What do I need to know about reloading for an AR15?

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DynoDan1

DynoDan1

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Just bought my 1st AR. I've been reloading for my .308 bolt action rifles and handguns but I think an AR15 is a whole different animal.
I don't currently have anything of any sort to reload 5.56/.223 other than a press, powder scale and stuff I use to reload for the above mentioned guns.
Any and all info would be much appreciated.
The AR is a Stag-15 W-0011595/ STAG 15001119 M4
20211107_170623[1].jpg
 
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In general, you use the same process to load for an AR-15. A few things to look for...

Use a powder that is gas-operated friendly... which for the -15 isn't that big of a deal. H335, BL-C(2), TAC, anything in that burn range should work well enough.

Look at the twist of your barrel. Generally speaking 1:7 twist is for heavier (62grn+) bullets, and may or may not handle 55grn bullets well (my Colt H-Bar, for example, does not like anything 55grn.)

Do not expect tack driving accuracy from most generic FMJ bullets; if you load for accuracy, spend the money on the bullets.

Primers... make sure they are seated at or slightly below flush with the case head.
 
Good looking beast there! 223 is just a scaled down in dimention 308. Not a lot different than loading for a 308 other than if you can to use MIL SPEC primers like CCI # 41 to prevent slamfires. I have used SRP for mine but always am extra careful when charging the rifle that it is pointed in a safe direction. So far have had no slamfires. The same goes for any bottle necked cartridge like reaming crimped primer pockets on mil brass, trimming as needed, checking for case head separation, and the like. The twist rate will make a difference. I have Mini 14's that have 1:10 twist rates and need 55 grain bullets to be accurate. I have AR's that have 1:7 twist and like 65-75 grain bullets much better. For the 55 grainers I like Tac the best, the heavier ones I still am experimenting with but like 3031 and H 335 as well.
Good points by Charlie 98.
 
Be sure to full length size, I do it to fit my Wilson case gauge, but you can move the shoulder .003 and be fine. Always check fired cases for signs of the dreaded internal rut before using them again, but proper sizing will pretty much eliminate that. Make sure you have good neck tension
 
Not much, but:
-size for interference free chambering, likely by running to cam-over in a FL die.
-trim, but do so with a measured chamber mouth datum in mind. There's no need to trim every time unless you're trimming for the fun of it.
-ensure primers are seated below flush. Don't waste your money on CCI41s.
-set COAL to comfortably (0.020") under magazine length, and then check with a plunk test
-maintain good neck tension, and don't bother crimping
 
entropy said:
<flame suit on> I recommend small base dies; this assures interference free chambering. FL work 99.999% of the time. The only time a small base sized round of mine failed to chamber was when the previous round had left it's neck in the chamber.
Click to expand...

Yes, if you have not already purchased dies, get a small base sizing die. It just is a bit of insurance against chambering problems especially if you use cases from an unknown origin.

I have not experienced any down side from using small base sizing dies.

I do not crimp my ammunition loaded for semi-auto rifles. You do need to have sufficient neck tension and crimping will not fix insufficient neck tension.
 
I have tight match chamber in my AR's and I have never used a SB die for sizing. If your dealing with Mil spec brass you will probably need to trim as well as remove the crimp primer pocket.

My preferred powder is TAC or CFE-223 for light 55gr plinking ammo. Like said earlier the twist rate on your barrel will dictate which bullet weight it likes.
 
WOW!!!
Lotsa info here!
Okay so to provide more info about the rifle and my inexperience with AR's
It has a 1:7 twist
16" barrel.
I guess I got lucky and bought/ordered a bunch of 5.56 ammo in the 62 gr. green tip. That will work?
I also bought 8#'s of Accurate 2460 awhile back. According to my Speer/Hornady/Lyman reloading manuals it should work okay (I hope!).
I'd rather not sell my other kidney for different bullets/powder again. I hear dialysis sucks!!
I currently use RCBS dies for my .308 bolt action rifles and my handguns.
I have no idea what a small base die is other than...it has a small base? Why should I get one with a small base? What do you guys recommend?
Neck tension? How the heck do I do that? Why? Again, any recommendations?
I have a single stage Hornady Lock-n Load press and haven't the money or the space to buy a turret press.
I'm retired so I got nuthin' but time. I'm never in a hurry except to go target shooting!!
 
