Loosening LOCKTITE

Heat usually works

Soldering iron on the screws should heat the locktite enough to loosen it up

Firmly, with a round/flat punch, give the screw a whack and then add heat.

Above has it right.

Sometimes cold (freezer) also works as the metals likely are different enough to shrink at a tiny different amount, but I would do the above first.

Oh, and make sure you have gunsmith screwdrivers which fit the screw correctly. Don't have to spend a ton but a hardware store screwdriver will strip much sooner as it is beveled rather than flat on the sides.

tickfarm said:

I have a scope base monted on a pistol someone used locktite on and I can't get the screws loose. A Ideas on how to loosen them without tearing something up?

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As has been said, heat works. I'm curious though, how do you know they used Loctite if you haven't got the screws out yet? I mean, you're supposed to use it for scope mount screws but you can't tell just from looking once they're in. Might try some penetrating oil along with the heat.

Good advice above, the only thing I can add is to use purple Loctite if you're using thread locker on small screws.

Good hollow ground drivers/bits do help.

While one normally does not need heat to break blue or purple loctite loose, it definitely helps. When I mention blue loctite, I am talking about the stuff designed for 1/4" or smaller screws.

Yes the best methods have been mentioned. Let it soak with some penetrating oil and heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

And as others have said, a good set of hollow ground screw drivers/bits is the best. Make sure the screw driver/bit is the same width as the slot. If the screws are Torx or hex, use a good quality torx bit or Allen wrench.

Thanks for all the information!

I use blue locktite. Never had issues with it coming loose on its own and never had a problem getting screws out. As others mentioned heat will help

From the manufacturer:

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us...ghts/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker.html

I use a soldering gun tip shaped (various styles) to match the head of the fastener. A video I made to illustrate the method and time to melt solder on an 8-32 screw; takes a little longer when there is heat transfer that must occur to adjacent fastener fitting. I avoid using open flame as it often will discolor / ruin adjacent finishes e.g. blueing. The blue land red loctite degrades ~ 480 - 500 F degrees. Also find it handy to use a magnet to hold small screws to apply some adhesives, especially types that require a little cure time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7eeegps8tzm32n/IMG_8357.MOV?dl=0

1) A good screwdriver, and you might need to grind one to fit the slot.
2) A soldering iron, on the screw head, to soften the LocTite.

bearcreek said:

.... I'm curious though, how do you know they used Loctite if you haven't got the screws out yet? I mean, you're supposed to use it for scope mount screws but you can't tell just from looking once they're in. Might try some penetrating oil along with the heat.

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Good observation and question from @bearcreek - time to step back and first assume it's a frozen screw and work off that assumption before assuming it's Loctite?

(The only real difference in technique anyway is the use of penetrating oil - but that's an important difference if it's not Loctite.)

I use a heat gun in the shop. I detest Loctite on scope mount screws. It is very seldom necessary or desirable.

Bill Jacobs
Bolt&Barrel Gunsmithing, LLC

A decent heat gun should work to loosen the Loctite. If that doesn't work you may need to use a soldering iron to add more direct heat. This is usually the case if they used way too much or a stronger grade than they should have. I was repairing a shotgun magazine tube awhile back that had red loctite keeping it in the receiver. That was some colorful cussing.

FWIW, most of the time I use purple (222) Loctite on scope screws instead of blue. By far easier to deal with when you want to make a change.

MOST Loctite the average person uses can be loosened with an application of heat.

There are two ways of doing this best for this type of application: Use a soldering iron with the tip on the head of the screw. Use a hair dryer set on high. The soldering iron will apply a more direct, and limited, amount of heat without heating the surrounding parts.

When you're done and you've cleaned the existing Loctite from the threads, if you wish to use Loctite again then I recommend using Purple Loctite (Loctite 222, a low strength locking compound for tiny/small screws like what jewelers screwdrivers would be used on), or at most Blue Loctite (Loctite 242, a medium strength locking compound for small screws normally fastened with standard hand tools) . Do NOT use Red Loctite or any other Loctite.

I say "any other Loctite" because Loctite comes in many strengths and purposes. Some of the Loctite might as well be JB Weld or superglue for all practical purposes. (In fact, Loctite does make superglue, but that's not intended to be used as a locking compound).

So...use Purple only. If you need something a bit stronger, then use Blue. But that's it. The idea is to use the lowest strength required to avoid exactly the problem you're encountering now.