How to clean a PISTOL after shooting corrosive ammo?

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Well... I'm not trying to be difficult, and I'm sorry if that is the way it's coming across. I'm just trying to make sure I have all this correct..
No problem. ;)

The thing about cleaning firearms is that there is no one way that's absolutely without exception THE one and only right way. Everybody tries different things until they find methods that work for them for various situations, and for them, that way is the right way, and that's the way they're going to recommend to anyone that asks. So just take everything you're told, evaluate it for your situation, use the methods and products that seem right to you, and see how it turns out. Nobody's going to live or die if what they did doesn't work out for the best. They'll just re-evaluate and try something different next time. Everybody here has given you recommendations based on their own experiences and results and nobody's experiences covers all the possible bases, including yours. So just go ahead, pick the advice that seems best to you, and give it a shot. Frankly, the differences are minor and your gun isn't going to turn into a brick of rust between one cleaning and the next if you make a mistake and pick the worst possible advice. Just be observant and see how it's going and make adjustments along the way if need be.

Your original suggestion for the moose milk does have water in it, but the water is in suspension in the Ballistol, so you get the benefit of the salt-dissolving action of the water along with the dispersing and protection of the Ballistol. Kind of like magic, I suppose. So, like I said above, IMO your original idea is just fine and should work well enough. I would recommend you use the compressed air to blow out the excess moose milk because Ballistol does tend to collect particles and turn then into gunk.

Let us know how it turns out for you, so we get some feedback, and maybe in the future tune our own methods to better experiences, results, and advice. :thumbup:

Regards,
Tim
 
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I ASSUME the gases and corrosive salts aren't migrating down that channel.

Don't. They are. Follow the protocols. Hot water with Dawn detergent, scrub it, rinse with HOT water, shake it off, blow dry with whatever source you have availabel (air compressor, canned air, hair dryer), then oil the heck out of it. Better too much and have to wipe off the excess that drips out than not enough.
 
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I came across this article posted by one of my milsurp dealers on cleaning rifles shot with corrosive ammo:

https://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm

Here! ^^^ This is how I was told to clean my Mosin Nagants after using corrosive primed ammo, way back when. I have done it this way ever since with no rusting or pitting at all. As for semi auto actions if you want to I would use the same as advised above, except use the ammonia mixture in the article then a compressor with a vented nozzle followed by lube and blow it out too. When you blow out the action be very thorough.
 
If they are submersed in boiling water twice the bubbling action disolves and removes the salts. Taking a gun that is 212* out of boiling water will allow any water inside to evaporate completly before it cools enough for you to be able to handle it. Then soak it with spray gun oil. No rust, no problem other than oil dripping out of it for a couple days if you protect it well.
 
....Taking a gun that is 212* out of boiling water will allow any water inside to evaporate completly before it cools enough for you to be able to handle it.....
Unless the gun's metal is an alloy or stainless steel, or unless it has a coating such as Cerakote, rust starts forming immediately in the presence of water and air. I've degreased guns by washing in hot water & Simple Green, then blew off the excess with compressed air, and then stuck them in the oven to dry ... but less than 15 minutes later they were covered with red iron oxide. If it was me, I'd spray the gun with WD-40 immediately after removing it from the water. No water, no rust.
 
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