Odd scale behavior

Clean the pivots with a q tip and alcohol. If zero is low then add a bb under the pan until you get a good zero. That's only after trying to level and set zero with the end screw.

I'm sorry, but what does that picture show again? That looks dead on to me. Shouldn't there be two pictures, where one is right and the other shows the variance?

I gotta' agree with Zahn. I can't see the problem.

That picture looks as it should. Don't see an issue.

I don't have a Hornady but when I see anomalies, I resort to reading the instructions that came with the device!

I clean and recalibrate my balance beams at least once a year. Cleaning involves the area where the beam balances on the frame. A Q-tip and alcohol does the trick. Calibration involves lead shot where the pan rests! (Google is your friend!)

Also be sure there is no chance of air flow across the scale. Upsets reading.

Smiles,

Some times the main poise doesn’t sit perfectly into the zero V groove( for whatever reason), that doesn’t mean the scale is off or isn’t capable of resolving weight or cripple repeatability. Zero the chassis as normal then zero to a check weight followed by a additional weights to ensure linearity, as long as it always confirms the check weights the zero V groove isn’t the critical part.

speedingpickle said:

I recently purchased a Hornady scale ... After charging a few cases when I recheck zero it's always off ... Roughly about 1gr ... clean the pivot points, pan, and make sure nothing's been picked up by the magnet(s) but after doing so the result is the same.

Btw, it always reads "light," never heavy

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Welcome to THR.

When zeroing a beam scale, as long as pointer is reading consistently (whether light or heavy), it is being "repeatable" and actually returning to "zero". You just need to adjust the scale body up/down to align zero mark with the pointer by turning the black knob at the bottom of the scale frame.

Step-by-step how to clean/tune/zero a beam scale - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/best-balance-scale-available.864676/#post-11415433

And I highly recommend the use of check weights in the powder charge range you are using (So if using 4.8 gr charge, use enough check weights to total 5.0 gr). Around $14, they are good insurance (If you want to check sensitivity of your scale, keep in mind 10 mg is 0.15 grain) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...issue-from-my-pov.899392/page-2#post-12157773

I also recommend the use of pin gages to verify accuracy of your calipers around $5 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265

Welcome to our wonderful hobby that's a passion for some of us.

South Prairie Jim said:

Some times the main poise doesn’t sit perfectly into the zero V groove( for whatever reason), that doesn’t mean the scale is off or isn’t capable of resolving weight or cripple repeatability. Zero the chassis as normal then zero to a check weight followed by a additional weights to ensure linearity, as long as it always confirms the check weights the zero V groove isn’t the critical part.

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See post #6!

Smiles,

Yes I saw post #6 but in contrast I don’t believe lead shot in the pan qualifies as calibration although I do on occasion adjust that weight to keep my chassis somewhat level it’s a small part of the tuning process as a whole.
Also we have the reloading library of wisdom pinned to the reload page and within is beam scales 101 thread

Keep it clean, level to zero, and use check weights. Clean and level assures repeatability; check weights assure accuracy.

Beam scales are obsolete. They're like comparing a slide rule to a calculator. My 505 has been collecting dust for 12 years.

Otto said:

Beam scales are obsolete. They're like comparing a slide rule to a calculator. My 505 has been collecting dust for 12 years.

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Obsolete maybe’ but a quality beam scale can be superior to most of todays strain gage electric scales and only until you get to next level such as A&D fx120i will you resolve to a equal level of consistency as tuned beam scale. From there you’ll need Analytical.
Im pretty sure someone will post how their $20.00 Walmart scale is better and resolves to the third power etc. but I never see them in the winners circle, interesting that the smallest 1000 yard five shot WR group was shot by Mike Wilson using a M-5 scale

Beam scales are obsolete. They're like comparing a slide rule to a calculator. My 505 has been collecting dust for 12 years.

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I agree, my Redding #1 has been collecting dust for 15 years but I'm sure not getting rid of it, obsolete or not.

