BE86 corrosive?

Status
Not open for further replies.

KYregular

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2018
Messages
760
I did a YouTube video on BE86 and a load I developed and a guys replied as below. Never heard any of this. Has anyone else had issues like this?
Screenshot_20200911-005242_YouTube.jpg
 
Yeah...I'm gonna have to go with a no on that one. As it looks like you replied, all powders carry the risk of damaging plastic powder hoppers if they are left in there too long. As for his velocity being off, I would lean more towards he either has a scale that is off, or his powder thrower was set improperly and not throwing what he thought it was.
 
Yeah...I'm gonna have to go with a no on that one. As it looks like you replied, all powders carry the risk of damaging plastic powder hoppers if they are left in there too long. As for his velocity being off, I would lean more towards he either has a scale that is off, or his powder thrower was set improperly and not throwing what he thought it was.
Or, he is chucking out as many as he can on a progressive without checking powder weight occasionally. BE86 to me seems to be right between power pistol and unique, which are both outstanding powders, though pp is loud and smokey, it can be very accurate. BE86 when I have tested tends to be less sensitive in accuracy and SD if your off a tenth one way or the other between loads. I run it with RMR 135 matchwinners and love it.
 
He's all wet. When I started the BE86 thread in the reloading hall of fame above, I talked to Paul from Alliant Powder and he told me that they were supplying BE86 to ammo maker for about 10 years before they released it to us as canister grade powder.
If there was something wrong with it, it would have surfaced in that period.
 
It's the nitric acid in the nitroglycerin that leaches out, probably based on ambient humidity levels. As was pointed out, ANY double-base powder can have this same effect. Which is one reason NOT to leave powder in your hopper over night.

Early Hornady LNL hoppers were extremely susceptible....
XDiaUSV.jpg
 
And yet double based powders are widely sold at retail level in plastic containers now, instead of the metal containers previously used, which *should be* far more sensitive to acid attack such as from free nitric acid.

Suppose it's dependent on the type of plastic? Like the powder hoppers being a different type of plastic than retail sale containers of double based powders?

Ever see what a little gasoline can do to a Styrofoam cup, regardless of whether the gasoline poured in the cup comes from a metal or plastic container, such as for yard equipment?
 
Rick Taylor has been "reloading 35+ years" and is completely ignorant of this well-known issue? Interesting.

Hopefully, now he Gets It, thanks to KYregular, et alia. :)

======
EDIT:

Just so that there is no mistake, I do not intend my comments as a Put Down of Rick Taylor in any way.

Heck, I have been reloading for 52 years and I periodically discover bits of "well-known" reloading information/lore of which I was ignorant ... and 'round here 'most all of the folks are nice and happy to help.

Just one more reason why I like this Forum & THR so much. :)
 
Last edited:
I had a double base powder rot out the cheap acrylic hopper on a Redding powder measure.

The type of plastic does matter. Obviously the black HDPE that powder is packaged in is resistant. And whatever Dillon uses has discolored but not etched even though I seldom empty their measures.
Uniquetek offers polycarbonate hoppers that they say "will not stain or discolor from extended contact with most gunpowders." Most. They say not to leave Titegroup in it.

The glass hoppers of post #12 are a fix; I got the glassblower at my agency to cut me a piece of large glass tubing which I used as a liner in the hopper of my old CH Autochamp so powder only contacted glass or metal.

In my opinion, anybody who sells a powder measure that will be attacked by smokeless powder is selling a defective product. Warnings to empty the measure are just to keep you from finding out it is junk.
 
Lee has the only powder hopper that resists damage from double base pistol powders.
They obviously use better plastic.

They just changed it. They were selling the red acrylic-looking hoppers. Maybe they were polycarbonate. Now they started selling clear hoppers that look like polyethylene. Powder cannisters are also HDPE.

I have not had powder damage a Lee hopper, new or old. I have seen a double-base powder (BE-86) mark the powder coating on my Lee press stand. I think the powder coating is some kind of polyester. Some grains of powder stained it after being on there a few hours.
 
Who is Rick Taylor and why are we concerned about not ridiculing him?
The fellow mentioned in the OP. I do not think that anyone here actually knows him.

I did not like that my initial response might be taken as mean-spirited. Just a Tone of the Thread kinda thing. ;)

I did not even look at the included vid.
 
And yet double based powders are widely sold at retail level in plastic containers now, instead of the metal containers previously used, which *should be* far more sensitive to acid attack such as from free nitric acid.

Suppose it's dependent on the type of plastic? Like the powder hoppers being a different type of plastic than retail sale containers of double based powders?

Ever see what a little gasoline can do to a Styrofoam cup, regardless of whether the gasoline poured in the cup comes from a metal or plastic container, such as for yard equipment?
Lol, yeah when I was a kid if filled a styro cup with gas, instant glue.
 
Another satisfied BE-86 user. I never leave powder in a powder dispenser hopper past the time I'm done reloading and never overnight. I need to do that to prevent any question as to what power is in the measure, even though I strictly follow the 1 powder on the bench at a time rule. I have a process, and I follow it religiously. I've used BE-86 in a number of different powder measures with no ill effect.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top