Reloading Brand new brass
- Thread starter hk940
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2bfree
Member
What brass ? rifle- trim after resizing,,Straight wall pistol,just resize and go. Revolver you can resize than trim if you must. If band new you might want to use some lube for pistol, must use for rifle.
lightman
Member
I resize, trim and do whatever procedures that I choose to the primer pockets before loading it. If it a case that I neck turn for, I do that too. But, anything I neck turn has to be turned because of being a tight neck chamber.
Legionnaire
Contributing Member
Rifle: size, trim if necessary (rarely), chamfer, uniform flash hole ... then prime and load.
Handun: size ... then prime and load.
Handun: size ... then prime and load.
It is for 221 Rem Fireball. New Nosler cases the mouths look al little rough. So I will resize first then trim,uniform primer pocket and deburr flash hole.
I do load for a tight neck 6 PPC that I do neck turn.
Thanks for the info.
It's been a long time since I have loaded brand new cases.
I do load for a tight neck 6 PPC that I do neck turn.
Thanks for the info.
It's been a long time since I have loaded brand new cases.
Grumulkin
Member
This question comes up EVERY two or three months.
For you that like to fiddle, by all means size it, chamfer it, etc. While you're doing that, I'll be loading it.
For you that like to fiddle, by all means size it, chamfer it, etc. While you're doing that, I'll be loading it.
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
I do same unless the cases have been damaged in shipping.
On once fired I size then trim because sometimes brass gets longer during sizing process
Legionnaire
Contributing Member
That was my practice until I loaded a new batch of Lapua brass using a chamber type seating die and an arbor press. I could feel significant inconsistency in neck tension. Now I resize new rifle brass.
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Toprudder
Member
I rarely buy new brass for rifle. But, I will not assume anything about the new brass. Unless you size it yourself, you have no idea what the neck tension will be unless you run it through your normal procedure. They may also need trimming (some of mine did).
For pistol brass, I used to say that I would just load and go, but I got a batch of new 44 mag brass from Starline once that I had a real problem with it sticking on the expander die. I finally had to lube it to get it to run smoothly through my press.
For pistol brass, I used to say that I would just load and go, but I got a batch of new 44 mag brass from Starline once that I had a real problem with it sticking on the expander die. I finally had to lube it to get it to run smoothly through my press.
Zaydok Allen
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Since I load on a progressive, and the resizing and decapping die is in the first station, I just resize and go.
I’m loading practice ammo so I don’t feel the need to trim with brand new brass.
I’m loading practice ammo so I don’t feel the need to trim with brand new brass.
Charlie98
Member
I don't know that I've ever had any problems with handgun brass... I've never diddled with primer pockets or the flash hole, let alone trimmed cases down. Because I've seen some banged up brass right out of the box, I do run it through the sizer on the way around the progressive merry-go-round. As part of my process, assuming it's decapped (like with new brass) I check to make sure there is a flash hole.
I don't really get all excited about new rifle brass, either. It really depends on what I'm loading... if I'm loading cast, I use an M-die anyway, so no need to even neck size first. If I'm loading jacketed, I might test a few cases in my Wilson gage, if everything looks OK, it's off to the races.
I don't really get all excited about new rifle brass, either. It really depends on what I'm loading... if I'm loading cast, I use an M-die anyway, so no need to even neck size first. If I'm loading jacketed, I might test a few cases in my Wilson gage, if everything looks OK, it's off to the races.
After looking thru the rest of the brass,they all looked good, I weighed ten and all were within three tenths of a grain.
Then I read the box (never read the directions first !) It said all cases were prepped, flash hole deburred,mouths chamfered, flash hole checked for proper centering.
This is Nosler brand brass.
Then I read the box (never read the directions first !) It said all cases were prepped, flash hole deburred,mouths chamfered, flash hole checked for proper centering.
This is Nosler brand brass.
RealGun
Member
Handguns: If a sample of new brass fits in a gauge, there is no reason to resize and then make it more difficult to expand.
As far as trimming, just measure a sample and set seat and crimp die for the average. If the lengths vary by more than .010, I would make the lot uniform +-.005. That's how I do it. It is not just how or whether the ammo works but a matter of good craft.
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Random 8
Member
On the first firing, I do run a partial size with the die backed way off. Resizing only about 1/8" of the neck and running the expander ball through to uniform any dents that may be on the case mouth. I also chamfer/debur, then load and shoot.
375supermag
Member
Hi...
With new handgun brass, I always resize it before loading. I also check each piece for a flash hole before running it through the sizing die.
I generally do not buy new rifle brass, but when I do, I follow the same procedure.
With new handgun brass, I always resize it before loading. I also check each piece for a flash hole before running it through the sizing die.
I generally do not buy new rifle brass, but when I do, I follow the same procedure.
FROGO207
Member
I treat it the same as a piece of once fired brass that is new to me. Still I do not buy much of it anyway so am not spending much time as to worry.
As of about two months ago,I will run new brass through the full length resizer and trim it afterwards.Back in January I bought an AR-10 in 308.I had 100 rounds of new Lapua brass in the shelf,and decided to dedicate it to the 10.I loaded it without doing anything to the brass,thinking that Lapua is some of the best,most consistent brass out there.I was working up a load with Varget and 178 gr Hornady ELD-X bullets.On the 8th round,the bolt didn't want to close on the cartridge.I shoved at it with the forward assist,but no go.I pulled out thinking it must have been an oddball thing,and went back to shooting.Over the next 20 rounds,4 more were just a little bit tight and didn't want to chamber.Lesson learned.I would be a little bit unhappy if that happened when I was shooting at a big buck or someone who was wanting to hurt me.
RealGun
Member
Wondering if you have a max cartridge gauge to sample your brass.
Offfhand
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With new brass I round out the necks with a dedicated neck uniformer. (Not the expander plug in a seizing die) Also trim cases to uniform length if necessary, and lightly bevel inside of case mouths. Neck uniformers I use are Sinclair, or KM, shown here.
earlthegoat2
Member
Is there not a theory out there that resizing new brass will decrease its service life?
Reason being that the resizing process begins work hardening the brass one firing earlier than otherwise not resizing and as such makes the brass that much more brittle during the first firing.
This is just something I have heard. I have watched dozens of tutorials on reloading and can say that some resize new brass and some do not.
Reason being that the resizing process begins work hardening the brass one firing earlier than otherwise not resizing and as such makes the brass that much more brittle during the first firing.
This is just something I have heard. I have watched dozens of tutorials on reloading and can say that some resize new brass and some do not.
Average Joe
Member
New brass, I just prime and load...
I was driving on the highway today doing 70mph in a 65 a guy passed me doing about 90mph, he may get there quicker but I may have a better chance of getting there. Where ever there is.
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