The first step was admitting we had a problem.

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Walkalong said:
See every powder charge you seat a bullet over.
Click to expand...

This!!!!

The OP needs to be checking each case for an appropriate powder charge.

If loading on a single stage press and using a loading block for charging cases, check the powder charge in each case to make sure it is about the same level as the others.

If loading on a turret or progressive, have some method of checking the powder level in each case after the powder measure. This can be a visual check or one of several powder cop dies on the market. This will verify the powder charge is throwing approximately the correct charge.

If you get a jam/stoppage, remove all cases around the powder measure from the press to make sure you do not send a case empty of powder to the bullet seating station.

The best system is to never assume powder is in the case. Check, then check again, and finally verify that the appropriate powder charge has been charged to the case.

Squiibs are not something to be taken lightly.
 
I had 2 squibs from the same batch, but i feel it was due to my FA scale walking while trying to do too large of a batch at once. I now have a more reliable and accurate scale along with me weighing every one. I dont trust my FA powder measure enough to not check every throw after all the problems I've had with their other stuff. I have a small LED light on my press that allows me to see the charge in the case, which helps too. Haven't had any issues since I got my Ohaus though..
 
Bfh_auto said:
You need to check your process.
Make sure you aren't getting powder bridging in your measure. (This shows up as a lite charge followed by a heavy one).

If you aren't getting bridging. Then your powder charge choice is suspect. What cartridge, powder and bullet are you using? Starting charges of ball powder has given me squibs.
Click to expand...
That’s making me feel a little bit better. Since the dies and powder dispenser are on a turret, and everything goes in a set sequence, I couldn’t see how it was possible to “forget” to charge a case. If you don’t charge the case, the turret does not advance.

But this bridging you mention, plus:

Im getting the squibs worst on 32acp and 380acp.

32acp 1.9 Unique 71g rn coated lead

380acp 3.4 Unique 98g rn lead
 
cfullgraf said:
This!!!!

The OP needs to be checking each case for an appropriate powder charge.

If loading on a single stage press and using a loading block for charging cases, check the powder charge in each case to make sure it is about the same level as the others.

If loading on a turret or progressive, have some method of checking the powder level in each case after the powder measure. This can be a visual check or one of several powder cop dies on the market. This will verify the powder charge is throwing approximately the correct charge.

If you get a jam/stoppage, remove all cases around the powder measure from the press to make sure you do not send a case empty of powder to the bullet seating station.

The best system is to never assume powder is in the case. Check, then check again, and finally verify that the appropriate powder charge has been charged to the case.

Squiibs are not something to be taken lightly.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this advice. I will add a step to the sequence: look inside the case, in between the powder stroke and the bullet seating stroke.

People are saying that the powder dispenser could mismeasure a small charge (such as 1.9 grains) enough to cause a squib.

Also, I’ve been going for maximum speed with fewest steps. Saying “Woo hoo, I’m up over 200 rounds an hour!” That is probably part of the problem.

Just thinking about adding the one step of looking inside each case has my inner Speed Demon saying, “too slow!”
 
OP’ moniker would suggest he’s shooting 44’s. He didn’t list or I haven’t seen his caliber powder charge or bullets.
I’ll go by my own experience with large straight wall pistol cases and fast burning powders and light bullets.
I tried 200 grain bullets designed for the 45ACP, that is no crimping groove in a 45Colt. Lots of “squib” type firings with lots of unburned powder. Tipping the barrel straight up and tapping the butt just before firing helped but accuracy was still erratic. Finally gave up on the bullets and that fast burning powder and went to a 200 grain with a crimping groove and a slower powder.

