Identifying marks to indicate Enfield Service use

Not where it was sent, per se, but there should be arsenal stamps on either side of the grip tang to indicate when and if it was ever reconditioned. I'm pretty sure they put armorers marks on the underside of the stock too, just aft of the bayonet lug- but of course those are long gone on your gun.

Being a '44, your gun may very well have served in Europe, the South Pacific, and/or Korea- and anywhere else the British army went up until the mid '50s when the L1A1 took over.

"18.5 Tronsper" is undoubtedly "18.5 Tons per" and there is likely a " (square) " " following. Chamber pressure in the British format of long tons per square inch in an axial pressure test gun.

The "LAND" is probably the visible remnant of the word "ENGLAND" which was the required marking of national origin when the gun was imported into the U.S.

"...2.222" and .303 stamp..." The BNP(Birmingham Nitro Proof. Sometimes known as British Nitro Proof.) stamps have nothing to do with "sold from service". Those are required on any milsurp sold through England. The 'LAND' very likely is the remains of 'ENGLAND'. That was required by the U.S.
The " (square) "." might have been 'Sq In' too. Or just 18.5 TONS.
"... if it was made in '44..." Nothing to do with the year it was made. It's just the code for the Birmingham Small Arms plant that made it. There was an M47A and B too.
"...about its service use..." Those records were local unit records only and were not kept. You might see a broad arrow with letters denoting a country though. NZ for New Zealand. A 'C' for Canada. Australia didn't use the No. 4. Neither did India. South Africa used Long Branch and Brit rifles.
In any case, as with any Lee-Enfield, but especially a "sporterised" one, check the headspace before shooting. The bolt should close completely on the Go headspace gauge(rentable Stateside for reasonable money. Wouldn't buy 'em myself, but you can do that if you want.), but not on a No-Go. If it closes on the No-Go try a Field. If it closes completely on the Field, the headspace is excessive and you need another bolt head. Look on the locking lug for a number(none is really bad), should be a 0 - 3. Fixing bad headspace requires going up a number at about $30 each, until the bolt doesn't close on the No-Go. However, if the number is a 3, despite having seen on-line rumours of there being a 4, the barrel needs removing and the chamber set back by a smithy who knows how. Only issue is a lack of available bolt head numbers.
And slug the barrel. Barrels can measure between .311" and .315" and be considered ok. Issue is that commercial ammo comes with either .311" or .312" bullets. Larger diameter cast bullets come from Montana Bullets.

If you are really interested on those markings, get Ian Skennerton's book. The other that is quite a bit cheaper is Stratton's book on the No. 4.
The Enfield subforum on milsurps.com is quite good as well as gunboards if Alan deEnfield checks in.

For the record, the no.4's 0 to 3 bolt heads must be properly fitted to a bolt or you can actually worsen things--you cannot just screw them on-Peter Laidler on milsurps enfield has a sticky that explains exactly how to do it. A common problem is a bolt that overclocks (the bolt head swivels in a range--if it swivels beyond that range, then the bolt head threads are bearing the firing pressure which usually results in a headspace issue in short order). See this posting and survey by Alan DeEnfield on this from gunboards.com

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?318777-No4-Bolt-Head-Survey-and-Instructions

As you can see from the survey, the bolt heads themselves are not consistent in length, some no 2 bolt heads may be shorter than a no. 1 from another maker and so on. 3's are now pretty much gone, 2's are very pricey if you can find them, and most available are 0's(unmarked) and 1's.