Brake Cleaner?

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Mainsail

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While doing a grips off cleaning of my Sig P239 I noticed a lot of grit deep in the workings. I tried to get to it with a Q-tip but that just moved it around and made it even more inaccessible. So I took a can of brake cleaner and using the straw nozzle blasted all the gunk out, and a lot came out. It worked great on my SKS so why not the Sig too? After it dried I made sure to re-oil it well.

Will this harm the aluminum frame?
 
Not to jack, but why does everyone specify 'non-chlorinated' brake cleaner?
Biker
 
Standing Wolf said:
Because chlorinated brake cleaners can wreck firearm finishes. Can you imagine using bleach on a gun?

Didn't think so.
Aha! Thanks. Sometimes the answer is too obvious.
:)
Biker
 
And you can get a big, fat can of brake cleaner a bit cheaper than 'Gun Scrubber'

Just wear safety glasses. If you get some back spray in the eyes, you'll know what I mean.:eek:
 
Just to clarify before I ruin my gun.. Yall spray it down with brake cleaner, and then just re oil it right? That sure would make it easy to get into all of the hard to reaxh spots.
 
Just to clarify before I ruin my gun.. Yall spray it down with brake cleaner, and then just re oil it right? That sure would make it easy to get into all of the hard to reaxh spots.

No, not quite. Much of the accumulated crud in a gun will be loosened and/or dissolved and run off, but there'll still be some left you'll have to remove the old-fashioned way: with elbow grease. You'll still need to scrub the bore. You'll still need to brush the face of a cylinder. You'll still need to use Q Tips and pipe cleaners here and there. Brake cleaner is an assist, not a replacement.

I've recently bought an ultrasonic cleaner. It cuts gun cleaning time by about half, but doesn't eliminate all the tedium.
 
And you can get a big, fat can of brake cleaner a bit cheaper than 'Gun Scrubber'

As far I know non-chlorinated brake cleaners are all the same, TCE (Tri-ChloroEthylene). About $2-$3 a can at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store. About half the cost of Gunscrubber. Goggles and nitrile gloves are a good idea. IIRC TCE is hazardous.
 
ACORN said:
As far I know non-chlorinated brake cleaners are all the same, TCE (Tri-ChloroEthylene). About $2-$3 a can at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store. About half the cost of Gunscrubber. Goggles and nitrile gloves are a good idea. IIRC TCE is hazardous.

You're probably right, but I've found that Prestone's is the least smelly and harsh (yes, still wear gloves).
 
The chlorinated petroleum solvents such as TCE, PCE etc. are big environmental nightmares when it comes to surface water and groundwater contamination. Many are carcinigens. I would assume that a statement that there are no chlorinated solvents indicates that these nasty's are not included in the mix.
 
Just checked mine. I got Valucraft from Autozone 5-6 weeks ago. It was on sale for $1.49 per can. It is non-chlorinated also.

Kevin
 
My company makes both for custom packagers.

The main chlorinated solvents are Carbon tetrachloride used in fire extinguishers up to the 60's, 1,1,1 Trichlorethane, new manufacturer banned under the Monteral Protocol; Perchloroethylene, used by dry cleaners; Trichlorethane, used in metal working and brake cleaners; and methylene chloride used in paint strippers.

Chlorinates do a great job. The only problem is that they deplete the ozone layer and cause cancer.

Everyone is trying to formulate their products away from them but sometimes performance suffers.
 
OK, what about electronics cleaner? It is supposed to dry quickly and leave no residue just like brake cleaner. Is it the same stuff?
 
I work in the Auto Service Industry. I have tried damn near everything that can be sprayed. Yes electronic cleaner works, not as well as brake, or carb cleaner, and costs lots more.

Kevin
 
be careful with carb cleaner

Brake cleaner does not seem (in my experience) to harm rubber or plastic parts.
Carb cleaner, on the other hand, can damage rubber or plastic.

I don't think either will harm steel or aluminum, but I would not try either on coated (S&W scandium, for example) parts.

Please wear safety glasses when using. Get either in your eyes and you will not soon forget it.
 
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