I’m guessing a light charge of fast burning powder in a big case like the 44’s would give erratic results also . I load for the 44’s too and while not as picky as the 45’s still require a powder charge that fills much of the case and a heavy roll crimp on the bullet.
Unique is good in the 44’s but for my own use TrailBoss is best.
 
whughett said:
OP’ moniker would suggest he’s shooting 44’s. He didn’t list or I haven’t seen his caliber powder charge or bullets.
I’ll go by my own experience with large straight wall pistol cases and fast burning powders and light bullets.
I tried 200 grain bullets designed for the 45ACP, that is no crimping groove in a 45Colt. Lots of “squib” type firings with lots of unburned powder. Tipping the barrel straight up and tapping the butt just before firing helped but accuracy was still erratic. Finally gave up on the bullets and that fast burning powder and went to a 200 grain with a crimping groove and a slower powder.

I’m guessing a light charge of fast burning powder in a big case like the 44’s would give erratic results also . I load for the 44’s too and while not as picky as the 45’s still require a powder charge that fills much of the case and a heavy roll crimp on the bullet.
Unique is good in the 44’s but for my own use TrailBoss is best.
Click to expand...
Most of the squibs are on 32 and 380, but 44sp has been an issue too.

I’ve been loading 44sp with Unique and Titegroup down as low as they will go, for shooting through a chopped Bulldog. Smoky brass and choking Bulldogs.
 
The very first time I had a squib I changed my procedure. So now when I dump the powder, I inspect then seat the bullet when I load on a SS. On AP I use a powder cop.
 
pairof44sp said:
Most of the squibs are on 32 and 380, but 44sp has been an issue too.

I’ve been loading 44sp with Unique and Titegroup down as low as they will go, for shooting through a chopped Bulldog. Smoky brass and choking Bulldogs.
Click to expand...
Can you list each cartridge, bullet weight, powder, and powder charge?
One other question. Did you clean your measure before using it?
My Hornady had a large amount of preservative in it and didn't work well until I cleaned it with alcohol and used a dryer sheet to wipe it down.
 
pairof44sp said:
That’s making me feel a little bit better. Since the dies and powder dispenser are on a turret, and everything goes in a set sequence, I couldn’t see how it was possible to “forget” to charge a case. If you don’t charge the case, the turret does not advance.

But this bridging you mention, plus:

Im getting the squibs worst on 32acp and 380acp.

32acp 1.9 Unique 71g rn coated lead

380acp 3.4 Unique 98g rn lead
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with Unique. But if it's shaped anyway like Titegroup, you may have powder bridging, not dropping a full charge. I had problems with Titegroup when the charges got below 4 gr. That was with using the Lee Auto-disk. Using the drum style, I don't run into that problem now. Though I still check each case for powder.

Admittedly, I've had 3 squibs, 2 of them with Titegroup. The other was letting myself be distracted in single stage loading and bypassing a powder charge.
 
pairof44sp said:
Also, I’ve been going for maximum speed with fewest steps. Saying “Woo hoo, I’m up over 200 rounds an hour!” That is probably part of the problem.

Just thinking about adding the one step of looking inside each case has my inner Speed Demon saying, “too slow!”
Click to expand...
OP, Speed Demon and reloading may not be mutually beneficial. You should change your process and look into every case, every time. Yes, that adds extra time to your loading. But, it will likely spot the light or no powder loads. And conversely it will indicate the potential overcharges from a bridged powder.

Another thing is that some powder measures don't do well at the lower charge levels with some powders.
 
Never had a squid--did have a M1 carbine blow from a foreign cartridge----I felt the wind as the slide came past my face & landed 30' away.Never found the bolt. The stock was not broken or cracked---WE NEVER FIGGERED HOW THAT HAPPENED??
 
For the OP, What press are you using??

A sure fire way to eliminate squibs is to use a single stage press and a loading block. Charge each case, then put on your glasses and use a flashlight and check EVERY case!. Then put a bullet in each one and seat /crimp. The time spent sure beats removing 50% squibs from a barrel!!:what:

When I started reloading I batch loaded with a single stage. I still find it more therapeutic then a Progressive or a LCT. Prefer the LCT over my LnL AP

Slow but effective!
 
32acp 1.9 Unique 71g rn coated lead

380acp 3.4 Unique 98g rn lead
Click to expand...