I got a L.E. Wilson case trimmer, guess I need to get a 5.56/.223 case doodad to trim 'em.
I have a chamber checking thingamajig for my .308's, guess I should get one for 5.56/.223?
Oh, I'll need a shell holder too, right?
Guess I might as well pick up a bullet puller collet for 5.56/.223. I often have to pull bullets for my .308's because I'm an idiot!
What else do you guys suggest?
 
I'm pretty much an accuracy nut, especially with my .308's.
I know an AR is not going to shoot as accurately as a bolt action rifle but I'd like to know what it takes to make an AR as accurate as possible as far as possible.
I've been told The AR I got is a decent one.
What kind of performance should I expect in it's stock configuration?
I'm strictly a target shooter.
 
AA2460 is a great .223 powder in an AR. My 1/7" twist AR's seem to like the 62gr & up bullets. Looks like these guys gave you plenty of good information/advice!
 
Before all this pandemic crazy stuff and shortage of components, it was at a period that it was cheaper to buy 9mm and 223/556 than to reload them (even using older priced stuff!
Well almost enough to not bother reloading those calibers.

Now it is nuts again,

Anyway, it's not real difference than your 308 and many ARs are extremely accurate.
You really do not need to load "service" loads (the high test stuff!)
 
DynoDan1 said:
WOW!!!
Lotsa info here!
Okay so to provide more info about the rifle and my inexperience with AR's
It has a 1:7 twist
16" barrel.
I guess I got lucky and bought/ordered a bunch of 5.56 ammo in the 62 gr. green tip. That will work?
It will work but it will not be the most accurate you can shoot.

I also bought 8#'s of Accurate 2460 awhile back. According to my Speer/Hornady/Lyman reloading manuals it should work okay (I hope!).
I'd rather not sell my other kidney for different bullets/powder again. I hear dialysis sucks!!
I currently use RCBS dies for my .308 bolt action rifles and my handguns.
I have no idea what a small base die is other than...it has a small base? Why should I get one with a small base? What do you guys recommend?

I use std dies, no SB. I have never needed them. And all my guns have tight match chambers. I would recommend using RCBS std dies. Those that use small base only because their std dies were unable to get the results they needed. A lot of times these are Lee dies, which has the greatest variations in tolerance. Some work some don't, luck of the draw. Now if your working with mil spec brass that has been shot in a MG, it takes a lot of work to size them. The only sure way is to anneal them first, then they size easily. MG brass has been stretched an additional 0.0015"+ over a std AR.

Neck tension? How the heck do I do that? Why? Again, any recommendations?

Neck tension is normally around 0.002"-0.003" for a simi auto, I run mine all the way to 0.004" since I do not crimp. Neck tension is controlled by the expander button when the brass is pulled back through. Most all are factory set at 0.002"-0.003". This can be increased by turning down the expander button.

I have a single stage Hornady Lock-n Load press and haven't the money or the space to buy a turret press.
I'm retired so I got nuthin' but time. I'm never in a hurry except to go target shooting!!
Click to expand...

As far as accuracy out of a AR, they can be very accurate depending on the AR. You will get your best accuracy using Match Grade bullets like the 69gr SMK. Powder mostly used varies, I use Varget for my heavy pills. I've had excellent luck using TAC too.

One thing that impacts accuracy on simi-autos is that it can bend the bullet out of axis during feeding. I have a LR-10 in 6.5CM that will shoot 1/2 MOA, provided I single feed. Feeding from a magazine bends it so it will shoot 3" high and 2" right. I use a Bob Sled all the time with it.
 
Blue68f100 said:
As far as accuracy out of a AR, they can be very accurate depending on the AR. You will get your best accuracy using Match Grade bullets like the 69gr SMK. Powder mostly used varies, I use Varget for my heavy pills. I've had excellent luck using TAC too.

One thing that impacts accuracy on simi-autos is that it can bend the bullet out of axis during feeding. I have a LR-10 in 6.5CM that will shoot 1/2 MOA, provided I single feed. Feeding from a magazine bends it so it will shoot 3" high and 2" right. I use a Bob Sled all the time with it.
Click to expand...

I'd love to try some Varget but it's become unobtanium in my neck of the woods.
I just got a hydraulic sled so I'll be trying that out soon. Supposed to take the human element out of the equation.
 
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