I just purchased a Stevens 5100 shotgun from a local gun store. It’s in beautiful shape, but the triggers will not fire either firing pin. The gun locks up very nicely and the wood is in very nice shape. I bought it basically as a nice parts gun. I messed with the safety on and off , But did not make any difference. What should I look for and what is this a symptom of? I bought it pretty cheap but I would like to try to fix it. Thank you for your help.
Help with Stevens 5100
- Thread starter mopar92
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expat_alaska
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Hope this helps. Long ago I had a Fox Sterlingworth 20 gauge but only disassembled it as far as removing the fore end and barrels from the frame.
Good luck, sir!
Jim
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-Ste...-Shotgun-Owners-Manual-Handbook-/201553698922
https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/stevens-5100-double-barrel-i-need-help.28320/
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?310347-Stevens-Model-5100-SxS-shotgun-disassembly
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/savstevspgfld/shotguns-sav/5100
Good luck, sir!
Jim
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-Ste...-Shotgun-Owners-Manual-Handbook-/201553698922
https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/stevens-5100-double-barrel-i-need-help.28320/
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?310347-Stevens-Model-5100-SxS-shotgun-disassembly
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/savstevspgfld/shotguns-sav/5100
I took the barrels off and the stock off. I manually cocked the hammers and the safety and hammers drop as normal. Something about putting the forestock on makes it where it opens a few thousands but it’s locked shut. Wonder what’s going on at the hinge point ?
expat_alaska
Member
Do the barrels have extractors or ejectors?
How does it behave with the fore end removed and the barrels locked in battery?
How does it behave with the fore end removed and the barrels locked in battery?
It has extractors. I will say this. After messing with it. The hammers operate with the triggers and the safety works as it should. The forearm snaps into place nice. It just won’t open with the guard snapped in place. Everything was oily and all. It’s just as if the pin with the spring is bound or something. Breaking it open does not cock the hammers. And you can’t break it open with the forestock on it. I could break it open at the gun store. But the screws were loose on the forestock. Also the forestock has a countersunk screw and the metal piece that holds the stock over center spring has countersunk machine work. Is the nut countersunk from the inside ? Nothing looks hacked, and it all snaps together nice and tight ughh. Thanks.
Deus Machina
Member
If you get it opening and it doesn't cock the hammers, I can only think that means their catch point or the sears are worn. The barrel doesn't push the lever down quit as far as you can from the outside. If you cocked them from the inside of the receiver, check that the lever under the barrel moves--a stout screwdriver as a lever is how I did so.
Addressing it locked shut, the front iron on the forestock holds the lever that activates the extractor. Take the forestock off and see if the little lever moves freely. Try working the extractors to see if there's anything binding that. If the cocking lever doesn't move, that would cause this too. Or, possibly, a terribly peened pivot or horribly mismatched front iron.
My first thought would be a frozen extractor. Either rusted or with something in the channel.
Keep in mind this is from fixing my dad's, not with one in front of me, and if it's really a 5100 and not a 311, it's pre-WWII. Plenty of time for a screw to break off or something to rust shut.
On the plus side, there's not a thing in it that can't be fixed with penetrating oil or a punch and visit to Numrich.
Addressing it locked shut, the front iron on the forestock holds the lever that activates the extractor. Take the forestock off and see if the little lever moves freely. Try working the extractors to see if there's anything binding that. If the cocking lever doesn't move, that would cause this too. Or, possibly, a terribly peened pivot or horribly mismatched front iron.
My first thought would be a frozen extractor. Either rusted or with something in the channel.
Keep in mind this is from fixing my dad's, not with one in front of me, and if it's really a 5100 and not a 311, it's pre-WWII. Plenty of time for a screw to break off or something to rust shut.
On the plus side, there's not a thing in it that can't be fixed with penetrating oil or a punch and visit to Numrich.
Deus Machina
Member
Unless it's one of the two holding it to the forestock itself, it sounds out of place. I don't remember dad's having any but that pair.
The ejector and that other spring loaded pin both move freely. The spring is in there and seems to move and reset with the spring tension.
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Deus Machina
Member
Hmm. Nothing obviously out of place AFAIK, but dad's mounted on with the screws the other way--through the iron into the wood from above. No threads in the iron to attach from below, and why the top is countersunk.
Try removing the screws and put the iron into place without the grip attached. If it works then, the screws are too long and binding on something.
Try removing the screws and put the iron into place without the grip attached. If it works then, the screws are too long and binding on something.
I suspect this might be the problem. This little screw is bent. I don’t know how tight it’s supposed to be. Some knob stripped the wood and came through the wood from the outside. Only one screw comes through the stock in pics. This is suspect.
I think I see the problem. The handguard piece isn’t lifting up the cocking arm. Or the finger that cocks the hammers. I believe that bent screw is preventing that little block from moving properly.
I think I see the problem. The handguard piece isn’t lifting up the cocking arm. Or the finger that cocks the hammers. I believe that bent screw is preventing that little block from moving properly.
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Deus Machina
Member
Yeah, make sure that moves freely. That is what pushes the little levers and the like into place.
If it's bent, it's just a matter of replacing it. A couple dollars, probably.
If it's bent, it's just a matter of replacing it. A couple dollars, probably.
Update. I’m in the show. Nothing I could do that would put the cocking plunger under the cocking arm. So I put a rubber band under the arm forcing it to stay up as I assembled the gun. Once assembled I cut the rubber band. Now it all works perfectly. I guess if you have to remove the barrel and forend you need a string or rubber band to hold the arm up assuring the plunger goes under the arm. Dumb but worked.
How dumb is this or what’s going on here? The cocking lever has a little spring tension down. So I’m having to hold It up with a rubber band and once the cocking plunger is below it.... I simply remove the rubber band and it functions 100%. Triggers work, it cocks it, safety works.... opens nice and easy as it should. Surely this isn’t normal for field stripping a 5100/311 style shotgun.
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