Loading .223 with WC-844 & 55 GR FMJ

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five.five-six

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Working up a load for 55 FMJ's with WC844. I have procured 16 pounds lot # 041120

Rifle 20" RRA NM A2 HBAR
Chrono labradar
Projectiles are bulk 55 grain FMJ cannelure boat tail
Brass unfired Norma .223
Primer CCI 41
OAL 2.26
Crimp Lee factory

Starting charge 24.4


I read, it's just like H355 but nothing like it... I look up H355 in Lymans 47 and modern reloading 2nd, respectively for H355 55 FMJ's:

Start 23.0gn 2,617 FPS Max 26.5gn 2,967 FPS no pressure given
Start 23.0gn 2,940 FPS Max 25.3gn 3,203 FPS 52144 PSI

Modern reloading does have OAL listed at 2.200 which explained the massive pressure and Lymans puts OAL at 2.260, which I'm using.

All this is moot because this is NOT H355

Also, this is not canister grade powder so my results will only apply to lot# 041120
 
I read, it's just like H355 but nothing like it...
Hmmm ... OK.

Well, it is very close to being its canister-version-sibling H335.

As I am sure you have read, just be safe and begin your test loads a bit lighter than listed for H335 until you can determine the Lot#041120 delta and then proceed accordingly.

Enjoy! :)
 
I would seat to the 2.200" vs 2.260" which will give you more neck tension. I don't crimp any of my AR ammo. If you want setup your OAL so it crimps into the cannelure, then you want damage the bullet.

I don't crimp for my 24" BBL target AR, for that gun i'm loading Hornday 2278's .010 off the lands which don't even fit in the magazine.

these are for both the 20" A2 and a 12" M4...and bullet setback from a misfeed is a very real thing. we'll see if it works well in both. Not real fond of the potential pressure spikes from 2.200 either. 52,144 PSI is a whole lot of yikes!
 
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Hmmm ... OK.

Well, it is very close to being its canister-version-sibling H335.

As I am sure you have read, just be safe and begin your test loads a bit lighter than listed for H335 until you can determine the Lot#041120 delta and then proceed accordingly.

Enjoy! :)

Probably should have started there instead of 7 sets from 24.4 to 25.6... oh well, it's just more shooting :D

I actually lodged on just to ask how high you guys thought I should load.

I'll just shoot what I made until I start seeing pressure signs or since I'm not smart enough to calculate a delta, I'll just apply a linear offset to the 26.6 if it doesn't show signs of overpressure.



In actuality, this is the method I want to use. I'm only making 4 rounds per charge instead of one because I'm still getting used to the labradar and don't trust myself with it on .22 cal projectiles indoors just yet. I think I need to pay better attention to aiming the labradar.


 
I am assuming the OP isn't shooting long range, and I would suggest that bulk 55 Gr FMJ aren't good enough to waste time doing ladder tests etc.

Work up a safe load that shoots decent and have fun. Cheap bullets, plus cheap powder, makes for cheap fun. not precision.
 
I am assuming the OP isn't shooting long range, and I would suggest that bulk 55 Gr FMJ aren't good enough to waste time doing ladder tests etc.

Work up a safe load that shoots decent and have fun. Cheap bullets, plus cheap powder, makes for cheap fun. not precision.

Actually what I'm doing is practicing the ladder test. I know I'll make mistakes but then I can apply what I learn to .308, .300WM and eventually I want to build a 6.5 dasher tube gun. 1,600M is a 3 hr round trip for me. I can literally chronograph 20 rounds at my indoor range and be back home looking at the data in 35 minutes. I timed myself yesterday. learning on 10 cent bullets, 20 cent brass and a 3 minute drive is my idea here.


What's odd is that each string, the finished cartridges weigh +/- 0.0 grains on my electronic scale but +/- 0.2 in the beam scale. Lets see if that translates into STD DIV and ES. I think maybe I need to send the electronic back to Dillon or just buy a better one.
 


