibly have a rail put on the dust cover and hang a TLR 1 on it.
If you really need to tame that thing, port it.

Just some random thoughts.
 
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