Lee FCD 223

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Waterboy3313

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Just curious about the Lee FCD die for 223. I've been reloading straight wall pistol cartridges with out one just fine. I just started loading .223 a few months ago and my die set came with one. I am using these rounds in an AR platform for testing my reloads.

I've noticed my reloads are hitting right and stacking up. I shoot from a bipod and a bag. If I copy this with factory ammo I can run a 10 round group in a dime or nickel sized group. I'm starting to wonder if it's the Lee FCD causing this. Maybe I'm crimping too tight? Should I even be crimping at all? I always thought crimping was for semi auto only so I do it. I'm half tempted to try not crimping and see what happens.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
When I started doing 223 most everyone said no crimp necessary. I also have FCD but never used it and haven't had any problems
 
I use the Lee FCD on my .223/5.56 loads to be fired in our AR’s, but I use a pretty mild crimp. I don’t crimp my loads to be used in our bolt action .223 rifles, since most of them are lighter bullets and hardly any bullets we load have cannelures.
 
No crimp is needed on .223, even in an auto, if you have enough neck tension. For blasting ammo with 55 Gr FMJ and a cannelure I like a light crimp, but do not crimp for any other .223 ammo.

Try it without the FCD and see how it shoots, that will answer your question on the accuracy. If it still shoots poorly, pick a better bullet.
 
. . . my reloads are hitting right and stacking up.
I can't tell if that's good or bad. . .

Crimping might occasionally add consistency by increasing starting pressure a little, but only in those cases where the consistency is more benefit than the damage you're doing to the bullet. I almost never crimp for any semi rifle, including Garands.
 
The only cartridges I use a Lee Factory Crimp die on are cartridges with very heavy recoil like the 375 H&H Magnum, the 378 Weatherby Magnum, the 460 S&W Magnum, etc. It's not needed on 223, 308, etc.
 
If you are loading bullets to the canalure the fcd does a nice crimp. I only use it in a semi platform, and only when the canalure lines up. The tool has way more than enough power to deform the bullet if you overdo it. It's the best option unless you trim exactly the same every load cycle. I never use it in bolt guns, but I'm single feeding longer than Sami loads.
 
I have many Lee FCD for pistol calibers, but none for rifle. FCDs work great if every cartridge is the same exact length to apply the same level of crimp.
 
I'm using LC brass, Hornady 55 gr soft point #2266. OAL is 2.195 loaded to the cannelure. I'm shooting these through a Wylde 24" heavy stainless barrel.

I used a case I previously shot through the same rifle and used a neck sizing die to slightly resize the case enough to hold a bullet. I seated that bullet so that it would barely fit in the magazine and then carefully chambered it and ejected it. I measured the OAL 2.532 I then loaded 5 rounds at 2.230 that I haven't had a chance to try yet. Hoping maybe not having to jump so far would correct my issue.
 
I'm using LC brass, Hornady 55 gr soft point #2266. OAL is 2.195 loaded to the cannelure. I'm shooting these through a Wylde 24" heavy stainless barrel.

I used a case I previously shot through the same rifle and used a neck sizing die to slightly resize the case enough to hold a bullet. I seated that bullet so that it would barely fit in the magazine and then carefully chambered it and ejected it. I measured the OAL 2.532 I then loaded 5 rounds at 2.230 that I haven't had a chance to try yet. Hoping maybe not having to jump so far would correct my issue.
Your still jumping 300 thou. Your best option imo is to find and shoot a very jump tolerant bullet. The Bob's bullets tested by JRB were cheap had good jump tolerance and had an ojive shape that was wide reducing jump.
 
I found out the the Wylde chamber I had did not shoot light/short bullet well. No matter what bullet/powder/primer combo I used. If it's lighter than 60 gr it did not shoot well in my gun, >1.5moa at best. I eventually shot out the barrel trying to find a load it likes. Never did. Will not buy another Wydle chamber if it want it to shoot light bullets. Step up to the 69gr and it's sub moa barrel.
 
I'm using LC brass, Hornady 55 gr soft point #2266. OAL is 2.195 loaded to the cannelure. I'm shooting these through a Wylde 24" heavy stainless barrel.

I used a case I previously shot through the same rifle and used a neck sizing die to slightly resize the case enough to hold a bullet. I seated that bullet so that it would barely fit in the magazine and then carefully chambered it and ejected it. I measured the OAL 2.532 I then loaded 5 rounds at 2.230 that I haven't had a chance to try yet. Hoping maybe not having to jump so far would correct my issue.

I have one with a Stag Varminter 24" stainless bull barrel 1:8 but is 5.56 chamber, not 223 Wylde. Anyway, I shoot a lot of that same #2266 bullet and i use light FCD with it since the bullet has cannelure. However, if I'm loading a V-Max #22271 or similar I use no crimp. Tried both ways and no FCD at all was better with no cannelure. But with the #2266 I see no difference on target with or without light FCD so may as well apply it.
 
I have some frontier .223 that uses 55gr Hornady bullets and it works great. 62gr 5.56 green tips work great. I suspect it is something I am doing. In my opinion I think it's the Lee FCD or possibly me overdoing it.
 
I use the FCD on 223, 6.5 Grendel, 30-06 for the Garands, 357mag and 44mag. Trimming the brass to the same length is necessary, I do a very light crimp, almost can't see it but noticeable when pressing against the bench, I've seen some rounds that were over crimped at the range. I've had a bullet set back in a Garand when I didn't use the FCD. I like being able to seat the bullet in one operation and crimping in another.
 
All my .223/5.56 cases are trimmed. I think my problem may be over crimping. I've been too busy and it's been way to hot to be in the garage at the reloading benxh. I'm going to look at what I've loaded and some factory stuff and see if I can tell if I've over crimped and maybe load another 5 rounds in crimped and maybe 5 more with a minimal crimp and see what happens.

The .223/5.56 Lee FCD is a little different animal than my pistol dies I crimp with. I think it's my problem and I just need to rule it out.
 
Waterboy, do the bullets you are using have a cannelure or not?

When I set my Lee fcd i use a bullet with no cannelure and take one of the rounds I crimped and pull the bullet. I then look to see if there is a ring in the bullet shank where the brass was crimped. If this is the case I know I crimped too much. I will back off on the adjustment until I see the brass getting slightly crimped while leaving no visible Mark on the projectile. I do this for 69gr sierra matchkings I run through my AR. I have ran that same crimped ammo through my bolt gun and haven't lost any accuracy from the load. Consistently getting 5 round groups under .68" at 100 yrs from bags through the bolt gun.
 
I did some testing with 223 to determine if I needed a crimp or not, and to see if crimping had any effect. I loaded up several dummy rounds with mixed brass and manually cycled them many times to see if there was any change in OAL. There wasn’t, so crimp was not necessary. Then I loaded up some rounds with no crimp, light crimp, and heavy crimp. The standard deviations and group sizes were significantly better with no crimp. So, in my case, I don’t crimp for my precision loads. I do apply a light crimp for cheap plinking ammo.

I will say that if you use Varget, you will never need to worry about bullet setback. All the Varget loads I worked up were compressed, and the only reason to crimp would be to hold the bullet in the case against the pressure. :)
 
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