Suggestions for which Case Trimmer to get

I've had excellent service from a Forster Original Case Trimmer.

FWIW here's my setup; RCBS trim pro with the old style collet locking system and a power drill adapter, with a 3-way trimmer head. It recently went dull after a billion cases and RCBS sent me a fresh one no charge.

Shakycam stops and demo ends about 2:10 LOL

Harriw said:

Anybody have any suggestions on other models I should take a look at or avoid?

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If you have a drill press or a lathe the Lee is very good and very cheep way to go. I still use a Lee for 3006. I only do a hundred or so at a time, so the time is not a big deal.

Trey Veston said:

I just "won" a lightly used Forster on Ebay already set up for .308 for $50. Hopefully it's as described.

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Ebay is a great place to pick up forster trimmers and accessories. Picked up both of mine with a bunch of accessories for under $100 delivered.

I use 2 different forster trimmers and a lyman trimmer The forster's have a lot gagets that can be used with them, I mainly use them for case trimming and hollow pointing bullets. The lyman I bought new in the 80's and have trimmed enough brass with it that I'm working on my 3rd cutter head.

forrest r said:

Ebay is a great place to pick up forster trimmers and accessories. Picked up both of mine with a bunch of accessories for under $100 delivered.

I use 2 different forster trimmers and a lyman trimmer The forster's have a lot gagets that can be used with them, I mainly use them for case trimming and hollow pointing bullets. The lyman I bought new in the 80's and have trimmed enough brass with it that I'm working on my 3rd cutter head.

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It arrived and is perfect condition. Just need to go online and find an owner's manual for it now.

Ya looking on eBay there's quite a few forsters, I need to pick one up someday.

cfullgraf said:

For straight wall cases, I use a Wilson trimmer on a Sinclair International base and micrometer adjusting stem. The trimmer also works for bottleneck cartridges

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Texas10mm said:

Giraud

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Consideration about your purchase, price what it costs to trim a different caliber?

Some case trimmers require their brand of shell holder, as this will only fit that brand of trimmer. Shell holders are $7 to $8 per now.

Have tired multiple brands. Forster is the brand that I use because of cost to change calibers or add options, such as outside neck turning, etc.

Also use a cordless drill when have a high volume of case work to do.

I use both a Forster and a Lyman. They both work well. I use the Lyman more for no good reason except I don't have to get out of my chair. How is that for lazy??? Best wishes and stay healthy

My dad got one of the Lyman trimmers a few months back, believe it's the cheapest one. He got it cheap but I was shocked how crappie it was. The bore for the cutter shaft was loose, to the point I thought there was a bushing missing.

I reload a lot of different calibers. I finally bought the Girard power trimmer. It seems expensive but I would have saved a bunch of money if I would have bought it first.

Look into a Frankfort Arsenal Platinum Series case prep center. When I started doing 223 cases I needed something like this for speed. The old Lee trimmer is fine for a few cases, but becomes a drudge if you do 100. The Frankfort will only do bottle neck cases. All others I do on the Lee.

I use the Lee system for seldom-used cartridges, and I trimmed my first 1,000 round batch of .223 on a Lyman. Ouch! Never again.

I'm probably a higher-volume shooter than the OP, but I added a Dillon RT-1200 (the current version is called the RT-1500) for .223, 300BO, and .30 carbine to my progressive presses and have never looked back.

Pistol Brass needs trimming when you're reforming it from another caliber
Like 223 to 7.62x25

My trimmer is an electric Lyman.
Looks like they don't sell that model anymore

For .223 I use a WFT in a 1/2" Russian Harbor Freight Hammer drill (hammer turned off)
I Have the Hornady and like it but it was lets say tedious for large amounts of .223 brass.
I hesitated buying the WFT as I though a lot of money for a trimmer, some of the best reloading $ I have spent.
I no longer dread trimming .223 brass.
Now I don't even measure it, I just run it through the trimmer, if it needs to be trimmed, it gets trimmed, if not faster than measuring it.

I recently bought the Lyman case trim Express. Ran 1000 .223/5.56 brass through it. Worked very well for me.

I load .223, and use an RCBS trim die. Quick and easy. I have two of them for .30-06, but don't load that at present.

Whiterook808 said:

I have the Lyman Universal with the spare shaft that attaches to an electric screwdriver. It works well for me and does not require shell holders.

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Same here. Great system, simple, accurate, and fast enough for a handful here or there. I use it for oddball calibers I dont reload much of.

If you want to trim a bunch though, I think the WFT2 is the way to go. Fast enough to do batch work, Ive done 1000s of pieces on mine. Can buy different inserts for different calibers. Price is reasonable.

If you want a really good trimmer and want to spend the money, the Giraud is still the best for precision work. I trim anything I want to shoot that needs absolute accuracy on this.

Ill be adding a Dillon trimmer this fall when I process 223 and 308 for bulk loading just to cut my labor time so I can decapp, size and trim in a single pass.

1KPerDay said:

FWIW here's my setup; RCBS trim pro with the old style collet locking system and a power drill adapter, with a 3-way trimmer head. It recently went dull after a billion cases and RCBS sent me a fresh one no charge.

Shakycam stops and demo ends about 2:10 LOL

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Excellent system as well, and was my second choice behind the Giraud.

Harriw said:

Hey folks,

GW Staar, that is one slick setup.... I must admit I'm looking forward to blatantly copying it if you dont mind I even have a foot-activated power switch sitting around (rescued from a dumpster at work):waiting for such a project to come along

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Be my guest! Good luck with it......don't get scared by the high tech case ejection system! The support wire with the spring in it is important to counter the weight of the screwgun.....without that it won't be smooth running. Of course if I was a machinist like jmorris, I would have made the lift mechanism out of steel and used ball bearings....but I'm only a glorified carpenter/building designer.

going to use the WCT on once fired brass and then use an RCBS x die after that to cut down on trimming

Harriw said:

AH! thanks for the tip! The video doesn't zoom out far enough to show the support wire - I assume that's suspending (or taking some of the weight of) the screw-gun from above then? Looks like the PVC keeps the screw-gun's shaft more-or-less aligned? I do love the ejection system... I thought I saw you mention somewhere-or-other that it's piano wire? I'm thinking maybe a thin piece of spring steel might do the trick (no piano wire on hand - I fear most of my wire options don't have enough memory to remain effective). Your upper hand is lifting the screw-gun (attached to the cutter shaft) and working the trigger I'm assuming?

Thanks again for posting it!

-Bill H

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Last question first: My right hand pushes the momentary switch, my left hand places and ejects the brass. I'm on a stool and my two feet push down, which lifts the screwgun/Forster shaft up so I can place the next case. The weighted pulley takes over and lowers it automatically.

In the video the reason my right hand moves upward is just to rest it on screw gun....that gives me a better feel for when it's done cutting....just the weight of my arm also applies just a little more weight too and seems to speed it up.

I came up with this because I couldn't face having to hold each piece of brass tight while a cutter on a Giraud tries to twist it out of my hand. I've already had one carpel tunnel operation....I just can't use that kind of tool. The Forster clamps it tight....and the File handle from Home Depot makes it easy and quick to clamp.

Pictures below illustrate the "Y" wire support better....notice the red arrows: one "Y" fastens under an upper shelf, one "Y" fastens to the wood base, and the other "Y" fastens to the back of the PVC elbow. The spring keeps it taunt.

Hobby Shop with Radio Control Airplane stuff is where I get the wire....including the "ejector." It's way easier to fabricate than most other options.