Buy once cry once? I’ll have to read more about them but the Dillon doesn’t seem to get it for me. I’ve had it quite some time now and I really trust the beam more. The speed is great but.... the on button is wearing out...
 
Buy once cry once? I’ll have to read more about them but the Dillon doesn’t seem to get it for me. I’ve had it quite some time now and I really trust the beam more. The speed is great but.... the on button is wearing out...

I’ve been saving my pennies for one of these for no other reason than I want one...

https://www.turban-cnc.de/prazipress

One of the two is going to have to wait. Probably the scale.
 
Sweet! But the press makes little difference unless they are misaligned somehow.

I won aggregates in registered Benchrest matches using my little Partner press. I eventually bought a "nicer" press, but I didn't shoot any better.

That is one awesome looking press though. :)
 

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Sweet! But the press makes little difference unless they are misaligned somehow.

I won aggregates in registered Benchrest matches using my little Partner press. I eventually bought a "nicer" press, but I didn't shoot any better.

That is one awesome looking press though. :)


Like I said, I want it for no other reason than I want it. My rock chucker older than dirt and looks worse for than a drunk after a 10 day bender but with my skill level, I’d probably never see the difference in my groups.


I use my rockchucker for a gazillion things and was looking into a CO-AX just because of all the onesie-twosey tasks I preform like pull 3 projectiles then de-capping 100 something else for wet tumble, then work up a load for another caliber and it just seems like I spend a lot of time changing shell holders and setting up dies and the CO-AX would be more efficient. Anyways, I happened upon that press while researching the Forster and just fell in love with it for no apparent reason.

I only have room for 3 presses and I need the 2 progressives for production. I don’t think the Forster is precise enough for what I want to do. I’m considering giving up my grinder or bench vice for space so I can have the Forster and the Präzipress... the heavy 120 is the one I like :D
 

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I saw the RCBS powder measure stand you have, which is one of the uses I have for my rockchucker (it would just slide in the Forster) I noticed a micrometer knob, is that an add-on to the standard RCBS powder measure (that I already have) or is it a whole different unit?
It's a Redding measure on an RCBS stand. I have a BR-30 and a 10X.
 
The loads I worked up with WC844, with 55fmj bulk bullets, seated to 2.230", gave accuracy nodes at 24.0gn and 26.6gn. ~2500 fps and 2850fps, respectively. No pressure signs. It appeared to be slightly slower burning than the batch of H335 I tried.
 
The loads I worked up with WC844, with 55fmj bulk bullets, seated to 2.230", gave accuracy nodes at 24.0gn and 26.6gn. ~2500 fps and 2850fps, respectively. No pressure signs. It appeared to be slightly slower burning than the batch of H335 I tried.
Talk about thread drift. :) We took a left turn somewhere.

View attachment 943775


Range opens in a couple hrs. I’ll send some pills downrange and report back.


I almost went on Sunday but to heck with that.
 
Well, went to the range and couldn’t get the LabRadar to give consistent readings. Actually, it wasn’t capturing the bullet about 90% of the time. I spoke wit LabRadar and we think it’s the plastic bench between the stall walls what the LabRadar is siting on vibrating every time I take a shot which the LabRadar won’t tolerate. I need to come up wit a workaround

It worked flawlessly on a .357 sig load I’m working on, but not on .223
 
Also, this is not canister grade powder so my results will only apply to lot# 041120

Canister grade propellants can vary as much as 10% lot to lot, not that they do all the time, just they could and be deemed acceptable. Lot numbers are important, no matter the container.
 
Canister grade propellants can vary as much as 10% lot to lot, not that they do all the time, just they could and be deemed acceptable. Lot numbers are important, no matter the container.


Let me ask you this, because I don’t know. Both my 8#’ers have the same lot number printed on the bottle... I would imagine it wise to make a few starting loads of each and chronograph them when I finish up my first jug... printing errors? Had a bunch of jugs with that number on it already? Trust none?
 
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