Lots of people like Unique, it works well in lots of things, however it is not known for metering well thru powder measures.
In something with a larger charge (assuming you are not at the limit) being .1 or .2 gr off probably wont make a big difference.
But the smaller the charge gets the higher the % of total charge if you are off by say .2gr.
Never loaded .32acp but I do .380. When throwing small charges you want something that meters well and IMO Unique isn't it.

AA#2 meters great (best metering powder I have used) and works well in .380,, but I don't know how it is in .32, my guess would be it would work there as well.
Western lists loads for it in .32 ACP.
Now is not a good time to try finding powder but for those two I would sure try something else.
If I was using Unique to load .32 or .380 I would plan on weighing every charge.....


Neat pictures of powder here
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=184

(select powder with drop down)
You can't tell how a powder will meter by it's picture, but odds are the smaller the pieces (ball,rod,flake) the better it will meter.
In general ball or flattened ball powders meter better than rods/flakes/discs.
AA#2 is small balls.

Edit:
Here is Unique
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=122
 
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HOWARD J said:
Never had a squid--did have a M1 carbine blow from a foreign cartridge----I felt the wind as the slide came past my face & landed 30' away.Never found the bolt. The stock was not broken or cracked---WE NEVER FIGGERED HOW THAT HAPPENED??
Click to expand...
I've had bullets zing overhead. But never had gun parts fly by my face. Glad nobody was harmed.
 
Dudedog said:
Lots of people like Unique, it works well in lots of things, however it is not known for metering well thru powder measures.
Click to expand...
Indeed. Anything lower than about 3.8 grains I get inconsistent throws with Unique. I bet @pairof44sp this is a key part of your problem. The real problem is you're not visually checking powder charges before placing the bullet, which is Reloading 101. Please fix your process before you hurt yourself or others.
 
pairof44sp said:
Thank you for this advice. I will add a step to the sequence: look inside the case, in between the powder stroke and the bullet seating stroke.

People are saying that the powder dispenser could mismeasure a small charge (such as 1.9 grains) enough to cause a squib.

Also, I’ve been going for maximum speed with fewest steps. Saying “Woo hoo, I’m up over 200 rounds an hour!” That is probably part of the problem.

Just thinking about adding the one step of looking inside each case has my inner Speed Demon saying, “too slow!”
Click to expand...
I've got a Lee Classic Turret press and I use it single stage to decap and resize a few hundred at a time. Next session I seat primers single stage and put them in the loading blocks. Next session I drop powder, visually inspect the case for powder before seating, seat and crimp. I weigh every tenth powder drop on the scale. It simplifies the actual loading operation and makes me less prone to a mistake. BTW, I'm a new reloader. I used to think my Auto drum varied a little when I weighed it on the scale. Recently I noticed if I don't center the powder in the pan when I empty the case it will measure slightly over or under depending on it's position in the pan. If your squibs are caused by no powder you've got to change your procedure. Speed isn't worth the risk of possibly firing another round into the squib or a double charge.
 
I had one squib load, and I checked the powder!!!

I even weighed the charge, just forgot to put it back in the case!

My fatal flaw was when I weighed the 10th or so round after that and had a double charge sitting on the scale, I didn’t halt what I was going and throw the entire lot out if I couldn’t figure it out by weighing em.

But I’ll never make that mistake again.
 
I 'discovered' bridging with TBoss when using the OEM baffle in my Hornady drop. Didn't help matters any that I was already on the low end of the charge weight. :( (Powder-puff 38 spl loads)

'That one didn't sound right,,,,' means stop and check it out. I always have or can find something that lets me physically check the barrel for any obstruction before continuing on.

True story;

Had a funny sounding one at the Range in a 223. My heart sank when the rod hit a solid object in the bore. Knew for sure I had a squib,,,,,

Pulled the rod out and laid it against the barrel to see how far down the obstruction was.

Felt a little silly when I discovered the rod was going all the way down the barrel and hitting the bolt face. (Doh!)
 
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