Unless something weird happens to earths gravity it will always work.

a couple of ideas, first I always set the scale on the same spot on my bench, I took a sharpie and outlined it, next check airflow around it, I found when the furnace or a/c kicked in it would not repeat, so had to cover the heating vent

South Prairie Jim said:

Also we have the reloading library of wisdom pinned to the reload page and within is beam scales 101 thread

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Yup. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/beam-scale-101-a-look-at-the-tried-and-true.875760/

Are you always loading max? You might like to try loading a grain under max. This might give you some confidence in your loads.
Also I see you are loading on a wood table. Have you check the table with a level? Wood can deviate in some areas and not in others. You might be bumping the scale from time to time and not realize it. I mark where my scale feet sits. And I check that area exactly with a level. I also know some people will put a piece of paper down right where the scale sits in order to ensure it is sitting correctly flat. But I do agree the picture of the scale looks just fine to me.

Otto said:

Beam scales are obsolete. They're like comparing a slide rule to a calculator. My 505 has been collecting dust for 12 years.

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Not obsolete. Unless, as mentioned, you have access to a high end digital, not the $40 wonder digitals from Amazon, a beam is way more reliable than a electronic/digital scale.

I would also check for a level surface, I like to use a marble (base of old trophy) base that I've leveled and use a plastic surround that I made by bending a sheet of plastic with a hair dryer, I've done the same thing for my digital scales.

Good beam scale such as Redding Model 2 is accurate withing 1/10 grain. My RCBS Chargemaster lite, same thing. The Chargemaster is faster unless something screws with it (breeze, temp change, static electricity, fluorescent lights, vibration, etc.). Not much bothers my beam scales except for breezes.

HowieG said:

Good beam scale such as Redding Model 2 is accurate withing 1/10 grain. My RCBS Chargemaster lite, same thing. The Chargemaster is faster unless something screws with it (breeze, temp change, static electricity, fluorescent lights, vibration, etc.). Not much bothers my beam scales except for breezes.

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Yes. Actually, that is what I was refering to. My Ohaus 10-10 beam is from 1978[new], and hasn't been a problem since. Clean it properly when needed, check now and again with check weights; Presto, it always delivers. Always.

.45Coltguy said:

Yes. Actually, that is what I was refering to. My Ohaus 10-10 beam is from 1978[new], and hasn't been a problem since. Clean it properly when needed, check now and again with check weights; Presto, it always delivers. Always.

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That being said, even though I own seven beam scales, I don't use one. I use my ChargeMaster Lite and my RangeMaster 750. If we suffer an EMP attack, I will have a beam scale standing by.

Hopefully while the debate over electronic vs beam scales rages on the OP is reading the knowledge articles on using the beam scale he asked about.

I think the best maintenance for a beam scale is to clean the bearings of both the scale and the operator with Jim Beam.

Lots of good info posted above.
Post #15 #17 and #19 especially bring out some good ideas and commonly overlooked things.
It helps to have it sitting on a solid level surface and consistently in the same place away from any airflow.
I’ve seen some reloaders build a small “stool” with adjustable legs to level it. I’ve seen em built from a flat, heavy cutting board or a piece of granite.
FWIW, I have two ChargeMasters and a couple of old Hornady powder drops that I use for pistol and rifle plinking rounds probably 90% of the time.
However, when I sit down to build precision, long-range rifle rounds, I become OCD even to the point of that last little grain of powder.
For that, I set up a Redding 3BR powder drop to drop the coarse charge close to final weight, then ever so slightly trickle up using an oldie, but goodie, RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale that’s been cleaned, setup/leveled properly and checked against check weights to fine-tune that charge to exactly where I want it to be. BTW, this is not a “blow and go” quick effort by any means. Rather, it’s a slow, meticulous, methodical effort at getting a very consistent result to where the end product is as close to being identical as possible with the limited equipment I have at my disposal.
Yep, I enjoy it as much as I do shooting those rounds.