Reboring a 22 for a Liner - What Do I Need To Know?

Before bonding, roughen the inside of the barrel and outside of the liner to give the bonder a "tooth" to bond to.
Loctite seems to work easier since it won't start to set up quite as fast as an epoxy, and it's thinner so easier to get it together.
Clean up of the excess it also easier.
For the best bond you might look into a Loctite Primer to improve the bond.

One trick is to use a very worn or sanded down nylon bore brush to work the Loctite into the barrel before inserting the liner.
It needs to be very loose so it will coat the bore and not brush it right back put.
This may do a better job of fully coating the bore.
Plug the liner with a plastic or wood plug to prevent it from entering the liner bore.

When you insert the liner, don't hesitate, it can start to bond faster then thought and you can get stuck part way in.
That's why you should test fit before the Loctite.
Also, do a very through job of degreasing the barrel bore and liner to insure no oil that will prevent a bond.

A friend has a little Martini that was lined down from some obscure Rook cartridge to .22 by the old Parkerifling process. The liner is soldered in and is stamped Parkerrifled on the muzzle across the seam.
I have a 1939 Stoegers (reprint) with the equipment advertised and the process described. Strong adhesives like epoxy, Acraglas and Loctite make it a lot simpler.

I don't know when adhesives were first used, I vaguely recall Brownells plugging Acraglas for the job.
But as I said, Parker was offering a soldering system in 1939 and no suitable glues on the market. I don't know if they kept it after the War.

Bore the hole straight through with an extension on the liner drill, in a lathe. Do not drill it by hand, nor from each end. Start at the chamber end and go out the muzzle at 60-70 rpm, cleaning frequently and blowing off the bit and out the barrel with compressed air, use a lot of cutting oil. The drill bit guide will keep the bit centered, if the right bore diameter.

Degrease the barrel and liner when drilled, with acetone. Removing all of the oil allows Acraglass to adhere to steel so it must be ground off. Roughing is absolutely not required with Acraglass gel.

Acraglass Gel is not suceptible to heat like locktite and lead solder is, and can be hot blued with the barrel later. Mix it well with black die, you have 30-40 minutes working time, so start the liner at the chamber end about 1/4" to 1/2" bare liner, attach a vice grip to the liner back a foot or so, from the chamber, then with a hardwood block, push and twist the liner into the barrel in one direction, better to use a helper to apply the acraglass to the liner all around with a tongue depressor as you go, let the liner run out a 1/2" at the muzzle and still be sticking out from the chamber end. Let set up, for 24 hours. The liner is not coming out, except with a drill bit.

Face off both barrel ends of the barrel in a lathe, square to the bore. Then crown the muzzle with a recess target crown, matching the liner's cut inside, with the outside wall of the crown's recess. Then ream the chamber and cut rim extractor(s) grooves. Then refinish the barrel external surface, if necessary.

Done a few liners.